what in the name of anything decent has gasoline to do with anything medical?
The only use is to solve the residual sticky glue after a patch... In Sweden we also have a product called chemically pure gasoline.Brgds
hi guys ,
I have not encountered any issues with the bearings on my carriage .. they came sealed in a plastic enveloppe and obviously pre lubed by the factory .. probably for conserving the bearing properly . I haven't used any rinsing or cleaning solvent of any kind . just installed them , adjusting the arm construction and enjoy my vinyl collection so far .
ONE mistracking occured ( spun aprox. 100 records so far ) .. a tiny partical was obstructing the carriage movement . a matter of cleaning the rod and resume listening .
Wiring is a tricky thing with the arm however .. but works fabulous after I went to the very thin HF litze .
Paul
I have not encountered any issues with the bearings on my carriage .. they came sealed in a plastic enveloppe and obviously pre lubed by the factory .. probably for conserving the bearing properly . I haven't used any rinsing or cleaning solvent of any kind . just installed them , adjusting the arm construction and enjoy my vinyl collection so far .
ONE mistracking occured ( spun aprox. 100 records so far ) .. a tiny partical was obstructing the carriage movement . a matter of cleaning the rod and resume listening .
Wiring is a tricky thing with the arm however .. but works fabulous after I went to the very thin HF litze .
Paul
Brgds
would be a b*gger if one smoked...........
'chemically pure gasoline' must be something lost in translation.
Sealed or not, bearings must be run in first.
Brgds
more commonly known as benzene......
Indiana Jones Temple of Doom rolling boulder inspiration ... what's the matter with just two ball bearings riding in-between parallel top and bottom rails? U-channel brass was my first look.
Simple and no endless posts on choosing, cleaning and lubing bearings, etc. They might not ever roll in the same place twice.
Not sure of stiction. The angle of starting is quite low.
I'm sure there are plenty of other negative points. Stability is one and a harness would be needed to keep on track to save cart. Minor detail, though.
Zene
Simple and no endless posts on choosing, cleaning and lubing bearings, etc. They might not ever roll in the same place twice.
Not sure of stiction. The angle of starting is quite low.
I'm sure there are plenty of other negative points. Stability is one and a harness would be needed to keep on track to save cart. Minor detail, though.
Zene
If the bearings touch both the higher and lower rail simultaneous the bearings might stop or even turn backwards...
Then again you might suggest a vertical placement of the bearings?
Brgds
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Hi Zene .. did you post a picture of your arm yet ? if so , could you guide me there or mention the page where I can have a look ? THX .
Paul
Visited my favourite auto paint store for some wet/dry sanding paper. They had grits only up to 3000 (4 microns), but was good enough for a start on polishing up the old rod (channel in my case). I asked about skipping grades after I told them what I was doing. Answer was normal ... skip only if you want to spend more time getting it down to that finer grit finish. In other words, don't skip, paper is cheap.
So I got to thinking about stiction (quote from Uncle Wiki, "Polished glass is especially prone to stiction.").
One way to help with stiction problems is to roughen the surface. Hardly in our best interest in rolling along with the grooves. Answer might be to sand to a fairly rough finish and do what is not normally accepted and that is to sand the tops of the ridges to a really nice finish (not necessarily a super polish). That way the ball or bearing will start more easily and simply move over the ridges with equal or perhaps even less friction that a normal highly polished surface, but still roll and not slide. I wouldn't touch the bearing outer shell, not worth the gamble.
Zene
So I got to thinking about stiction (quote from Uncle Wiki, "Polished glass is especially prone to stiction.").
One way to help with stiction problems is to roughen the surface. Hardly in our best interest in rolling along with the grooves. Answer might be to sand to a fairly rough finish and do what is not normally accepted and that is to sand the tops of the ridges to a really nice finish (not necessarily a super polish). That way the ball or bearing will start more easily and simply move over the ridges with equal or perhaps even less friction that a normal highly polished surface, but still roll and not slide. I wouldn't touch the bearing outer shell, not worth the gamble.
Zene
Hi Zene
Remember that stiction only applies to sliding friction, not to rolling friction.
When sanding a surface for bearings to roll on, sand in the direction of bearing motion. (See my post where I mention "Lay")
As an aside, stiction also known as stick/slip, is necessary in some cases.
The bow on a violin string would not work without it.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Remember that stiction only applies to sliding friction, not to rolling friction.
When sanding a surface for bearings to roll on, sand in the direction of bearing motion. (See my post where I mention "Lay")
As an aside, stiction also known as stick/slip, is necessary in some cases.
The bow on a violin string would not work without it.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Raif ... did learn about your recommendation on Lay, thanks.
My contention is that stiction may apply as the bearing can come to a stop during play which may mean stiction could be involved in getting it moving in the opposite direction. There is no time limit two surfaces must stay static to cause stiction. A little fussy? Of course and I'm definitely not sure what happens to break away when an object is just starting to roll. Does it slide (stiction) a bit or roll immediately? I'll stand corrected on good reasoning. All I know is that two super polished surfaces where bearings are concerned is not the answer.
Zene
My contention is that stiction may apply as the bearing can come to a stop during play which may mean stiction could be involved in getting it moving in the opposite direction. There is no time limit two surfaces must stay static to cause stiction. A little fussy? Of course and I'm definitely not sure what happens to break away when an object is just starting to roll. Does it slide (stiction) a bit or roll immediately? I'll stand corrected on good reasoning. All I know is that two super polished surfaces where bearings are concerned is not the answer.
Zene
I seem to have the same idea on this .. not necessarily the whole story though . the only thing I wanna add here is to pay a LOT of attention to the precision of the bearing attachment onto the carriage .
I got plenty glass rods here , so a good idea to just get one worked with a P2500 or P3000 paper , or perhaps a polishing paste .
THX
Paul