Thanks for everyones input.
I have decided that the sub will be on the desk even though there are some other good, probably better ideas that have bee put forth.
Now, the question is down firing or rear firing. For aesthetic reasons (as well as preserving the cone) I don't want to go with forward firing.
If it is rear firing, it will be very close to the wall 2-3 inches, suboptimal I'm sure, but if it is down firing it will be even closer to the desktop.
What do you think? Rear or Down?
I have decided that the sub will be on the desk even though there are some other good, probably better ideas that have bee put forth.
Now, the question is down firing or rear firing. For aesthetic reasons (as well as preserving the cone) I don't want to go with forward firing.
If it is rear firing, it will be very close to the wall 2-3 inches, suboptimal I'm sure, but if it is down firing it will be even closer to the desktop.
What do you think? Rear or Down?
4" Sub = F3 in the mid 60Hz range
5" Sub = F3 in the mid 30Hz range!
OK, OK, it goes on the floor.
Strapped to the desk it still a cool idea, just won't work for my office.
Now which sub
I'm considering TB W5-1126 SC
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w5-1126sc.htm
Goes nicely in a reasonbly small box.
Any suggestions for a better 5" Sub are welcome...
5" Sub = F3 in the mid 30Hz range!
OK, OK, it goes on the floor.
Strapped to the desk it still a cool idea, just won't work for my office.
Now which sub
I'm considering TB W5-1126 SC
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w5-1126sc.htm
Goes nicely in a reasonbly small box.
Any suggestions for a better 5" Sub are welcome...
Attachments
Hehe,Hi,
Now this thread starts to make some sense.
b
Does this look right?
TB W5-1126SC http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w5-1126sc.htm
Fs: 40Hz Qts: .38 Vas 7.95
Vb 5.95L Fb: 42.37Hz F3: 44.39Hz
Dv 2.4cm Lv: 10.89cm Pa:4.52cm (squared of course, I don't know how to make that little 2)
From: http://www.mh-audio.nl/spk_calc.asp#ported
Hi, Yes,That's the right driver I was using for the T-TQWT simulation.
Your simulation is OK but IMO, I would at least use a Dv = 3 cm dia port. This makes Lv to about 17.5 cm and the box depth should be increased to >= 20 cm.
I recommend you to recalculate the box internal volume due to the larger port including the volume occupied by the driver (> 6L in total).
I'm not the designer of your ported box, but You are. 
b
...I would at least use a Dv = 3 cm dia port. This makes Lv to about 17.5 cm and the box depth should be increased to >= 20 cm.
I recommend you to recalculate the box internal volume due to the larger port including the volume occupied by the driver (> 6L in total).
b
I had no idea how involved it would be!
Are there any online simulators where you can enter different box sizes or configurations? Thanks.
Yes. If a "shelf port" means using wood (like folding the cabinet one time) to make the port, that's what I was planning. I thought it might add extra bracing at the same time.
Thanks for the input guys. It really helps.
roadsterdriver,
There are quite a few programs to use to design enclosures:
WinISD is a good program that is very easy to use website
I prefer to use Unibox (an Excel spreadsheet). Unibox is more involved, but It gives more information as well. There are lots of places to download here is one.
There are many programs that you can find online to do this. MJK's mathCAD models will very accurately model a bass reflex enclosure along with many many other types of enclosures (most importantly TLs).website
Josh
There are quite a few programs to use to design enclosures:
WinISD is a good program that is very easy to use website
I prefer to use Unibox (an Excel spreadsheet). Unibox is more involved, but It gives more information as well. There are lots of places to download here is one.
There are many programs that you can find online to do this. MJK's mathCAD models will very accurately model a bass reflex enclosure along with many many other types of enclosures (most importantly TLs).website
Josh
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