I just recall recently that I've read somewhere that Pass Aleph O will drive Apogee Scintilla comfortably. There is one for sale right now http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?ampstran&1102088433
Since you want to DIY and since this is a Pass Aleph amp, why don't you built this one? Schematic should be on Pass Labs web site. NP might even help you if you need help.
Since you want to DIY and since this is a Pass Aleph amp, why don't you built this one? Schematic should be on Pass Labs web site. NP might even help you if you need help.
Hi Gydotron,
You can also build a Krell clone. There was a DIY effort that was successful.
Nothing wrong with Nelson's creations either, just watch the heat dissipation for something in the 100W range. His designs are mostly class A types, or at the very least they are high dissipation.
-Chris
You can also build a Krell clone. There was a DIY effort that was successful.
Nothing wrong with Nelson's creations either, just watch the heat dissipation for something in the 100W range. His designs are mostly class A types, or at the very least they are high dissipation.
-Chris
Gydotron, maybe you could try this one. Has been built exactly for one Apogee speaker model (don't remember which model) almost two years ago, and work OK. Sorry, no PCB because my job was just to design schematic and the rest has been done by that guy. If you decide to give it a try, I could ask for PCB files?!
Attachments
Simply use OPAMP drived MOSFET power AMP !!!
U don't need high V-swing for Apogee 1ohm speakers!
It has very high V sensitivity.
What it needs is high current.
So that mass Mosfets with low Voltage can do what U want with minimum Heat disspation.
This method has been tried out on scintilla and worked very well.
U don't need high V-swing for Apogee 1ohm speakers!
It has very high V sensitivity.
What it needs is high current.
So that mass Mosfets with low Voltage can do what U want with minimum Heat disspation.
This method has been tried out on scintilla and worked very well.
Going in the same direction myself. Looking at class A design amps.Biggest problem is dissipation in the output device but as the load impedence is so low supply voltages can be kept low.Looking at water cooling manifold for the output devices unless you want to heat up your cintillas (keeping speaker leads very short is an obvious must ,no matter how fat they are).Because of the very high current involved multiple parallel output devices are required.Current gain is low pushing the problem towards the driver stages.Interested to hear comments.
Gydotron said:
If you can give up you 8 ohm goal.....
You could build the Krell KSA 100 Clone described in diyAudio.com and use a high current low voltage output power supply, keeping the driver voltages the same. +/- 8-10V output seems like a good match for 1 ohm loads. A Krell clone has a good chance of matching the tone of your production KSA 100's.
To driver lower than 1 ohm loads a super-sym topology which connects the speaker between + and - outputs stages, free from ground noise, is often used.
How about using 3 or 4thread speakerwires? Two big ones and some small one(s) for feedback, including the wires in the circuit. hmm of course the best to build two separate amps and place them near the speakers. This is a fun one, at lower voltage there is a few more options in how to build it..
Are they always 1ohm or only at higher frequencies? impedance or resistance..
Are they always 1ohm or only at higher frequencies? impedance or resistance..
mlloyd1 said:
Massive amounts of non-linear characteristics on the micro scale, where the ear is the most sensitive. Phase slurring of micro detail, meaning that macro aspects of the signal are intact, but the micro details of the signal are slurred,and this the amp has no finesse, right where the ear demands it.
The micro details are phase smeared, dislocated and changed in value, thus disconnected to the main signal..and also/or..(for making a better mental interpretation) spread over time.
Thus, to the ear the micro details are emphasized due to this 'time frame increase' in their presentation as well as the temporal dislocation with respects to main signal body temporal and level matching, and the ear hears this as being LOUDER..and the person thinks that the multi-output device amplifier is more detailed..when exactly the opposite is the truth.
This little piece of information is one of the most difficult to arrive at - and is also one of the most valuable things you can learn, understand, and employ in your DIY and professional efforts, on this entire forum.
It has the capacity to turn one's entire understanding on audio equipment design --- completely around.
mlloyd1 said:
There are many examples, both commercial (Audio Analogue Puccini is a good one) and DIY (Pass Labs is a good one) which show a night and day difference in sound quality between the single and paralleled output device versions. Take a listen to one design, where single/paralleled output devices can be compared, your ears will answer the above question instantainiously for you.
EDIT: A load like the Apoogee *might* be able to negate the above, in some cases.....
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