DAC build TDA1541A/SAA7220P/B *will take som time*

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
sorry for your frustration

msmart2b
I am sorry to hear all the frustration. Does seem unusual that 3 or 4 in a row don't work. I don't suppose there is some common mistake you can't see like a ground wire not connected. Same issue 3x? Don't mean to but in without reading the whole progression.
I only mention that because I had that particular problem when I first tried to hook up a USB - I2S converter to my tda. Once it worked once, I realized that if you have proper voltage to the 1541a chip, it is virtually bullet proof.
 
Has any one tried to use the sure-hifi WM8804 S/PDIF TOSLINK to IIS converter as a front end to the TD1541A on the analog-metric board? I am trying to get and II2S signal to the TDA1541A. I have given up on the front end (cs8414, s/pdif portion of this board).

Three times now I have had the board appear to work through this front end And within 5 minutes the 2.2 ohm resistor separating the digital from the analog ground flashes and burns to a crisp. Along with that the cs8414 also gets fried.
 
Hi Dave,

Do you have any experience with the WM8804 S/PDIF TOSLINK to IIS Converter(AA-AB41133)available on EBAY. I get signals on pins 1,2,3 of the TDA1541A but no signal at the output. I'm using the 16 bit IIS as an output. I've also tried the 24 bit IIS. I've tried both master and slave mode. I haven't tried attenuating the signal from the WM board. I'll try that next. Any other ideas?
 
Three times now I have had the board appear to work through this front end And within 5 minutes the 2.2 ohm resistor separating the digital from the analog ground flashes and burns to a crisp. Along with that the cs8414 also gets fried.

That sounds like a negative regulator installed where there should be a positive regulator. Clearly a lot of current is flowing between digital and analog ground. Check for wrong regulator installed or regulator gone faulty. When building a board always power up the board and check voltages. Before installing other chips!
 
Hi Erin,

Thanks for your feedback. I agree with your assessment in regards to the large amount of current between digital and analog ground. On the occasions I have made a change in the PS section, I usually check the test points provided in the documentation. They are usually OK. This time, I'll remove the chips and check the pin locations on the board nearest the chips. Something is awry for sure.
 
No, not the first time. The best version that I have been able to "make" was a modified Magnavox cdb582. I've tried a couple of Raindrops (a complete waste in my opinion) and I was able to get the analog metric to work using an onboard cs8414 receiver sent to me by Dave. After changing the caps on the MSB's from .1 to 1uf an short between the heatsinks killed the cs8414 and the tda. I later discovered that I had a bad (intermittent) coax cable between the transport and the DAC.

All that aside, the sound is definitely NOS TDA. The bass is powerful. But my old ears could use a little more sparkle on top. Comparing the sound of this to that of a Gigaworks kit I built, the G kits dac sounds thin and the glare is apparent.
 
Dark sound

No, not the first time. The best version that I have been able to "make" was a modified Magnavox cdb582. I've tried a couple of Raindrops (a complete waste in my opinion) and I was able to get the analog metric to work using an onboard cs8414 receiver sent to me by Dave. After changing the caps on the MSB's from .1 to 1uf an short between the heatsinks killed the cs8414 and the tda. I later discovered that I had a bad (intermittent) coax cable between the transport and the DAC.

All that aside, the sound is definitely NOS TDA. The bass is powerful. But my old ears could use a little more sparkle on top. Comparing the sound of this to that of a Gigaworks kit I built, the G kits dac sounds thin and the glare is apparent.

I wonder if that has more to do with the I/V and filter. I have no glare, darkness and or weird sound. I have to admit though I am in new territory on the I/V side of things and I have now retired the GIC filter. I decided the OPA627/OPA604/AD8065 was slightly HiFi. Actually not bad just not as good as what I am using now. This is still 4X OS.... This winter I will give NOS a try with the Red Barron version 5, Dwight I hope you get things sorted. :)
 
Transport

Hi Dave,

It took a while but the dac is playing very well now. But my transport has started to skip. Do you have any experience with the DIY transport discussed on these pages?

Hi Dwight, I am happy you stayed with it and got things working. Skipping transport? Sounds like maybe dirty optics or laser issue. I have been using a cheap Sony Bluray player for spinning disc and streaming audio over SPDIF. I have also a Hong Kong made CDROM controller that is put away with 7 (!) CDROM drives as a backup. I read about a Shingaclone or something like that based on a Sanyo portable CD drive. See what they are using now, I suspect those are hard to find now. Otherwise you might consider adding a USB input on your DAC and running that from your computer. There are lots of options. My DIY is in the collection phase (parts) for lots of building this winter. Next week I will assemble a Class D Audio SDS-470 power amp. 300 WPC. Dave :D
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.