MJL21193 said:
There are some good stamped basket drivers with no cast basket equivalent and the cost of cast basket is way more than the $2.50 for a pound of ductseal... further the aluminum baskets are not immune to needing the ductseal streatment anyway so you still have to spend the $2.50
dave
planet10 said:
I'm just having a little fun Dave. I know there are many excellent drivers with stamped steel baskets, but all things being equal, size matters. A large steel basket will "ring" lower in frequency than a small one. Also with the potential of greater amplitude, therefore more output.
Could be that the small ones (< 6 inch) damping would make no audible difference.
A little more engineering goes into an aluminum baskets design to minimise vibration problems I would think. Damping attempts on one of these might be furtile.
If you like to waste your time trying to improve something by an infinitely small amount, that's your pleasure. I prefer to devote my efforts to more meaningful exercises. In the end, if it makes you feel better, do it.
Anyhow, the majority of the drivers you use (pulled from ancient Zenith console TVs) don't have cast frames.
Another benefit to ductseal is that in covers and inhibits rust...
Once again Dave, just having some fun.
Anyhow, the majority of the drivers you use (pulled from ancient Zenith console TVs) don't have cast frames.
Another benefit to ductseal is that in covers and inhibits rust...
Once again Dave, just having some fun.
MJL21193 said:
The differnce between really good stereo and REALLY good hifi is what is happening 40 dB down -- you have to sweat the details or you are only listening to the surface. Don't knock it till you try it.
Anyhow, the majority of the drivers you use (pulled from ancient Zenith console TVs) don't have cast frames.
Let's see... what i have in my living room now,,, Fostex FE126, 2 pr FE127, stamped frames, TB & Sound of Music (rare drivers made of unobtainium -- cast baskets), Lyco LY401F, FE108eS, CSS FR125, ApexJr Super8s (all cast baskets).And a Pioneer 10" in the spare sub (stamped) . Don't get many dead TVs thru here. I do have the drivers from my dead Gao, and a pair of small ovals from a hitachi -- buried downstairs somewhere.
dave
Well I just damped the baskets of my Tang Band W3-871s in a pair of Cyburgs Needles. Posted about it in the Needles thread - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1228171#post1228171
Before damping I could flick the basket with my fingernail and produce a clearly pitched TING sound. I figure this is the sign that you should damp your basket - no speaker panel rings like that... After damping, the same flick produced a much abbreviated THAK. Nobody is flicking my drivers while they are installed and playing, but driving an oscillator at resonance being what it is, I have no trouble believing that the cone could transfer a significant amount of energy to the basket.
When it came to playing the difference was audible. The texture of the presentation became less 'glassy' and more 'velvety'. There had been a high frequency ringing smearing some detail, making a smooth and shiney sounding presentation. The system sounds more organic now.
The missing HF makes the overall presentation more dark, however. Some recordings want more HF, some want less. This resulted in my preference moving back and forth between the treated and untreated drivers, depending on the material. Either way, the treated speaker managed to retrieve more textural detail - it might want a super-tweeter now though. We'll see.
Comparisons were done OB and in the Needles.
Before damping I could flick the basket with my fingernail and produce a clearly pitched TING sound. I figure this is the sign that you should damp your basket - no speaker panel rings like that... After damping, the same flick produced a much abbreviated THAK. Nobody is flicking my drivers while they are installed and playing, but driving an oscillator at resonance being what it is, I have no trouble believing that the cone could transfer a significant amount of energy to the basket.
When it came to playing the difference was audible. The texture of the presentation became less 'glassy' and more 'velvety'. There had been a high frequency ringing smearing some detail, making a smooth and shiney sounding presentation. The system sounds more organic now.
The missing HF makes the overall presentation more dark, however. Some recordings want more HF, some want less. This resulted in my preference moving back and forth between the treated and untreated drivers, depending on the material. Either way, the treated speaker managed to retrieve more textural detail - it might want a super-tweeter now though. We'll see.
Comparisons were done OB and in the Needles.
AdamThorne said:
Not only have I deigned to construct a project with drivers obviously unfit for human ears, I also sully them with crass pop music played from compressed formats with a common computer as a source! I'm sure you'd be horrified.
That's an example of my keen sense of humor.
If you believe you have made an improvement to the overall sound quality of your speaker then your effort was well spent.
I didn't say that damping driver baskets was a waste of time, just not on small ones and certainly not on small ones with cast frames.
BTW all of the music I listen to is coming from my computer also. Some of it is compressed. I'm not nearly as pompous as you believe me to be.
planet10 said:
This is the definition:
Resonance: The tendency of a system to oscillate at maximum amplitude at a certain frequency. This frequency is known as the system's resonant frequency.
Note how it says "maximum amplitude" and "certain frequency".
What is the Fs of a driver? It's resonant peak. It's at a certain frequencyin free air but thats not the only frequency it makes sound (by vibrating).
If the panels are not properly damped, they will vibrate below the resonant frequency.
No, true automotive body fillers like Bondo (http://www.bondo-online.com) that are meant for repairing holes, rust repair, etc. and dry hard enough to paint. Formulated to bond with metal it can be worked into the seam between basket and magnet and damps like nobody's business. I once had a Ford Pinto made almost entirely of it. Bullets couldn't penetrate.
BTW, like your idea about using linoleum. Add a thin hard skin like aluminum and you get a rough form of constrained layer damping.
BTW, like your idea about using linoleum. Add a thin hard skin like aluminum and you get a rough form of constrained layer damping.
The discussion on speaker panels has been split off and merged with the thread that spawned it... the posts start here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1229563#post1229563
dave
dave
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