Hi Jonas, I'm familiar with your music. Listen to that as well. Along with Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd etc.Don't worry I know for a fact that parts upgrades are very much an improvement. Trust your ears.
Hi Dave,
Yes cymbals has a really natural sound as has drumskins etc. I think it helps having been a musician when it comes to judging how natural instruments sound. I agree that recordings sound very different, as should they
The seller I bought the opamps from had 100% positive feedback, but that's no guarantee that the opamps are genuine.
/Jonas
DIR9001
Hi Jonas, I'm afraid I have no experience with the DIR9001. I'm not sure it's 100% compatiable. I'd post a new thread here to see what others have to say on that. I did some reading here about it some time ago and if memory serves there was a low voltage regulator issue on the early boards. Beyond that I can't direct you. With regards to the BOM, I think your excellent results (and mine as well) are related to the use of the best possible parts. It is a large investment in time and money to be sure. I think we can agree it's worth it. Working on my second build I must admit I have lost track of my investment. It's fun so... I could have spent the money and received a lot less for it. Also we learn too! Keep me posted on how it burns in. Probably take a while to reach it's break in point. Congrats on a fine build. Dave
Hi Jonas, I'm afraid I have no experience with the DIR9001. I'm not sure it's 100% compatiable. I'd post a new thread here to see what others have to say on that. I did some reading here about it some time ago and if memory serves there was a low voltage regulator issue on the early boards. Beyond that I can't direct you. With regards to the BOM, I think your excellent results (and mine as well) are related to the use of the best possible parts. It is a large investment in time and money to be sure. I think we can agree it's worth it. Working on my second build I must admit I have lost track of my investment. It's fun so...
I could have spent the money and received a lot less for it. Also we learn too! Keep me posted on how it burns in. Probably take a while to reach it's break in point. Congrats on a fine build. Dave
Hi Dave,
I'm really happy with the dac as it is and I don't for a second regret extra time and money spent on parts
The dir9001 has less jitter then cs8414/12, that's the reason I'm considering it. There might be other chips out there that are better that can be found on adapterboards?
Not really a priority though.
I'll keep you posted
Jonas
I'm really happy with the dac as it is and I don't for a second regret extra time and money spent on parts
The dir9001 has less jitter then cs8414/12, that's the reason I'm considering it. There might be other chips out there that are better that can be found on adapterboards?
Not really a priority though.
I'll keep you posted
Jonas
Great to hear the happy sounds on this thread
Mayday
I am glad to hear you are enjoying the fruits of your labor. Doing all the research, agonizing over the decisions and then hearing the results. Extremely satisfying! I am not surprised that it sounds great. You have some fine parts choices in there. I never cease to be amazed at how much fun this hobby is. Even with a little extra spent on the BOM, think of what this would have cost retail. A) there probably nothing out there as good, and B) likely not as satisfying if you simply buy the finished package.
Have fun and enjoy the moment.
Mayday
I am glad to hear you are enjoying the fruits of your labor. Doing all the research, agonizing over the decisions and then hearing the results. Extremely satisfying! I am not surprised that it sounds great. You have some fine parts choices in there. I never cease to be amazed at how much fun this hobby is. Even with a little extra spent on the BOM, think of what this would have cost retail. A) there probably nothing out there as good, and B) likely not as satisfying if you simply buy the finished package.
Have fun and enjoy the moment.
Thank you
For once I really took my time and as you described it "agonized" over parts, what to put in each position etc. It really paid of. I usually go back later and improve my builds, this time I "tweaked" it from the start.
I was lucky and got good advice too, thanks to everyone for that!
You're absolutely right, this would have cost alot more to buy retail, and I wouldn't have learned as much as I did.
And there's a great deal to be said for the pride one feels when something you've made sounds good
Grounding
Earlier you asked for suggestions on grounding. Sorry I never replied..
I found the Lampizator site a useful read. His little tutorial on how to cure hum gives an insight on grounding approaches. It has worked for me. You will have to adapt to your style of tube with different pin out. I believe I read a post that describes grounding to think of it as water running away from a source. You can have multiple start ground points, but think of it as small streams flowing into larger reservoir back to the ocean. Some advocate larger wire as more jumps on. Ultimate drain is the safety ground (third pin on IEC) Hope this helps.
humming
Earlier you asked for suggestions on grounding. Sorry I never replied..
I found the Lampizator site a useful read. His little tutorial on how to cure hum gives an insight on grounding approaches. It has worked for me. You will have to adapt to your style of tube with different pin out. I believe I read a post that describes grounding to think of it as water running away from a source. You can have multiple start ground points, but think of it as small streams flowing into larger reservoir back to the ocean. Some advocate larger wire as more jumps on. Ultimate drain is the safety ground (third pin on IEC) Hope this helps.
humming
I have a stargnd for the tube output if that is what you are reffering to?
I'll stick to ECC86 because of the low B+, which also makes it good for cd-players btw.
There are better tubes around, but then I'd need another transformer in the box.
In the end I'll connect all gnds to IEC via the ground "thingy" I made on the pcb.
Thank you so much for your input!
I'll stick to ECC86 because of the low B+, which also makes it good for cd-players btw.
There are better tubes around, but then I'd need another transformer in the box.
In the end I'll connect all gnds to IEC via the ground "thingy" I made on the pcb.
Thank you so much for your input!
1. RCA outer GND left - Will do
2. RCA outer GND Right - Will do
3. Tube socket GND (pin 9) - Did not know.
4. second tube socket pin 9
5. PCB - ground point close to the DAC. - Done
6. Tube anode power supply - minus
7. If DC heater is used - the PSU minus
8. If AC heater is used - The virtual ground point - from center of two resistors or a capacitor.
9. AC cable gnd point if IEC power socket is used.
10. Player's metal chassis
The other ones I'm not sure how they translate to me using wallwarts for both B+ and heaters?
2. RCA outer GND Right - Will do
3. Tube socket GND (pin 9) - Did not know.
4. second tube socket pin 9
5. PCB - ground point close to the DAC. - Done
6. Tube anode power supply - minus
7. If DC heater is used - the PSU minus
8. If AC heater is used - The virtual ground point - from center of two resistors or a capacitor.
9. AC cable gnd point if IEC power socket is used.
10. Player's metal chassis
The other ones I'm not sure how they translate to me using wallwarts for both B+ and heaters?
Got a package from hificollective today, some I/V-resistors
Amtrans AMRG and Holco H2
Amtrans AMRG and Holco H2
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also recieved the connector for the tubeoutput PS B+ and heaters in one connector
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thinking some more about the summer setting for this DAC, our apartment is a bit hot for tubeoutput during the summer.
1. AD797 as I/V and OPA627 as filter/buffer?
2. OPA627 as I/V and as filter/buffer?
3. LMA49710HA as I/V and OPA627 as filter/buffer? (LME49710NA is cheaper but is as good as HA)?
4. LME49713H as I/V and what opamp as filter/buffer?
What do you guys think? Other suggestions?
1. AD797 as I/V and OPA627 as filter/buffer?
2. OPA627 as I/V and as filter/buffer?
3. LMA49710HA as I/V and OPA627 as filter/buffer? (LME49710NA is cheaper but is as good as HA)?
4. LME49713H as I/V and what opamp as filter/buffer?
What do you guys think? Other suggestions?
Hi Jonas, I hear that the metal can version of the LME49710NA is very good. Some think it is pushed more into class A. Make sure you use a cooler on it. Down side is it is expensive in the metal can. I use a OPA627 as an output buffer and I like it very much. In fact it complements the AD8065 in my line stage. I'd recommend aquiring some chips and do some silicon rolling. You may find that the tube stage isn't as "hot" as you might think. Try it and see? Are you using a heatsink on your TDA1541A? You might consider one on your SAA7220 too. For a longer life. As you may know the 7220 gets hot. CMOS.... By the way I think I figured out that issue with the Pedja I/V. Will work on it after I finish mowing the lawn. Dave P.S. I am ready to start hooking up the second build once the I/V is working
You may find that the tube stage isn't as "hot" as you might think. Try it and see? Are you using a heatsink on your TDA1541A? You might consider one on your SAA7220 too. For a longer life. As you may know the 7220 gets hot. CMOS.... By the way I think I figured out that issue with the Pedja I/V. Will work on it after I finish mowing the lawn. Dave P.S. I am ready to start hooking up the second build once the I/V is working
Hi Jonas, I hear that the metal can version of the LME49710NA is very good. Some think it is pushed more into class A. Make sure you use a cooler on it. Down side is it is expensive in the metal can. I use a OPA627 as an output buffer and I like it very much. In fact it complements the AD8065 in my line stage. I'd recommend aquiring some chips and do some silicon rolling.
Hi Dave,
No apparently the tube output with external PS generates less then 2,5W.
I'll order some heatsinks for TDA/SAA, I have noticed the SAA getting a bit warm.
The DAC just gets better and better as it settles with all new parts
Haven't done any DIY today, though I have all the parts needed to put the ECC86 output together now. We went to the vet. with the dog we raised money to help, unfortunately she had some joint deformation that she was born with. In other words she had that limp all her life(1,5 year) and no one did anything about it
She'll have to be put to sleep, but I take comfort in knowing we atleast got her checked out and that she doesn't keep changing owners and suffer in what the vet described as awful pain.
I'll never understand how some people are wired...letting an innocent dog suffer. Anyhow, that's way OT.
Hope you have found the solution to the I/V-problem and get the dac up and running
I'm waiting for a piece of copper pipe to arrive, I'll run the PS wires from the external tube PS through it, trying to eliminate another potential source for humming. Virtually all PS will then be shielded from sensitive parts with atleast 1mm copper.
Jonas
Hi Jonas, I made a heatsink for my TDA. I cut one down to fit and used special heatsink tape off Ebay from a seller in England. It's used for video cards and is made by a firm in Japan. Happy your enjoying your DAC. I'm so sorry to hear about the suffering of the poor dog. I know it's hard to do, she is suffering so there is no choice in the matter. We have the same thing in the USA, people adopt animals without thinking about what if they need medical care? Well... sad to say the AD844's are fried. I made a mistake with the JFET current source, the gate and drain was swapped. AD844's can't tolerate that much juice. I redid the current source... The chips are already gone. I measured .5 Volts and .9 Volts with no input, should be no more then 150 uVolts. I converted over to a transimpedance amplifier an AD811 without the nulling circuit. Success! Only issue is if an idle current of 0.25 Volts through the XSM600/600 is OK. I will email my Cousin for his opinion. Anyway I hooked up the the Dacasaurus for now. Interesting! Very clean sound. Maybe the bass is reticent or down a bit. Could be a matter of breakin. I'm impressed and see no reason not to continue with the tweaking of the second build. The transformer doesn't pass the DC so the secondary is offset free. So it can't hurt anything downstream. I hate to add a capacitor before the transformers as that will add another pole to the filtering although it would get rid of the 1/4 Volt. Good idea on the copper tubing. Oh, i will consider mounting the transformer vertically as you suggested. Dave
Dave
Hi Jonas, I made a heatsink for my TDA. I cut one down to fit and used special heatsink tape off Ebay from a seller in England. It's used for video cards and is made by a firm in Japan. Happy your enjoying your DAC. I'm so sorry to hear about the suffering of the poor dog. I know it's hard to do, she is suffering so there is no choice in the matter. We have the same thing in the USA, people adopt animals without thinking about what if they need medical care? Well... sad to say the AD844's are fried. I made a mistake with the JFET current source, the gate and drain was swapped. AD844's can't tolerate that much juice. I redid the current source... The chips are already gone. I measured .5 Volts and .9 Volts with no input, should be no more then 150 uVolts. I converted over to a transimpedance amplifier an AD811 without the nulling circuit. Success! Only issue is if an idle current of 0.25 Volts through the XSM600/600 is OK. I will email my Cousin for his opinion. Anyway I hooked up the the Dacasaurus for now. Interesting! Very clean sound. Maybe the bass is reticent or down a bit. Could be a matter of breakin. I'm impressed and see no reason not to continue with the tweaking of the second build. The transformer doesn't pass the DC so the secondary is offset free. So it can't hurt anything downstream. I hate to add a capacitor before the transformers as that will add another pole to the filtering although it would get rid of the 1/4 Volt. Good idea on the copper tubing. Oh, i will consider mounting the transformer vertically as you suggested.
Hi Dave,
I ordered 8 of these (15x15x8mm) with high conductivity thermal adhesive tape already on them. 2 each for SAA and TDA should be perfect.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sorry to hear about your setback on the I/V-stage.
I'm waiting for the copper tube to arrive and then I'll get my a$$ in gear and finish up the tube output.
Jonas
I'll be out of "town" all day tomorrow, so I think I'll put off working on the tube output to the weekend.
No harm in a fresh, rested mind when I do what I consider one of the more critical parts of this build.
I REALLY welcome any and all hints, pointers and advice for this stage of the build
No harm in a fresh, rested mind when I do what I consider one of the more critical parts of this build.
I REALLY welcome any and all hints, pointers and advice for this stage of the build
The pio's are at the postoffice, to tired to collect them today.
This copper tube came in the mailbox today. I'll use it to shield PS wires for the tube output.
This copper tube came in the mailbox today. I'll use it to shield PS wires for the tube output.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Mounted the chassis-connector for the external PS for ECC86 output.
Not very pretty, but I didn't have the right tools...
Not very pretty, but I didn't have the right tools...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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