Peter Daniel said:
I'd say all bets are off until you open up that tunnel uou have it mounted in... if it is 3" think and the driver hole is 7" then the rear opening should be approaching 13" in diameter.
Your brace is also just holding it to the baffle and not to the rest of the structure (in this case your house.
dave
planet10 said:
The baffle itself is 12" square and it's pressure fitted between stud's frame so it could be regarded as part of the house. I still need to insert a box filled with sand on top, but somehow it was never my priority.
Though it may look like a tunnel, it doesn't feel like, besides, I did increase the opposite side dia. to 9", that all what seemed to be reasonable without compromising rigidity.
Still, tunnel or not tunnel, the sound with a bracket lost microdynamics and became "dull"
planet10 said:
The $26.15 is the price quoted to me over the phone. $39.15 for 3/4 inch. I'm sorry Dave, but you have to realize that I live in the industrial heartland of Canada, not out on the fringe like you British Columbians.
It was my intention to pick it up today after a meeting I had in the area. The meeting dragged on and didn't exactly go my way. Traffic was heavy, so I just came home. See how work can be unhealthy for a hobby?
It is, from the guy on the phone's description real baltic birch plywood. 5' x 5' sheet, lots of plys.
I'll find out for sure tomorrow. They open at 7 am, I will make a detour on my way to work and get it.
planet10 said:
$26.10 is what I paid. 9 ply baltic birch plywood.
I have just came in from my shop where I was playing with it. I have built the first enclosure for the resonance test, and had enough left over to start a small pair to replace my rear surrounds.
I will admit it's more pleasant to work with than MDF, dust is sweeter.
Here's a pic of the first box:
Attachments
The redbud are in full bloom...thunderstorms rolled across Kentucky this evening...heralding the arrival of a cold front...redbud winter...Thank God for the light show with a sound track...stirs the soul...
Dave et al,
I've given some thought to a holey baffle...have a pair roughed up...need to ask: What is the proportion of hole to solid?
Also, I'm considering the use of a ~3/16" felt to wrap the holey baffle with. I feel that since it is the first surface "seen" by the backwave that it needs some treatment. My thoughts are to roundover the holes and stop the felt short...not to constrict the holes. I ask your comments.
Baffles are glued up, sanded, ready to route the recesses. The bookmatch line will bisect the offset tweeter.
Dave et al,
I've given some thought to a holey baffle...have a pair roughed up...need to ask: What is the proportion of hole to solid?
Also, I'm considering the use of a ~3/16" felt to wrap the holey baffle with. I feel that since it is the first surface "seen" by the backwave that it needs some treatment. My thoughts are to roundover the holes and stop the felt short...not to constrict the holes. I ask your comments.
Baffles are glued up, sanded, ready to route the recesses. The bookmatch line will bisect the offset tweeter.
Ed Lafontaine said:
I'd guess 30-40% holes... sometimes hard to get that high.
Pretty much what we do... the frequencies of interest to the holes won't see the felt, the ones you want to kill so they don't reflect will be killeed more effectively in the air trap between the 2 surfaces (ie just felt the whole thing (or at least the part near the driver -- that is all we usually do)
dave
Ed Lafontaine said:
Having just finished a few of these holes myself, I can say it's pretty tedious. Not sure if rounding over the edge of the holes is beneficial.
Ed, your avatar and a few of your words suggest that you might have a scatter gun handy to make quick work of them holes
Sure would be more interesting to tell people.
Corian for front baffles, etc.
Where do you get Corian milled? Ie: so that it could be routed out for flush mounting drivers, putting a slight round over on the sides, etc. Does anyone know of a company that does Corian work for anything other than countertops? I was thinking a Corian for my front baffle. Perhaps I should just stick to using BB with veneer overtop.
Vince
MJL21193 said:
Are you refering to the steel? I would actually be interested in building a speaker from steel, but I,m not convinced the results would be any better. It's expensive, heavy and requires skills to work with that the average woodworker doesn't have (no matter how many episodes of Monster Garage you've watched.
You want stiffness, do what Wilson audio does - use Corian. Now that's something I'd like to try. I've worked with it before (counter top obviously) It glues together, and the glue joins the parts and leaves no seam. Very heavy, very strong.
Where do you get Corian milled? Ie: so that it could be routed out for flush mounting drivers, putting a slight round over on the sides, etc. Does anyone know of a company that does Corian work for anything other than countertops? I was thinking a Corian for my front baffle. Perhaps I should just stick to using BB with veneer overtop.
Vince
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