Depends on what top end means,if it means expensive components that you think sound better,im sure there are many sites around if you search for 'hifi audiophile capacitor' etc
Passive crossovers will require higher spec components than many cheap systems have.
Active crossovers consist of opamps and components that are less critical and often have good specs anyway.
Note that audiophiles will debate the ability of some of these components and their distortion,but Ive never seen a well carried out ABX test prove it.
The only crossover component ABX tests I know of were done by Tom Nousaine and they showed that there was no discernable difference in reglar vs. High end caps.
My own experience mirrors this. Built my own speakers, one with premium parts of the same value as the less expensive ones in another identical speaker, no difference.
I do suggest non-inductive resistors though.
Passive crossovers will require higher spec components than many cheap systems have.
Active crossovers consist of opamps and components that are less critical and often have good specs anyway.
Note that audiophiles will debate the ability of some of these components and their distortion,but Ive never seen a well carried out ABX test prove it.
The only crossover component ABX tests I know of were done by Tom Nousaine and they showed that there was no discernable difference in reglar vs. High end caps.
My own experience mirrors this. Built my own speakers, one with premium parts of the same value as the less expensive ones in another identical speaker, no difference.
I do suggest non-inductive resistors though.
Yeah, this is kinda what I thought - no need to put a lot of resources into something that won't make an audible difference. It gets back to the drivers being the most obvious critical components, and everything else following far down the priority ladder from there.
It seems the important thing about crossovers is to get the crossover points at the right spot, and to get as flat a frequency response as possible. As I said in a previous post, audible differences are probably similar to those of loudspeaker cables - in other words - nil. I can see spending a little more money on good quality components, for the peace of mind of reliability - that makes some sense.
It seems the important thing about crossovers is to get the crossover points at the right spot, and to get as flat a frequency response as possible. As I said in a previous post, audible differences are probably similar to those of loudspeaker cables - in other words - nil. I can see spending a little more money on good quality components, for the peace of mind of reliability - that makes some sense.
My approach is to attack the major distortion offendors,ones that are proven! You waste less money that way.And when your a student any expenditure has to be frugal!
The fact for me was that my bass was so distorted i couldnt enjoy music so i bought a jbl2226 2nd hand...now i have to buy some LE main speakers... then il need some class A sand amps..
The fact for me was that my bass was so distorted i couldnt enjoy music so i bought a jbl2226 2nd hand...now i have to buy some LE main speakers... then il need some class A sand amps..
For a good reference try here:
Crossovers for dummies, DIY Practical Guide to the loudspeaker crossover - The Book Worm
Crossovers for dummies, DIY Practical Guide to the loudspeaker crossover - The Book Worm
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