DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

I just put together this kit DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532 and also purchased an info HA usb/spdif converter, with the idea of (eventually) copying my CD collection onto a portable hard drive, if the sonic performance justifies it.
No mods yet to the DAC, but I have ordered an OPA627 opamp.
After briefly evaluating the set up through headphones(I find it is easier to critique component changes with headphones) using:.

1. laptop playing uncompressed .wav files through the usb/spdif converter and B4 buffer preamp
2. digital out from my Onkyo DX4555 into the DAC/B4.
3. headphone direct out from the CD player,
I found that whereas 1. provided a lot of detail, a little bright, maybe(I have 70 year young ears), the bass too was very light. Number 2. revealed similar detail etc, but with fuller bass. Number 3. was the least musical.
So I assume the info HA usb converter is, to my ears, the weak link in the computer setup.
Can anyone share their experiences of USB/spdif converters using this DAC?

Peter

Hello Peter, if you want to improve the sound of the HA info, you must supply it with its own voltage supply independent of the computer.
Some people cut the USB cable and "inject" a regulated +5 to the USB > SPDIF converter. Or build a circuit like this: Silicon Chip Online - USB Power Injector

Either way, you will see that the idea is to provide a nice clean power source to the USB converter, and not use the power from the PC. This should make the converter sound better and have more bass. My personal experinece is with the teralink variety of converter, which has its own DC input, which makes the whole external power experience a lot easier.
 
I think I hear an echoooo.:D:p

Yes... es... s... s... ;D

As for the 4 volt differential that would be more than plenty to keep the 1117's from drop. For that matter the on board 7812 is functioning as a pre reg.feeding two of them.

Yes, but if you don't use the IC output, then that regulator is no longer necessary.

The 1117s are low-dropout regs, so you can feed them just 1.2v more for them to work fine.

I guess the pcb designer did consider the current dissipation to put some copper plate below them. As I didn't yet get mine I can't check on that.

But I am a sucker for cool working parts, so if you are not using the output ICs I'd say put a lower voltage type, like a 7809 or better an LM317 set to 9v, to feed the LM1117 two chips.
 
Hallo

So am I almost finished with my eBAY DAC. I am missing a button (on/off), which will hopefully soon come.

I have upgraded the following
C3>> Sanyo SEPC 470UF 16v
C 38 and C 39>> Elna Silmics II 220 uF 50v
C 23, C24 and C25>> Nichicon FW (m) 2200UF 63v
The 3 regulators > MCxxxxCTG

I think I have some problems with ttttt and ssss sounds.
It plays incredibly detailed, and the scene is good. But it becomes too much in length with sss and ttt sounds. The new components have played about 20-30 hours now(c3 and the 3 regs. only about ~12 hours), are there chanches to anything will change? Or are there other places I should look?

I am using Cat 6 between PCBs and rca plugs.

And just some pictures to finish
 

Attachments

  • PICT0025.JPG
    PICT0025.JPG
    705 KB · Views: 1,153
  • PICT0032.JPG
    PICT0032.JPG
    584.4 KB · Views: 1,083
Last edited:
Hallo

I think I have some problems with ttttt and ssss sounds.
It plays incredibly detailed, and the scene is good. But it becomes too much in length with sss and ttt sounds. The new components have played about 20-30 hours now(c3 and the 3 regs. only about ~12 hours), are there chanches to anything will change? Or are there other places I should look?

I am using Cat 6 between PCBs and rca plugs.

And just some pictures to finish

The analog audio filter on the op-amps needs attention to remove the sibilance.
Replace the generic capacitors (little green ones) with either Vishay KP1830 or Wima FKP type.

Also I notice you are not locally decoupling your op-amp with Silmic caps!
This will also reduce sibilance.

Your audio transport could also be causing some sibilance? Are you using your touch with a linear power supply and applied soundchecks mods?
 
Last edited:
I think I have some problems with ttttt and ssss sounds.
It plays incredibly detailed, and the scene is good. But it becomes too much in length with sss and ttt sounds. The new components have played about 20-30 hours now(c3 and the 3 regs. only about ~12 hours), are there chanches to anything will change? Or are there other places I should look?

If you didn't already changed resistors you should add some carbons, R25, R27, R31 and R33 are good positions.

Any good quality industrial carbon film will do but for best results buy four Rikens.

If you order some more the best thing is to hand-match them to 1% or better.
 
The analog audio filter on the op-amps needs attention to remove the sibilance.
Replace the generic capacitors (little green ones) with either Vishay KP1830 or Wima FKP type.

Also I notice you are not locally decoupling your op-amp with Silmic caps!
This will also reduce sibilance.

Your audio transport could also be causing some sibilance? Are you using your touch with a linear power supply and applied soundchecks mods?

Hallo Erin. I am still a Newbee :) The green ones you mentioned, is it the 5 pieces with circles on the picture below?
If yes, can you please give me a link to eBay to the right ones in the right size from Wima FKP or Vishay ?

Can you make a simple drawing that shows me, what I should do with silmics on the op-amp. And what caps do i need ? (link ebay ?? )

Yes i have a linear power supply for the Touch. I don`t think that soundchecks mods, do something good to the music. Only sittings i have changed, is trancoding on the server (FLAC)
 

Attachments

  • 10.JPG
    10.JPG
    308.5 KB · Views: 1,025
I could'nt really say atleast not yet ,ofcourse if you want basic USB capabilities you would choose that version,as would someone whom may consider the CS4398 a superior number cruncher.


I have built the AKM version but I also ordered the USB/Cirrus version to try .(still waiting for delivery).Had I known of the latter versions existance I would have initially ordered it.
 
Last edited:
Hello Peter, if you want to improve the sound of the HA info, you must supply it with its own voltage supply independent of the computer.
Some people cut the USB cable and "inject" a regulated +5 to the USB > SPDIF converter. Or build a circuit like this: Silicon Chip Online - USB Power Injector

Either way, you will see that the idea is to provide a nice clean power source to the USB converter, and not use the power from the PC. This should make the converter sound better and have more bass. My personal experinece is with the teralink variety of converter, which has its own DC input, which makes the whole external power experience a lot easier.

Hello Erin,

I am also interested in a power supply for a pcm2704 usb > spdif converter.
I found this on ebay.
New 5V - 16V Linear DC Power Supply Components DIY Kits
would it work?
 
Last edited:
Hallo Erin. I am still a Newbee :) The green ones you mentioned, is it the 5 pieces with circles on the picture below?
If yes, can you please give me a link to eBay to the right ones in the right size from Wima FKP or Vishay ?

Can you make a simple drawing that shows me, what I should do with silmics on the op-amp. And what caps do i need ? (link ebay ?? )

Yes i have a linear power supply for the Touch. I don`t think that soundchecks mods, do something good to the music. Only sittings i have changed, is trancoding on the server (FLAC)

Replace the 4 green capacitors next to the opamp with this:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/WIMA-Polypro...060?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aae8e1d24

The two red capacitors next to the op amp should be removed and replaced with Silmic 100uf or 220uf. Observe correct polarity!
Also be careful removing any capacitors in this area because the tracks are thin.
 

Attachments

  • Silmic locations.JPG
    Silmic locations.JPG
    55.2 KB · Views: 1,012
Hello Erin,

I am also interested in a power supply for a pcm2704 usb > spdif converter.
I found this on ebay.
New 5V - 16V Linear DC Power Supply Components DIY Kits
would it work?

Yes it would work, but it is so simple to build you would be better to buy the parts individually and construct it using point to point wiring or tag strip or veroboard. The link I gave to the USB power injector is also nicer because you don't have to cut your USB cable.

I think the easy way to make a USB power injector is to modify a Powered USB hub, and use a linear power supply on it rather than the supplied SMPS. (but I have not tried doing this)
http://www.ebay.de/itm/USB-7-Port-H...754?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4149ce37fa
 
Last edited: