Stuey said:
That was at least not my point anyway, but there's a lot of people reading these threads, and I have been more than amazed and closed to horrified sometimes of some the suggestions and solutions that creep up around here....
Some are really
and some are really 
, while every now and then, infrequently often, some are really 
- even for old geezers.... 
MJL21193 said:
John, radial arm saws are used both push and pull. If you are attempting to pull, you'd best know what you are doing, use an anti-climb blade and make sure your insurance is up to date. This is not for the uninitiated. If you are using as a push, there are virtually no problems if you clamp the work down.
Aluminum is fine on a radial saw but I would never, repeat never try it in pull mode.
John, I have spent a number of years in aluminum fabrication and I am having trouble reading what you are typing.
MJL21193 said:
I agree with the first point.
I think the second point is up to the operator. A table saw is not that dangerous but I must admit I still a lot of persons standing behind the stock rather than beside, not using a feeder stick, no gloves, no ear protection, no goggles and removing the guard.
Cal Weldon said:
Cal, A quick search of radial arm saw safety on google will confirm what I'm saying. I learned it from my father (and also in trade school) long ago, have been using these saws for nearly 30 years.
To crosscut on a radial arm saw you pull the blade through the work - this is not an option. To push through runs the risk of the blade grabbing the work and forcing it up. Your advice on this matter is not only wrong, it's dangerous. Clamping the workpiece down to attempt a push through cut is ridiculous.
Maybe a quick sketchup drawing will clarify what I'm saying about using the hand held circular saw to cut sheet aluminum. Below is the drawing - on the bottom is the scrap plywood or MDF, above that ( smaller) is the aluminum sheet and on top is the strip of plywood that will act as the fence or guide for the saw. This is clamped down on both ends. Clear?
Attachments
That's exactly what I meant way back in my first post, only the 2 guides were to be bricklayer's profiles, which are 1" square steel tubing. This is what I do with wood for speakers and it works very accurately if set up properly.
Chrisb, two things to note - the offcuts were from a CNC water jet cutting shop and that's all they do. Yes, they could do it, but it's 10km away and they need to fit these small jobs in between their larger programmed ones. I don't like to interrupt them as they kindly give me aluminium offcuts for almost nothing. The other thing is that, as mentioned above, this thread was more for the long term, so I could use the method on a number of projects. So while I could easily go to a metal shop a couple of kays away, I'd rather get a setup I could use at home.
Cheers
Stuey
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