I started with Zetag Kinima G4. I have seen these advertised on the web through stores at $2000+ $U.S., and they list in the $2,500 range. www.zetagcorp.com I live near their "factory" and was able to pick them up for $650 $U.S. as they have been clearing out what they can I think due to cash issues. Their ex president (or maybe he is still with them, hard to tell) sells them every once in a while on Ebay, and I think he has an online store somewhere where he sells them for $1400 ish if I remember correctly. He also sells the drivers regularly through E-Bay, though from another poster on diyAudio, it seems like there are two versions of the woofer, and older one and a newer one.
You can pick up the woofers on E-Bay, either the 6.5" or 8" for less than $100 U.S. per pair. At that price, they are a good value. However, like just about any metal dome woofer, they have a mass-limited break up peak that must be dealt with. The Seas metal woofers exhibit a similar response. I was never able to get a response plot on the speakers, but all the design parameters of the woofers are easy to come by. Unfortunately, I have no specs on the tweeters, but they are easy to deal with. They exhibit almost no resonance peak (actually the woofers don't exhibit much of one either).
Alvaius
You can pick up the woofers on E-Bay, either the 6.5" or 8" for less than $100 U.S. per pair. At that price, they are a good value. However, like just about any metal dome woofer, they have a mass-limited break up peak that must be dealt with. The Seas metal woofers exhibit a similar response. I was never able to get a response plot on the speakers, but all the design parameters of the woofers are easy to come by. Unfortunately, I have no specs on the tweeters, but they are easy to deal with. They exhibit almost no resonance peak (actually the woofers don't exhibit much of one either).
Alvaius
I forgot to post some helpful links:
http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm -- Has a whole range of tutorials and calculations for cross-overs, boxes, etc. Until recently, it was hosted on a tripod web-site.
This one is also pretty good for calculations, but the explanations are not as good... http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp
http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm -- Has a whole range of tutorials and calculations for cross-overs, boxes, etc. Until recently, it was hosted on a tripod web-site.
This one is also pretty good for calculations, but the explanations are not as good... http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp
Hi alvaius,
Can you give me the cross-over schematic for your speakers. I'm the dude with the other pair of Zetag G4 speakers. I'm trying to take measurements using Speaker Workshop (which I've pretty much given up on) and Also I've taken measurements using Loudspeaker Lab 2. I figured out how to use it, but the measurements don't seem to be very accurate.
Can you give me the cross-over schematic for your speakers. I'm the dude with the other pair of Zetag G4 speakers. I'm trying to take measurements using Speaker Workshop (which I've pretty much given up on) and Also I've taken measurements using Loudspeaker Lab 2. I figured out how to use it, but the measurements don't seem to be very accurate.
Brain hiccup...
I meant audiotester www.sumuller.de/audiotester
I would like to finally my cross-over before I post. I am doing some tweaking.
Alvaius
I meant audiotester www.sumuller.de/audiotester
I would like to finally my cross-over before I post. I am doing some tweaking.
Alvaius
Yes, I bought just the drivers and the cross-over parts. I almost definately have inferrior wiring and cabinet design and construction compared to the G4.
Does anyone know if it's possible to get replacement cones? I have four G4 8" drivers that have dented metal cones.
I figured out how to take measurements using Speaker workshop, but I don't get accurate results for some reason. I think I did see a 10 db peak at 3,500 Hz and at 2-3 KHz also for some reason only twice out of about 20 measurements. I used nearfield gated frequency measurements and a panasonic WM-60AY capsole.
Does anyone know if it's possible to get replacement cones? I have four G4 8" drivers that have dented metal cones.
I figured out how to take measurements using Speaker workshop, but I don't get accurate results for some reason. I think I did see a 10 db peak at 3,500 Hz and at 2-3 KHz also for some reason only twice out of about 20 measurements. I used nearfield gated frequency measurements and a panasonic WM-60AY capsole.
I did really want to recone (as I understand that's a new surround, cone and voice coil). I just need a new cone; aluminum would be best, but anything 8" will due. I can put it in myself; atleast I think I think I can pull it off.
No the dents aren't bad and don't effect sound. I was going to use 2 zetag 24 10 00 woofers in one speaker and 2 - 24 07 00 in another. But I dropped one of the 24 10 00 speakers and damaged the fragile metal cone. So now I have to use 3 of the 24 07 00 and 1 - 24 10 00 that are undented. It will look kind of strange cause you'll be able to tell they aren't the same woofer if they're in the same enclosure right next to each other. Not like they're 4 meters apart in the other senario. I buy woofers not only based on quality and sound, but also based on their looks. So if I can't do anything with the dented cones they're going in the trash. But first I will take them apart and play with them.
Let me know when your cross-overs done. I think you said that the baffle step is 400 Hz before, but I think it's over 800 Hz. I just mentioned this cause you said in another post you were making a 2.5 way cross-over with the cross-over for the bottom woofer at 400 Hz and below.
No the dents aren't bad and don't effect sound. I was going to use 2 zetag 24 10 00 woofers in one speaker and 2 - 24 07 00 in another. But I dropped one of the 24 10 00 speakers and damaged the fragile metal cone. So now I have to use 3 of the 24 07 00 and 1 - 24 10 00 that are undented. It will look kind of strange cause you'll be able to tell they aren't the same woofer if they're in the same enclosure right next to each other. Not like they're 4 meters apart in the other senario. I buy woofers not only based on quality and sound, but also based on their looks. So if I can't do anything with the dented cones they're going in the trash. But first I will take them apart and play with them.
Let me know when your cross-overs done. I think you said that the baffle step is 400 Hz before, but I think it's over 800 Hz. I just mentioned this cause you said in another post you were making a 2.5 way cross-over with the cross-over for the bottom woofer at 400 Hz and below.
hey dont trash it.
I managed to un dent a TI 19mm tweeter dome. I assume the process is the same.
it require time and patience and a soft hand. if you know someone how build clay pots or a surgeon ask them (my sister and aunt helped me) their hands are softer than our "industrial duty lumber jack hands". My aunt's words not mine.
they went by feel and pressed the edge where the dent meets the undented part. a small part of the dented dome got undented. then slowly they pressed at another edge and after abot 10-15 mins they had it un dented again.
If the dustcap is too rigid to do that try this.
1. make a pin prick in the dust cap.
2. take a paper pin and bend it at 110deg or so. (more than 90 deg.
3. insert pin in pin prick
4. try and pull the dent out.
I have not tried this but I have heard it works.
BTW I am trying to get recoil kits for my drivers. Living in India where import laws and duties and taxes are high and value of local currency is very low we are very careful about throwing anythig away.
If you know wher to get recoil kits for 8" Focal woofers or 6" Audax mids let me know. I have ahd the Focal wofoers since 1987 and the Audax mids since 1996.
I managed to un dent a TI 19mm tweeter dome. I assume the process is the same.
it require time and patience and a soft hand. if you know someone how build clay pots or a surgeon ask them (my sister and aunt helped me) their hands are softer than our "industrial duty lumber jack hands". My aunt's words not mine.
they went by feel and pressed the edge where the dent meets the undented part. a small part of the dented dome got undented. then slowly they pressed at another edge and after abot 10-15 mins they had it un dented again.
If the dustcap is too rigid to do that try this.
1. make a pin prick in the dust cap.
2. take a paper pin and bend it at 110deg or so. (more than 90 deg.
3. insert pin in pin prick
4. try and pull the dent out.
I have not tried this but I have heard it works.
BTW I am trying to get recoil kits for my drivers. Living in India where import laws and duties and taxes are high and value of local currency is very low we are very careful about throwing anythig away.
If you know wher to get recoil kits for 8" Focal woofers or 6" Audax mids let me know. I have ahd the Focal wofoers since 1987 and the Audax mids since 1996.
I don't know where to get cones for those specific speakers. I'll use the 8" woofers for something eventually I guess. If I add mass to the cones I might be able to make subs out of them.
Alvaius, Please let me know when you finish those cross-overs. My e-mail is tlucko@hotmail.com
Alvaius, Please let me know when you finish those cross-overs. My e-mail is tlucko@hotmail.com
Another DIY 3 way
Here's a project that I've been working on for some time (yrs).
http://groups.msn.com/berryliumthing/berryliumheilss.msnw
Consists of an old Yamaha NS1000 berylium dome mid, now a Raven R1 tweeter (in photo Heil AMT1c) & 2 Scanspeak 18w/8535 woofers. Sound is quite good considering my backyard crossover skills, but still needs more development. The idea was to combine the attributes of 2 of my favourite speakers, Proac 2.5 & Yamaha NS1000M, resulting in similar mid/treble detail & flowing bass.
Here's a project that I've been working on for some time (yrs).
http://groups.msn.com/berryliumthing/berryliumheilss.msnw
Consists of an old Yamaha NS1000 berylium dome mid, now a Raven R1 tweeter (in photo Heil AMT1c) & 2 Scanspeak 18w/8535 woofers. Sound is quite good considering my backyard crossover skills, but still needs more development. The idea was to combine the attributes of 2 of my favourite speakers, Proac 2.5 & Yamaha NS1000M, resulting in similar mid/treble detail & flowing bass.
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