So I'm finally making some progress. Wood is cut, odds and ends are purchased, and I'll be glueing everything up tomorrow. I ended up with 24x24x20 which I believe should give me j
Right around 4^3 ft when all is said and done. I used 19 mm MDF which looking back I probably should have gone with 22mm but live and learn.
My amp claims 350 watts into 4 ohms which considering the size of my room, should make my ears bleed. I'll see how I like it sealed and if it doesn't work for me, I'll try ported. I found a place that cut all the lumber for me, including the cutouts and when all was said and done I was only out about 40 bucks. I live in Germany and NOTHING is cheap here. I got some quotes from same cabinet makers to have them build the box and even unfinished they wanted 300 bones. A plane Jane cube out of MDF... 300 bucks!!!
I'll report back.
Right around 4^3 ft when all is said and done. I used 19 mm MDF which looking back I probably should have gone with 22mm but live and learn.
My amp claims 350 watts into 4 ohms which considering the size of my room, should make my ears bleed. I'll see how I like it sealed and if it doesn't work for me, I'll try ported. I found a place that cut all the lumber for me, including the cutouts and when all was said and done I was only out about 40 bucks. I live in Germany and NOTHING is cheap here. I got some quotes from same cabinet makers to have them build the box and even unfinished they wanted 300 bones. A plane Jane cube out of MDF... 300 bucks!!!
I'll report back.
Alright, I'm back. Sub is finished, well it's not painted, and I've been listening to it for a few days now. Some pros, some cons. Overall, very pleased with the extension and SPL. In my small room it hasn't bottomed out yet, my ONLY complaint about my little Hsu sub, and it really pressurizes the room. That being said, it is a little boomy. I was expecting some tighter bass from the sealed design.
My box is 24x24x20 and is made of 19mm MDF. I don't have any bracing or stuffing inside; big mistake? I'm sure I can easily add stuffing, bracing might be a little harder. Will that cure the boom?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
My box is 24x24x20 and is made of 19mm MDF. I don't have any bracing or stuffing inside; big mistake? I'm sure I can easily add stuffing, bracing might be a little harder. Will that cure the boom?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I would love if you could explain this a little more. What would this look like once built?
I have two of these subs in 2.2ft^3 each. I would like to make new sealed folded horn boxes that can be clamped together with a tie down belt if desired so that they cancel each others vibrations out.
kind of like this, but x2.
Funktion-One F118 MK2 18inch Subwoofer’s | Night Works Audio
Winter is almost here and I'd like to have this ready for sweaty cabin fever induced house shows.
On a side note can anyone give me their opinion of this sub with a dual spider instead of a single spider? I let other people play on my subs fairly often and they are both in need of a re-cone, would getting the dual spider cone help them take more abuse without loosing to much "crispness" or "musicality"?
A gift for your time!
Tasty new bass music. Untold - Bones (Rockwell Remix)
Untold - Bones (Rockwell Remix) - YouTube
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Alright, sounds like that will be my next project. I'm hoping to get away with not completely disassembling the box; would several 2x4s tying the walls together be an acceptable solution?
Alright back again. I've been listening to my sub for a few weeks now, haven't torn it apart to add bracing yet, but today when I went to fire it up it was dead. No pops, no smoke, no weird smells, just no juice from the amp ( not even the little indicator lights.)
I've tried the easy stuff, checked the fuses, checked for loose wires, checked for obviously damaged caps/resistors and I've got nothing. Any suggestions?
I've tried the easy stuff, checked the fuses, checked for loose wires, checked for obviously damaged caps/resistors and I've got nothing. Any suggestions?
Have you tried hooking the driver up to another amplifier to see if it makes noise?
Well this has been a good learning experience. First up the box, I built it without bracing and I believe that was a mistake. The may that I built it makes it almost impossible to add bracing after the fact.
Second mistake, the amp. I liked the idea of having the frequency/volume controls on the front of the sub with the plate amp on the back. Now that I'm there, the connection between the two inside the box makes it very difficult to remove either of them to troubleshoot. Overall, I'm not really pleased with a plate amp period. Next time, going with a pro amp. Box construction, connectivity, future upgrades/repair issues would have been much easier with an outboard amp. Commercial sub, I definitely see the value in plate amps; DIY, pro amps for me.
So after several hours taking apart my sub and trying to figure out my amp problem, with no luck, I think I'm starting over again. I got the amp used, pretty cheap, so I can't really complain; I've bought/sold a lot of gear over the years and this was my first/only lemon. I'll keep and either try and get it working or use it for parts. It's really not very serviceable as lots of the important bits and pieces are well sealed up behind the circuit boards.
So, starting over. I'm still thinking sealed, 4^3 ft, but well braced this time. I'm probably going to use one of the Behringer iNuke amps with built in DSP. My plate amp claimed 350 watts into 4 ohms and I had WAY more output than I could use (my room is small) so I don't think I need gobs of power. I'm looking for clean deep extension, not max SPL. Should this one not go my way, maybe a sonotube next time around.
That's what DIY is all about, right?
Second mistake, the amp. I liked the idea of having the frequency/volume controls on the front of the sub with the plate amp on the back. Now that I'm there, the connection between the two inside the box makes it very difficult to remove either of them to troubleshoot. Overall, I'm not really pleased with a plate amp period. Next time, going with a pro amp. Box construction, connectivity, future upgrades/repair issues would have been much easier with an outboard amp. Commercial sub, I definitely see the value in plate amps; DIY, pro amps for me.
So after several hours taking apart my sub and trying to figure out my amp problem, with no luck, I think I'm starting over again. I got the amp used, pretty cheap, so I can't really complain; I've bought/sold a lot of gear over the years and this was my first/only lemon. I'll keep and either try and get it working or use it for parts. It's really not very serviceable as lots of the important bits and pieces are well sealed up behind the circuit boards.
So, starting over. I'm still thinking sealed, 4^3 ft, but well braced this time. I'm probably going to use one of the Behringer iNuke amps with built in DSP. My plate amp claimed 350 watts into 4 ohms and I had WAY more output than I could use (my room is small) so I don't think I need gobs of power. I'm looking for clean deep extension, not max SPL. Should this one not go my way, maybe a sonotube next time around.
That's what DIY is all about, right?
Thinking maybe this one or it's bigger brother
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-iNU...3Y4W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1318669214&sr=8-6
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-iNU...3Y4W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1318669214&sr=8-6
IMO, good choice on a budget. I never did like the idea of mixing electronics with vibrations, ie "don't mount your amp on your sub box" comes to mind from my experiences in autosound. I don't care how much bracing you use, if it can get low n loud, it will vibrate. I have a pair of 15"subs in a 6.5 cu/ft @ 39hz box left over from our last system. I just put it in the corner of my living room and hit it with a Mackie 1400i......My God! it SLAMS. I had chosen the Powerbass 2XL 154D due to a 93 db spl rating and they sound 10 times better in my living room than they did in our Suburban.
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