It seems every crossover I come across has the passive components bound together with glue from a Hot Glue Gun. Particularly true in subwoofer plate amps, for obvious reasons.
My question is this: If an inductor or a capacitor was immersed in glue with (say) only the connectors exposed, would this, could this alter the value of the component?
My gut tells me, in the case of an inductor, probably not.
But in the case of a capacitor, I'm not so sure. Many of these exotic caps are based on exact quantities of oil, resin, teflon, wax or similar to achieve their capacitance values.
Could bathing them in glue change that value?
(Sadly, I lack the test equipment to test this theory...)
What do others think?
My question is this: If an inductor or a capacitor was immersed in glue with (say) only the connectors exposed, would this, could this alter the value of the component?
My gut tells me, in the case of an inductor, probably not.
But in the case of a capacitor, I'm not so sure. Many of these exotic caps are based on exact quantities of oil, resin, teflon, wax or similar to achieve their capacitance values.
Could bathing them in glue change that value?
(Sadly, I lack the test equipment to test this theory...)
What do others think?
The glue is not likely to affect it very much, since the two capacitor plates are wound
tightly together. Only what's in between the plates matters.
Last edited:
For inductors, the glue's mu probably looks pretty much like air, so no change there either.
The glue can help with microphonic crossover parts, both L and C, though.
MICROPHONICS...
RAYMA
Yeah, that’s why I’m checking.
I feel that microphoncs play a huge part in how passive components sound.
The more microphonics are soaked-up and eliminated, the better the sound.
I just wanted to double-check before I apply these ideas to my latest project.
Seems like I needn’t worry and just get on and glue it up!
Cheers!
RAYMA
Yeah, that’s why I’m checking.
I feel that microphoncs play a huge part in how passive components sound.
The more microphonics are soaked-up and eliminated, the better the sound.
I just wanted to double-check before I apply these ideas to my latest project.
Seems like I needn’t worry and just get on and glue it up!
Cheers!
Last edited:
Good luck. There are also various clamps and adhesive sheets that can work similarly,
depending on the shape of the parts.
Remember, the best place in a speaker for the crossover is on the outside.
If not Externally-located Speaker Crossover, then where?
RAYMA
Agreed. Trouble is, I just can't see the wife buying-in to a crossover hanging around outside of the speaker.
She's VERY supportive - GBH - but there is a limit!
So if an externally-located speaker crossover is just not an option, where is the (next) best spot?
I feel the worst location would have to be on the rear wall where the binding posts sit. That location typically gets blasted with the main woofer output. Ironically, that's where crossovers are usually located; and this is true of my current project. Hmmmmmmmmmm...
Probably mounted on the inner upper speaker surface - away from any corners - would be my guess as the next best location. This would typically place the crossover further from the woofer(s) low frequency output (larger vibrations); and instead taking the higher frequencies (smaller vibrations) from the tweeter. Perhaps the lesser of the evils.
Thoughts?
RAYMA
Agreed. Trouble is, I just can't see the wife buying-in to a crossover hanging around outside of the speaker.
She's VERY supportive - GBH - but there is a limit!
So if an externally-located speaker crossover is just not an option, where is the (next) best spot?
I feel the worst location would have to be on the rear wall where the binding posts sit. That location typically gets blasted with the main woofer output. Ironically, that's where crossovers are usually located; and this is true of my current project. Hmmmmmmmmmm...
Probably mounted on the inner upper speaker surface - away from any corners - would be my guess as the next best location. This would typically place the crossover further from the woofer(s) low frequency output (larger vibrations); and instead taking the higher frequencies (smaller vibrations) from the tweeter. Perhaps the lesser of the evils.
Thoughts?
Last edited:
Just mount the external crossover in its own nice enclosure that matches the speaker,
located nearby, even on the back of the speaker enclosure, with damping in between.
Last edited:
Well then, on a smaller side, as far away from the woofer as you can.
Maybe near the port, if there is one. Staple some thick felt or wool over
and/or under the board.
Last edited:
Crossover Mounted on the Woofer Magnet...?
TURK182
At first I thought you were kidding.
Then I thought, maybe that's not so silly. On the back of the woofer, it would probably shelter from the cone output and have a very solid and sure footing.
But I guess I'd still be very concerned about the huge frequencies coming of the woofer, travelling down the basket frame and on to the magnet...
Okay. So you were kidding, right?
TURK182
At first I thought you were kidding.
Then I thought, maybe that's not so silly. On the back of the woofer, it would probably shelter from the cone output and have a very solid and sure footing.
But I guess I'd still be very concerned about the huge frequencies coming of the woofer, travelling down the basket frame and on to the magnet...
Okay. So you were kidding, right?
Crossover Mounted Near the Speaker Port...?
RAYMA
My speaker project is a lovely pair of REGA KYTEs.
They have an unusual port that is simply a diagonal cross-member on the top right-hand corner. This forms a triangular port, the mouth of which extends from the rear to the front of the cabinet. It is visually "sealed" with filter foam - so not sealed at all. Quite ingenious.
Like a lot of REGA offerings, the KYTEs have a real cult-following in the UK. I believe they were also made in Canada for the Stateside market.
(They reckon the English ones are THE ones...)
I'll have a think about your suggestion of mounting the Crossover near the port. Perhaps at the very front the port - outside the tunnel, next to the tweeter - where the airflow is least.
(TURK182 is gonna tell me "Embrace the Dark Side and mount it inside the tunnel..." WHOOSH!!!)
RAYMA
My speaker project is a lovely pair of REGA KYTEs.
They have an unusual port that is simply a diagonal cross-member on the top right-hand corner. This forms a triangular port, the mouth of which extends from the rear to the front of the cabinet. It is visually "sealed" with filter foam - so not sealed at all. Quite ingenious.
Like a lot of REGA offerings, the KYTEs have a real cult-following in the UK. I believe they were also made in Canada for the Stateside market.
(They reckon the English ones are THE ones...)
I'll have a think about your suggestion of mounting the Crossover near the port. Perhaps at the very front the port - outside the tunnel, next to the tweeter - where the airflow is least.
(TURK182 is gonna tell me "Embrace the Dark Side and mount it inside the tunnel..." WHOOSH!!!)
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.