I use quite a few wirewound resistors in my DHT filament circuits - in the regs, the cathode resistors in filament bias etc. Values between 1 and 30 ohms, and 3W to 30W.
I'm finding that vitreous enamel sound good in general.
Not keen on metal clad, ceramic, or thick film.
Wondering about silicone coated Dale HLM and CW series.....
Any favourites or recommendations?
I'm finding that vitreous enamel sound good in general.
Not keen on metal clad, ceramic, or thick film.
Wondering about silicone coated Dale HLM and CW series.....
Any favourites or recommendations?
In (Rod's) regulators I use Welwyn W24 and Mills MRA12 resistors.
As filament bias resistor I prefer Dale NH-50 (Non inductive, 50W) resistor (with large heatsink), or Welwyn W24 (if dissipation not so large).
Well, I'm in the UK and availability and prices aren't as good as in USA.
Duelund are from £16 to £32
Mundorf Supreme around £8
Mills around £4 to £6
All the above for 10W or 12W. I could maybe see the value as a cathode resistor in filament bias, since it's in the signal circuit.
Vishay-Sferenice are around £6 for the 11W ones. Not sure if that's good value.
Welwyn W24 are around £2.50 at 12W. Also vitreous enamel.
None of this is cheap! Any shootouts online?
Duelund are from £16 to £32
Mundorf Supreme around £8
Mills around £4 to £6
All the above for 10W or 12W. I could maybe see the value as a cathode resistor in filament bias, since it's in the signal circuit.
Vishay-Sferenice are around £6 for the 11W ones. Not sure if that's good value.
Welwyn W24 are around £2.50 at 12W. Also vitreous enamel.
None of this is cheap! Any shootouts online?
Yes.... resistors and Loonie Tunes.... I do take your point.
I'm not a tweaker as such - I think design is far, far more important and makes much bigger differences. But to some extent I believe in parts, and certainly the sound of tubes where DHTs have a clear advantage for me, and such things as teflon coupling caps and polypropylene PSU caps. Not too fussed about wire usually, and though transformers and resistors are basically wire, they're more than that dynamically.
I think it probably does make a difference in a cathode resistor in filament bias. When I did a shootout myself I did appear to hear differences, though not through blind testing. I had to rely on my own innate scepticism and willingness to accept that "no difference" was a very likely conclusion. I think a lot of tweakers believe they "have" to hear a difference between parts, which is a big mistake. I do listen very carefully to the same music over and over again, listening for particular small details and faithfulness of tone and timbre. I'm a musician and if I listen to acoustic instruments I have an image of instrumental timbre engraved in my head from years of playing live. It all helps, though I'd be the first to admit it isn't an exact science.
So yes, I'd like to hear more experiences of resistors from those who listen critically. I generally use affordable parts like Welwyn W21-W24, but I might spend a bit more if it seemed it was worth it.
Thanks for all the replies so far.
I'm not a tweaker as such - I think design is far, far more important and makes much bigger differences. But to some extent I believe in parts, and certainly the sound of tubes where DHTs have a clear advantage for me, and such things as teflon coupling caps and polypropylene PSU caps. Not too fussed about wire usually, and though transformers and resistors are basically wire, they're more than that dynamically.
I think it probably does make a difference in a cathode resistor in filament bias. When I did a shootout myself I did appear to hear differences, though not through blind testing. I had to rely on my own innate scepticism and willingness to accept that "no difference" was a very likely conclusion. I think a lot of tweakers believe they "have" to hear a difference between parts, which is a big mistake. I do listen very carefully to the same music over and over again, listening for particular small details and faithfulness of tone and timbre. I'm a musician and if I listen to acoustic instruments I have an image of instrumental timbre engraved in my head from years of playing live. It all helps, though I'd be the first to admit it isn't an exact science.
So yes, I'd like to hear more experiences of resistors from those who listen critically. I generally use affordable parts like Welwyn W21-W24, but I might spend a bit more if it seemed it was worth it.
Thanks for all the replies so far.
Metal films don't tend to drift like MOX or wirewound in the current set position . I use whatever low-ohm vaue Holco/Welwyn metal films I have in stock in parallel
316a
As in "pick up a couple and have a listen" at $55 each for 0.1uF?
Well, according to reviews "When playing classical music on vinyl piano's and violins now have that full-bodied warm sound as they should since they are made out of wood."........ Who could not go for that....?
Mind, I must say the reviews are extremely complimentary.
I tested a lot and prefer mundorf M-resist supreme for this position.
They are more neutral than anything I used.
For other positions in circuit I tend to use different material resistors. One great example
a resistor being noted to change the sound is grid resistor. For instance the carbon was the best whit high gm tubes and on the other hand tantalum whit 4p1l. In the end the best sound was whitout any grid stopper for 4p1l....So bottom line it all depends...!!!
They are more neutral than anything I used.
For other positions in circuit I tend to use different material resistors. One great example
a resistor being noted to change the sound is grid resistor. For instance the carbon was the best whit high gm tubes and on the other hand tantalum whit 4p1l. In the end the best sound was whitout any grid stopper for 4p1l....So bottom line it all depends...!!!
I would suggest that a cap has a greater potential for altering the sound of a circuit than a resistor in most cases. This is especially true if it is an AC coupled SE preamp, as it is the last element in the signal path. I am not suggesting that it will alter the overall character of the circuit, as this is largely determined by the active devices and operating parameters. FWiw, I have tried many caps in a coupling position, including many of the Russian teflons, and the Jupiter is my preferred choice. We will be trying a Vcap CUTF in a couling position in a RIAA stage. We are only doing this becauSe the active circuits have been settled on as a permanent keeper.
Coupling caps are certainly important. I really like the Russian teflons, specifically the FT-3. Clean and detailed does it for me. I've never liked the "warm" sound people attribute to tubes - quite wrongly in the case of DHTs. I haven't found the paper in oil caps I tried were capable of the detail of the teflons, but they were middle of the road, not top end, so it's quite possible the Jupiter Coppers are something else. I didn't use coupling caps at all for years, using LL1660 interstages, but I can see value in good plate chokes, so back to caps at the moment.
Thanks for the recommendation! I appreciate the time you've put into comparing these parts.
Thanks for the recommendation! I appreciate the time you've put into comparing these parts.
In the U.S. Soniccap has the Jupiter stuff at a bit of a discount, so we took the leap. I have a hard time spending big cash on parts, but in circuits where they play a role, it is sometimes necessary. The price of quality iron has kepte from ever even trying that route. I would prefer to take a chance on active replacements or circuits that do not need it. I will be trying an 801dht soon, so I hope you get some more suggestions for your question. I look forward to any comments you add after trying some different options.
Yes..., Caddock MP925 / MP930 with Heatsink...because very Hot... usualy i used pararel for need over 12 watt.
in my experience as Rk .. for me ,that is very good and better than wire wound.
i love it....
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