Cyrus 1 output transistor question. push-pull?

thank you
I've gone for
MJE3055T x4 for the outputs and
BD139/140 for the drivers

going to mapling today to try to get presets for the bias as it's none adjustable on the issue 7 cyrus 1
maplin only do a 1k ohm and a 5k ohm so I'll pick up both in the hope one will be suitable. if i wind the 5k half way back from full that could would work. presumably i can get it to measure 2k
 
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Try a search on Maplin for Potentiometer 2k5. They list two. You can search store stock for either.

5k could make the setting very critical with a tiny movement causing a large change in current. If you do fit a 5k then just set it to 5k initially. That would give a zero bias state.

A 1k would work but it would need one of the series resistors changing to say 680 ohm and leaving it in place. That would give a 680 to 1680 adjustable resistor which should be in the right range. Its more trial and error though. The preset would be set to 1k initially which (hopefully) would be at a point that would give zero bias.
 
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This shows the two scenarios with the pot (a 1k) at minimum and maximum resistance.
 

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Try a search on Maplin for Potentiometer 2k5. They list two. You can search store stock for either.

5k could make the setting very critical with a tiny movement causing a large change in current. If you do fit a 5k then just set it to 5k initially. That would give a zero bias state.

A 1k would work but it would need one of the series resistors changing to say 680 ohm and leaving it in place. That would give a 680 to 1680 adjustable resistor which should be in the right range. Its more trial and error though. The preset would be set to 1k initially which (hopefully) would be at a point that would give zero bias.
thanks a lot mooly. just got a work call to make here then I'm off to maplin for the pot
 
thank you
I've gone for
MJE3055T x4 for the outputs and
BD139/140 for the drivers

going to mapling today to try to get presets for the bias as it's none adjustable on the issue 7 cyrus 1
You will get more stock/choice from UK suppliers like:
Rapid, RS, Farnell, CPC
and all of them are likely to be cheaper.
Some do next day delivery, and some are free if you exceed the minimum order value.
 
This is what I would do:

1/ Remove the drivers, the outputs and the two 0.22 ohm resistors.

2/ The 100 ohm and 270 ohm fusibles wrapped around the drivers should now be checkable reliably in circuit, however the 100 ohm with a diode across it may give misleading results. If it does then just reverse the meter probes (to reverse the polarity of the meters own test voltage) and recheck. The remaining fusibles can be checked as well. Only if you can not get the correct reading having tried with the probes both each way should you remove one end of the resistor to check.

3/ While in this state do a quick check in circuit of the two 'pre drivers' that connect directly to the MJE243/244's. Just make sure they don't read low resistance or short between C and E. Red meter lead to C for the upper NPN and black lead to C for the lower PNP. Using the 'diode' range on your meter should give an open circuit result.

3/ Refit the new drivers, BD139 for the upper NPN and BD140 for the lower PNP.

4/ Refit the new outputs and ensure the tab of each (Collector) is correctly isolated from the heatsink. Use fresh thermal grease.

5/ Remove the two series bias setting resistors leaving just the 3k5 present between C and B.

At this point the amp could be tested with a bulb limiter. The bulb should be out, or at least dim. All the rails should be fairly near to normal and the DC voltage present at the amplifier output should be close to zero volts.

If that was OK then the bias preset can be fitted.

If the amp is difficult to work on then the preset can be fitted first. You are using two leads, the middle and either one of the end pins. When you have decided which pins, check the resistance between your chosen pins on the meter and make sure it reads the full 2k (2k2) of the preset by turning the control in the appropriate direction as needed. It MUST be at this initial value when fitted in place of those two resistors.
I've removed the drivers, the outputs and the two 0.22 ohm resistors and all the NFR [!] resistors measure correctly.

out of time tonight, thanks for your help folks. progress report tomorrow :)
 
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That sounds promising.

Before you power up (with the bulb tester of course) do a recheck of all the work done. Outputs isolated correctly from the heatsink, no solder blobs and shorts, and the correct transistors in the correct locations. Bias preset initial set point correct.
 
Hi.

Recently I let someone borrow my Cyrus 1 for a charity event and unfortunately it returned as a dead Cyrus. I did a visual check and replaced a 3.15A fuse, only to discover that one of the output transistors was shorted. Trying to find a replacement has lead me to some interesting sites, without much luck. Then I found this thread and have been amazed by the help being given to someone who wants to learn by doing. I'm an advocate of learning by failing, though I don't actually see it as failure.

I've registered and read all the posts and am about to put together my own shopping list. I just wanted to say 'thanks' to all who have been helping because it's going to help me no end. Also, it's a change to read comments that actually inform and share, rather than recommend that one finds an expert to do it for you.
 
Hi.

Recently I let someone borrow my Cyrus 1 for a charity event and unfortunately it returned as a dead Cyrus. I did a visual check and replaced a 3.15A fuse, only to discover that one of the output transistors was shorted. Trying to find a replacement has lead me to some interesting sites, without much luck. Then I found this thread and have been amazed by the help being given to someone who wants to learn by doing. I'm an advocate of learning by failing, though I don't actually see it as failure.

I've registered and read all the posts and am about to put together my own shopping list. I just wanted to say 'thanks' to all who have been helping because it's going to help me no end. Also, it's a change to read comments that actually inform and share, rather than recommend that one finds an expert to do it for you.
I too have been bowled over my the help given to me when I know very little but am willing to learn and read around the issues.

I hope when (not if) my Brother's cyrus 1 is working again , those that have helped me will get a sense of satisfaction from that and that I , in return , can be of assistance to other fans of sick old gear :)
 
Thanks for the welcome.
I've collated all the info and will be slowly making my way through all the advice in the hope that some will be retained. I get the distinct feeling that first off I'll have to make a bulb limiter. Reliance on visual location of the smoke source may be frowned upon.

I really like the concept of passing on the knowledge.
 
Thanks for the welcome.
I've collated all the info and will be slowly making my way through all the advice in the hope that some will be retained. I get the distinct feeling that first off I'll have to make a bulb limiter. Reliance on visual location of the smoke source may be frowned upon.

I really like the concept of passing on the knowledge.
really wasn't difficult to make one. just a switched socket and a bulb holder wired in series with the live supply to it. into the switched socket i can plug in a normal 3-pin mains to iec kettle lead. Watching the filament briefly glow then dim I found strangely pleasing / reassuring. I felt like I'd calmly regained control of an unruly puppy