Mr. Burnedfingers,
Perhaps you would like to post your background and qualifications?
Mine are on my website.
In case you can't find it: http://www.bearlabs.com
I think you are just miffed because of our "dialog" concerning the effect on bass of cathode resistors in tube amps in another area of this forum... at least it seems that way.
Your denegration of me personally is inappropriate and perhaps worse, especially since you don't know me, or apparently have never taken to the time to click on the WWW link to find out anything. NOT that that means that I can't be wrong - I certainly can be wrong, and am all too happy to both admit it and then incorporate that learning. Doesn't seem like you feel the same way. Too bad.
Since I have extensive experience in pro sound, working with "A" list artists and bands, I'd say your assumptions are not warranted. And not nice.
I'd say you owe me a public apology - EVEN IF YOU ARE CORRECT ABOUT CROWN AMPS.
Step up, and be a stand up guy.
_-_-bear
Perhaps you would like to post your background and qualifications?
Mine are on my website.
In case you can't find it: http://www.bearlabs.com
I think you are just miffed because of our "dialog" concerning the effect on bass of cathode resistors in tube amps in another area of this forum... at least it seems that way.
Your denegration of me personally is inappropriate and perhaps worse, especially since you don't know me, or apparently have never taken to the time to click on the WWW link to find out anything. NOT that that means that I can't be wrong - I certainly can be wrong, and am all too happy to both admit it and then incorporate that learning. Doesn't seem like you feel the same way. Too bad.
Since I have extensive experience in pro sound, working with "A" list artists and bands, I'd say your assumptions are not warranted. And not nice.
I'd say you owe me a public apology - EVEN IF YOU ARE CORRECT ABOUT CROWN AMPS.
Step up, and be a stand up guy.
_-_-bear
Awesome. I would also appreciate it if people would stop fighting in my thread about who is the better circuit builder/who has more knowledge about amps. Accept everyone's input and tolerate critisicms. (critics don't need to bring up experience cause that still gets me....nowhere)
Thank you everyone again for your inputs. I found my camera charger today and i'll get some progress shots on here soon.
Thank you everyone again for your inputs. I found my camera charger today and i'll get some progress shots on here soon.
Maybe I've read through this thread a bit fast, but did you test-run the amp for a few seconds without the fan connected? Maybe the fuzz sound (it is coming from the speakers right?) is simply induced by the motor in the fan (fan may have been replaced in the past?).
The fuzz problem may be solved by adding a small toroid?
And just replace the tranny....
Going for the UCD 400 is not a bad idea, but if highest possible power from a "looks like a Crown MT600 box" is the main goal 2x 1200 watts in 8 ohms are possible with two AMP2's bridged (you'd need two 1500 VA tranny's and two times 100 mA 5V). The two boards are pretty small, but hope it'll still fit in the box...
The AMP2 can easily be upgraded to produce more than 2x500 watts into 4 ohms (from a single board, single tranny). Read the 41hz.com forum on it....
The fuzz problem may be solved by adding a small toroid?
And just replace the tranny....
Going for the UCD 400 is not a bad idea, but if highest possible power from a "looks like a Crown MT600 box" is the main goal 2x 1200 watts in 8 ohms are possible with two AMP2's bridged (you'd need two 1500 VA tranny's and two times 100 mA 5V). The two boards are pretty small, but hope it'll still fit in the box...
The AMP2 can easily be upgraded to produce more than 2x500 watts into 4 ohms (from a single board, single tranny). Read the 41hz.com forum on it....
V-bro:
The noise is definitely not the motor of the fan, due to the fact that the fan does not have a motor. To my understanding, Crown decided to use the magnetic current in the transformer to create the spin of the fan....i liked the thought they put into it.
But yes, the sound of fuzz is definitely coming through the speakers...and it isnt' the speakers either due to the fact i had another amp run those and it sounded just fine.
And as for most power for the MT600 box as possible, i'm also looking at the money aspect. I need to make sure it plays well(not soundling like crap) before we start throwin cash all crazy style.
The noise is definitely not the motor of the fan, due to the fact that the fan does not have a motor. To my understanding, Crown decided to use the magnetic current in the transformer to create the spin of the fan....i liked the thought they put into it.
But yes, the sound of fuzz is definitely coming through the speakers...and it isnt' the speakers either due to the fact i had another amp run those and it sounded just fine.
And as for most power for the MT600 box as possible, i'm also looking at the money aspect. I need to make sure it plays well(not soundling like crap) before we start throwin cash all crazy style.
Also:
Any news on these amps, apparently i wouldn't need a transformer with one of these power supplies. http://www.coldamp.com/
Any news on these amps, apparently i wouldn't need a transformer with one of these power supplies. http://www.coldamp.com/
Crown & fingers
Yes he is harsh!
Damn it, he hates Crown with an obvious bias! I felt a similar negative vibe from the "burn" too but I have since had a great dialog with him off the forum in personal e-mails. I don't know his exact credentials but he knows amps well back into the 70's and with deep passion. I'll step back as he can speak for himself all to well.
I'm a Crown Lover with no shame! Great thread!
Cheers,
Shawn.
P.S. Wisdom comes in all forms around here.
bear said:Mr. Burnedfingers,
Perhaps you would like to post your background and qualifications?
Mine are on my website...Step up, and be a stand up guy.
_-_-bear
Yes he is harsh!
Damn it, he hates Crown with an obvious bias! I felt a similar negative vibe from the "burn" too but I have since had a great dialog with him off the forum in personal e-mails. I don't know his exact credentials but he knows amps well back into the 70's and with deep passion. I'll step back as he can speak for himself all to well. I'm a Crown Lover with no shame! Great thread!
Cheers,
Shawn.
P.S. Wisdom comes in all forms around here.
soundquality-wise I would have to agree on Jan's statement of "audiophile".
I've heard a lot of (lower powered) Tripath chip based amps and find them sound just extremely detailed and bass really punches you on the chest without sounding sluggish (they sound like amps with balls if you know what I mean) The mids and highs sound very realistically uncoloured, natural, clear and very holographically 3D like imaging ...
Building more than 500w/ch into 4 ohms is possible with one AMP2 kit costing 82 EUR. and just a few component upgrades..
If you want to go for an easier build the UCD 400 is the way to go..
Both might work on the same power supply, class D's are not very critical to power requirements....(just add a 5Vdc 100 mA PSU for AMP 2, can be done with a 7805 regulator...)
I've heard a lot of (lower powered) Tripath chip based amps and find them sound just extremely detailed and bass really punches you on the chest without sounding sluggish (they sound like amps with balls if you know what I mean) The mids and highs sound very realistically uncoloured, natural, clear and very holographically 3D like imaging ...
Building more than 500w/ch into 4 ohms is possible with one AMP2 kit costing 82 EUR. and just a few component upgrades..
If you want to go for an easier build the UCD 400 is the way to go..
Both might work on the same power supply, class D's are not very critical to power requirements....(just add a 5Vdc 100 mA PSU for AMP 2, can be done with a 7805 regulator...)
Thanks Shawn.
No need for me to plaster my "works" on a web page. I don't need the self induced pat on the back.
Have I had my own amplifiers? Am I a machinest? Can I do custom work? Have I done all the above and more? The answer is yes.
To be blunt and too the point I fix the very large commercial systems when they need it. I'm perfectly able to walk into a system with 20 or so racks of equipment and have her running in no time. Done this in a number of states in hundreds of systems. I've been all over this country repairing what others have screwed up.
I've been on the phone with audio consultants at times explaining to them what changes are needed to their designs on a particular project. They listen and they make the changes. I'm on a first name basis with many of them.
I don't have any engineering degrees or teaching degrees. Hell, I have to count on people to correct my spelling from time to time.
Am I qualified? There are some here that would say no because I don't have any high dollar degrees. There are other people that judge a person by what they are able to do/fix. The people that know me are impressed with my abilities.
I have been at odds with Crown engineers at times in the past over different products. Hell, I was responsible for the shut down and recall of a commercial crossover product in the past. I received over a dozen of a particular model for a system and none worked. I spent most of a night tearing them apart and figuring what and where the problem was and repairing them for usage because I was under the gun to get a system up and running. In the morning I contacted Crown with my findings. They shipped out new tested units and I installed then when they arrived.
There you have it.... I've repaired and or built and or supervised work on hundreds of systems. So, am I quialified?
Probably not.
Ya know, I don't really care if Crown makes good, bad, or mediocre stuff or not. Don't care one way or another.
What does get my attention is when someone attacks me personally for a view about a commercial product that neither one of us has a stake in.
As far as I am concerned everyone who posts can say what they will about circuits, and commercial products till the cows come home.
Nor do I care at all if posters here have multiple Phds or never even went to school. Means nothing at all to me. Nada. Zip. Zilch.
I learn something new on diyAudio all the time.
I'm not afraid to admit that, nor am I afraid to change my views when presented with better information. That's how one grows and learns, imho.
In terms of general advice, it's not a bad idea to take one's ego, or insecurities and park them somewhere before posting (at least on forums of this quality).
When it becomes a personal attack, there is something wrong, and that is where I draw the line. Period.
You should apologize Mr. Burnedfingers.
The personal attack(s) are and were inappropriate and uncecessary regardless of the veracity of your information, or lack thereof. Ok?
Thank you.
_-_-bear
What does get my attention is when someone attacks me personally for a view about a commercial product that neither one of us has a stake in.
As far as I am concerned everyone who posts can say what they will about circuits, and commercial products till the cows come home.
Nor do I care at all if posters here have multiple Phds or never even went to school. Means nothing at all to me. Nada. Zip. Zilch.
I learn something new on diyAudio all the time.
I'm not afraid to admit that, nor am I afraid to change my views when presented with better information. That's how one grows and learns, imho.
In terms of general advice, it's not a bad idea to take one's ego, or insecurities and park them somewhere before posting (at least on forums of this quality).
When it becomes a personal attack, there is something wrong, and that is where I draw the line. Period.
You should apologize Mr. Burnedfingers.
The personal attack(s) are and were inappropriate and uncecessary regardless of the veracity of your information, or lack thereof. Ok?
Thank you.
_-_-bear
Dirtyk777,
There had best be a fan in there!!
The fan motor is the transformer for the low voltage!!
No fan, amp no workie...
Assuming there is a fan, and it is spinning... and that you get "fuzzy sound" from both channels? Then with the power off, and unplugged, pull some of the power transistors off one channel - actually it is a good idea to pull all of them off one channel, and test them. If you have a DVM with an "hfe" tester, that should be sufficient in the main.
The power transistors, iirc, will need to have their two top screws removed, and the two pins on the board unsoldered. Start with one bank... in the 600 probably the entire board is not populated anyhow. And see if you find a non-functional transistor.
You can start with a simple ohms test too... if you find a dead short then you know something is NG. But pulling the transistors works best. Anyhow these are pretty good high power complementary matched sets (keep them together - or mark them with a marker so you know which came with which!!) that can be used to build an amp - you need a new driver board, of course to do that.
A blown transistor will tell you something about the failure. IF you find one or more, then you need to look at the driver transistors (also on the heatsink) and if they are blown, I'd say the amp is ready to be junked for parts... it will cost more to repair at that point than buying one on ebay - or darn close in time & parts... ok?
_-_-bear
There had best be a fan in there!!
The fan motor is the transformer for the low voltage!!
No fan, amp no workie...
Assuming there is a fan, and it is spinning... and that you get "fuzzy sound" from both channels? Then with the power off, and unplugged, pull some of the power transistors off one channel - actually it is a good idea to pull all of them off one channel, and test them. If you have a DVM with an "hfe" tester, that should be sufficient in the main.
The power transistors, iirc, will need to have their two top screws removed, and the two pins on the board unsoldered. Start with one bank... in the 600 probably the entire board is not populated anyhow. And see if you find a non-functional transistor.
You can start with a simple ohms test too... if you find a dead short then you know something is NG. But pulling the transistors works best. Anyhow these are pretty good high power complementary matched sets (keep them together - or mark them with a marker so you know which came with which!!) that can be used to build an amp - you need a new driver board, of course to do that.
A blown transistor will tell you something about the failure. IF you find one or more, then you need to look at the driver transistors (also on the heatsink) and if they are blown, I'd say the amp is ready to be junked for parts... it will cost more to repair at that point than buying one on ebay - or darn close in time & parts... ok?
_-_-bear
Some stuff is mentioned in this thread...http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-70804.html
The module is much like ucd400...
The module is much like ucd400...
Ok, so here are the voltages at the rectifiers:
Main transformers- each 60.5V
Motorformer- 18-0-18
Thats it, no other windings in that amp.
I couldn't find any info on the VA rating of the transormers and it's hard to judge because they are a slim and fat design. My gut feeling would be in the neighborhood of 300-400VA each.
Main transformers- each 60.5V
Motorformer- 18-0-18
Thats it, no other windings in that amp.
I couldn't find any info on the VA rating of the transormers and it's hard to judge because they are a slim and fat design. My gut feeling would be in the neighborhood of 300-400VA each.
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