DIY linear tonearm

Indeed I have. A few years ago I roughly calculated what the bearing offset should ideally be for a 9" arm to minimise azimuth variation based on typical levels of warp and varying record thickness.
I reckon the bearings should actually be offset the other way by about 15-20°.
Not offsetting the bearing is definitely better than being perpendicular to the offset angle.

With my style of linear arm the off set and the bearings are perpendicular which is a very minor drawback.
Of course the use of an effective warp flattening measures elleviates this problem. With a flattened record the azimuth variation is so small it is probably inaudible.
 
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this is a great thread. The idea developed and refined for almost 10 years.
from time to time I came across this thread an was always fascinated by the sinplicity and the results.
so recently I decided to build one lt arm on my own. My skills in woodworking are good but not fine enough to build so fragile structures which have to be so accurate.
I decided to do this in 3d printing.
I plyed a while with tinkercad while waiting for my anycubic vyper.
when it arrived my moddeling was more or less finished.
I did not know anything about 3d printing and had several attempts to print exactly fitting parts. boreholes had to be made some 1/100mm bigger caused by material expansion when printing.
I bought some cheap bearings in 3x9x4mm and a set of borsilicate glas drinking straws of 10mm, 250mm long.
everything worked out fine, so here are my results.
01403C2B-7AEB-475B-8AE7-6F208FE8B756.jpeg

DCBE5C5F-6C37-4012-A66A-29C07751E1D9.jpeg
AB2A7816-CE32-497D-8255-05266F160F10.jpeg
 
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the arm can be turned away by 90degree to change a record.
At first I played around with a cheap AT-F2. It never sounded so good before. Very dynamic and vivid. After no hickups for about 20 Sides I changed to my Benz Micro ACE. tracking force as given by the manufacturer. It did never skip. It is working so well.
best of all: 3d printing is so cheap that overall costs are less than 10€
 
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the armwand is of carbon fiber.
6mm outer and 4mm inner diameter.
the arm is 62mm bearing center to needle. so there is only a very short piece of carbon just to connect the headshell to the arm carriage. the weight of the printed parts are:
Headshell = 2 grms
carriage = 3.5 grms
Counterweight = 3 grms ( plus two inlets of steel each 1grm)
the bearings are about 1.2 grms
carbon wand about 4 grms.

in total the arm is 17 gramms
 
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Thanx for your video, but the camera angle doesn't show what the stylus/cantilever is doing so it isn't any help for evaluating bearing sticktion. If you could re-run the test with the camera from this viewpoint:

LinTrack.jpeg


...and with an eccentricity of just 1 or 2mm, that would be revealing. Also, a run time of more than 3 seconds please.

Ray K
 
the arm can be turned away by 90degree to change a record.
At first I played around with a cheap AT-F2. It never sounded so good before. Very dynamic and vivid. After no hickups for about 20 Sides I changed to my Benz Micro ACE. tracking force as given by the manufacturer. It did never skip. It is working so well.
best of all: 3d printing is so cheap that overall costs are less than 10€
Spassgeneral,

Building with a 3D printer is a great idea!
 
this are the specs of the Benz
  • Type: Moving Coil
  • Output Voltage: mV
  • Freq Response: 20Hz - 20kHz
  • Tracking Force: 1.8 - 2.2 g
  • Mass: 8.8 g
  • Channel Separation: 35 dB
  • Channel Balance: 0.5 dB
  • Load Impedance: 200-47k Ω
  • Output Impedance: 12 Ω
  • Stylus:
  • Stylus Tip: 6 x 40um VdH
  • Cantilever: 0.28mm Solid Boron
  • Dynamic Compliance: x 10-6cm/Dyne
I set VTF to 1.7