sq225917 said:
I have not done it... i have been thinking about it for years. One of my clients is giving it a go as we speak. He is building a curvy bruce out of barrel staved 1 1/2" (38mm) red cedar impregnated with polyurethane. The pieces will be soaked in a thin mixture... the way the liquid is sucked into the cedar shouls create a very complex transistion zone between no resin and lots which should create some very interesting properties.
Jonathan Carr (Lyra) suggestted in a thread on the same topic taking it a step further and laminating a sheet of fiverglass or kevlar closth to the panel.
dave
Hi SCD!
Well, there you are. The problem with todays drying technique is that wood is processed and dried in 3-4 days. This is what we get in Baumaxx, Bauhaus and what else supermarkets for DIY here in Europe. I bet the situation is not better "overthere".
If the people controlling the drying process are skilled then there are no problems. But as always, faster means more care and precision.
I had a 100 year old house in Sweden in which I knocked down a wall. It was built of two inches thick, 100 year old pine. The boards were 10 times harder than the gene manupilated, fast growing Pine that are planted in Sweden today. Of course time makes it harder but the forests are not the same today as before.
Hmm, 25 Year rings/inch. Were talking high altitude growth/climate zone 5-6?
Nice speakers you have there!
Best regards
Peter
peterbrorsson said:
I had the opportunity to help mill some fir similar to Scotts... {http://www.urbanmilling.com/}
In my case it had been logged in 190x and for some reason left to sit in the forest until the next time they clear-cut. They were in the way so they dropped them off in an ecoWoodlot right in the middle of the clear-cut. Once the outside was cut away the wood was fantastic.
Vancouver Island doesn't really have any extreme altitudes (it is thou the top of a mountai range sticking out of the pacific ocean with all the attendant fiords & such).
dave
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planet10 said:
Highest peak is not quite 2.2 km (http://www.peakbagger.com/range.aspx?rid=1203). Attached is a snapshot from Google Earth -- i expect that this peak is in the snowy part and that Scott's wood came from near where he lives which is on the cost above the snowy peaks right to the left of where the water starts opening up.
My place has the pushpin and my chunk of wood came from right across the fiord below me on the map. (probably 400-600 m elevation -- i'm at about 245m on the side of Mount Finlayson, and the fiord is called Finlayson Arm)
dave
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Hi Dave!
It does not have to be high altitude. It depends also on the climate. That's why I put / in the question.
I come from the "south" of Sweden, relatively speaking, where the pine is growing in sand soil. This is also a highland plateau. Veeryy slow growth, beautiful and easy to stain!
The South European pine is just awful if one gets lowland pine. I have seen examples in my work with 1 cm summer wood!
High altitude on a North slope is another matter.
It does not have to be high altitude. It depends also on the climate. That's why I put / in the question.
I come from the "south" of Sweden, relatively speaking, where the pine is growing in sand soil. This is also a highland plateau. Veeryy slow growth, beautiful and easy to stain!
The South European pine is just awful if one gets lowland pine. I have seen examples in my work with 1 cm summer wood!
High altitude on a North slope is another matter.
Re: building with real wood
This goes back to my original post on the subject. SCD obviously knows how to handle solid wood (nice work BTW), the beginner and even a person who believes himself good with the tools and ready for that solid pine project can fall victim to solid woods unpredictability.
SCD said:
This goes back to my original post on the subject. SCD obviously knows how to handle solid wood (nice work BTW), the beginner and even a person who believes himself good with the tools and ready for that solid pine project can fall victim to solid woods unpredictability.
MJL21193 said:
Sorry missed that post -- trying to get some work done here (phase plug install for a customer with Visaton B200s from Omega).
Those are considered gold. Especially if they are alnico. A Coral OEM. You measured parms are within experimental (and age) error.
[wuote]* a comment from the guy who bought 2 pairs "these are great speakers! I have speakers ranging from $100-3000 and these rank up there. listening with modded sonic impact..bypassed the volume pot, using a 5687 tube pre.WOW"[/quote]
Do you have the ones with the holey basket or the ovals? Did you also rescue the other drivers? The superTweeter is quite unique.
I may have some of my measures here. These are open baffle speakers, and you can get away without tweeters, but often people add a pair of thimble tweeters coaxially mounted.
http://www.timn8er.com/coral_open_baffle_project.htm
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planet10 said:
Thanks for the good news.
That's my driver in the picture, except the magnet assembly is standard ceramic puck ~ 150 grams. Also basket has oval holes.
I only have the woofers., but they are in amazing shape, no signs of distress. Cool mess dustcaps.
I was thinking OB from the measurements, any ideas on baffle size?
EDIT: Sorry didn't look at that link you posted before writing this. Baffle is a good size, not keen of a coaxial tweeter arrangement though. Screw up the image if it's mounted above?
MJL21193 said:
The specific tweeters used -- once shaped with ductseal or somesuch, become pahse plugs of a sort. Moving the tweeter above or below with a cap to XO circa 10k doesn't seem to affect imaging that much. You do want to use something that has limited dispersion to match the radiation pattern of the top of the FR.
dave
Re: building with real wood
Good morning Scott. I read your post with great interest as I always do. It is so nice that with as much hands on experience as you have and I do mean hands on, that you could tell us that all we had to do was find some old growth fir and store it in our houses for 10 years before we used it. Thanks a lot buddy, you're a genius.
I didn't laugh once while reading your post. I'm really disappointed.
Amen.
Wait... did Cal and Chris just agree on something audio? Uh-oh.
Jumbo sized bass electons need jumbo wire, you know that.
SCD said:
Good morning Scott. I read your post with great interest as I always do. It is so nice that with as much hands on experience as you have and I do mean hands on, that you could tell us that all we had to do was find some old growth fir and store it in our houses for 10 years before we used it. Thanks a lot buddy, you're a genius.
I didn't laugh once while reading your post. I'm really disappointed.
chrisb said:
Amen.
Wait... did Cal and Chris just agree on something audio? Uh-oh.
Jumbo sized bass electons need jumbo wire, you know that.
All I've got laying around here for tweeters are a pair of Seas 19TAF/D08 and a pair of Max Fidelity MF-DT4a, both 3/4" metal domes. The Max I can find no information on at all, like it doesn't exist, and I haven't even heard them yet. The Seas is very good IMO, delivers the detail I like to hear at the top end. 10K a little high to cross though? I was thinking in the 4500 to 5500 range. No coil on the woofer? How does it handle at breakup?planet10 said:
EDIT: I sound like a little kid...
454Casull said:
Are you refering to the steel? I would actually be interested in building a speaker from steel, but I,m not convinced the results would be any better. It's expensive, heavy and requires skills to work with that the average woodworker doesn't have (no matter how many episodes of Monster Garage you've watched.
).You want stiffness, do what Wilson audio does - use Corian. Now that's something I'd like to try. I've worked with it before (counter top obviously) It glues together, and the glue joins the parts and leaves no seam. Very heavy, very strong.
MJL21193 said:
All I've got laying around here for tweeters are a pair of Seas 19TAF/D08 and a pair of Max Fidelity MF-DT4a, both 3/4" metal domes. The Max I can find no information on at all, like it doesn't exist, and I haven't even heard them yet. The Seas is very good IMO, delivers the detail I like to hear at the top end. 10K a little high to cross though? I was thinking in the 4500 to 5500 range. No coil on the woofer? How does it handle at breakup?
EDIT: I sound like a little kid...
If you want to use a dome, you should waveguide load it to reduce its deispersion.
dave
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