Crossover box construction. Stainless?.

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Cousin Billy said:
I have renovated my house with no previous experience. When an inspector came to look at my work (supporting wall removed), he told me not to bother calling him anymore, he approved everything without looking.



Cough.....

No offense meant to the poster here, but, being an inspector myself, he has opened himself , the city and province (state?) to a future of lawsuits. Very bad decision for both of you.
Knowing all the plumbing /electrical / building ect. codes has taken me a career to learn. You are the Stephen Hawkings of DIY.

I can't wait to see the photos.
Ron
 
Thank you Renron for your observation regarding building inspectors.

I will try to make this short. Yah right.

Jehovah's Witness buildings here in Canada are no longer inspected. They are so overbuild , inspectors need no longer waste their valuable time. I do not go to church. OPPS.

New home builder's try so hard to minimize cost, that codes are often violated. The subcontractors are also trying to mazimize profits. Let me explain violated. Interpretation of the code is a common practice. How many times have I seen two sewage pipe exhausts coming through the roof, with one of them not connected, i.e. all of the plumbing fixtures in the house come through one pipe, but they have two exhausts through the roof?. CODE IS MET. The other pipe is open, and rainwater comes through the roof. Many wires come out of the mains breaker, but all to the adjacent rooms. The rest of the house runs off of a few 12/3's that are split everywhere. The inspectors are so overburdened with the large builders, they have little or no spare time.

Let me continue

Here in Brampton we have a very large ethnic comunity (NOW READ THIS NEXT STATEMENT VERY CAREFULLY), They are putting apartments in their basements using lamp cord and/or cheap speaker cable FOR THE MAIN WIRING. Did you read that, lamp cord!!!!!!. Buildings are being condemned because of this. So when an inspector shows up at my home for the first time, sees three 2" x 10"'s jacked by three 2" x 6"'s IN AN UPSTAIRS supporting wall with only the roof to support, and then sees 12/2 wiring for the bathroom, a seperate wire over code for the Whirlpool, and a seperate wire for the single GFI, all coming directly from the main breaker, and not one but two extra breathers through the roof for my added shower/bidet, what do you think he say's to himself, this guy is overdoing it, I need not return. What would you think?.

PRIDE OF OWNERSHIP. Integrity. OCD. Giving oneself a pat on the back because you know that your guests see the nice ceramic floor, but they do not see that you put a 5/8" tongue and groove OVER the previous floor, screwed not nailed. Would you like to come and critique my work?.

My home is over the top, eccentric to the point of gaudy, and so will my speakers be. When I am done, these speakers will have few peers under $100,000,00. Already over a year in the making, and another 6-8 months before tentative completion, at the earliest. They will be tested dozens of times, and if need be, totally redesigned. The absolute best, or nothing.

Arrogant, you betsha, that's my middle name. I have never faced an obstacle I could not overwhelm.

LOL Billy
Real name Vasili Lalof
Direct descendant of Alexander of Macedonia
Now do you understand who and what I am?
My arrogance borders on insanity. I have no peers.
Please send a strait jacket, nothing else will hold me back

'hope the moderators don't cut me off for getting off topic'
 
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Vasili,

A few comments...

Sorry to relate that I do not like your ancestor, or at least what he did... hope you got the better part of the genetic legacy... :D

Do NOT use sterling silver for connections or wiring. Sounds awful.

If you have never built speakers or designed speakers, I'd spend some time looking at some of the more sophisticated build-outs and designs on these pages... there is much much more to a good sounding speaker than aesthetic design of the cabinet.

Of course if you only want sculpture that makes sound, fine.

I am sure that folks would like to see either a link to the speaker that I think you referenced, or some other pix of what you were going to post? [edit: guess some pix just showed up...]

Either way, good luck with your project, hope to see it come to fruition!

_-_-bear
 
Thank you Bear

I too hope the project goes well.

The speakers are just as much for looks as they are sound. I do realize there is much more to a good speaker then just a collection of expensive parts. That is why the project is taking as long as it is. It is not the destination which is the fascination but the journey there.

I have seen and read about countless projects on this site as well as others. We all do our best and are proud of our babies. I have no doubt there are a lot of fabulous speakers that cost less then the Duelund CastPio's I am using. Maybe my ego is too big.

My apologies, the rand was totally unnecessary. I will conduct myself in a much more proffessional manner from here on in.

Cousin Billy
 
Cousin Billy said:
Thank you Renron for your observation regarding building inspectors.

Your Welcome.

I will try to make this short. Yah right.

The inspectors are so overburdened with the large builders, they have little or no spare time.


You seem to think that the inspectors job is to burden or make your remodel job more difficult, they are there for YOUR safety!

PRIDE OF OWNERSHIP. Integrity. OCD. Giving oneself a pat on the back because you know that your guests see the nice ceramic floor, but they do not see that you put a 5/8" tongue and groove OVER the previous floor, screwed not nailed. Would you like to come and critique my work?.


You don't want me to critique your work.... ie: What was the T&G screwed over?
Did you use sub-floor adhesive?
Did you use concrete board over the T&G?
If so did you space the joints so they were NOT over the floor joists?
If you used concrete board over the T&G did you use thin-set mortar under the concrete board prior to screwing them down? What type of screws did you use to screw the concrete boards down? What length?
Did you pre-moisten the concrete board prior to spreading the thin-set? Depends on the type of CBU.
Did you use Thin-set or mastic?
If Thin-set, was it the modified or unmodified type?
Did you do proper floor load calculations for the type of tile or natural stone you used?
Did you know they are different?
Shall I continue?


My home is over the top, eccentric to the point of gaudy, and so will my speakers be. When I am done, these speakers will have few peers under $100,000,00.

Really? I have never heard any speakers that even modestly approach that cost, I would bet that most of us on this forum haven't either. You run with a rich crowd. Good luck with that.

Arrogant, you betsha, that's my middle name. '

Thanks for the pictures.
Very nice work on the lamination of the speakers, looks good and I bet they weigh a ton!

Ron
 
Thank you Ron

1) Opps. Why should I NOT have screwed the T&G over the joists, which I did?. Everything else was scrutinized, thank you.

2) The boxes are only loosely put together. The throat of the mid section is too cylindrical. We need to drastically change that. This needs to be done without impedeing on the tweeter's closed chamber. If we put the tweeter in the mid's chamber we will need to cover it in an SBS rubber membrane?, I think. The volume for the mid's as per our original LEAP program calls for a minimum of 2.35 liters with 50% fill for a Q of 0.577 (Bessel alignment), or 2.7 liters 100% fill for a best-transient alignment with Q=0.5. But people have stated that the Accuton drivers are too dry sounding this way. So you see, we are still a long ways away. Boxes will be made, tested, and potentially tossed. I do not want to tell you what it costs to use a CNC machine for half a day, and then put those pieces at the back of the shop. Yikes.

I have still not accurately measured all of the drivers, in chamber, with my amps. All of this may have to change!!!!. The journey, remember the journey.

BEAR

I agree, Sterling Silver has too many impurities. If we where to use it, which is still up in the air, we would need to purify it. This is not a fun process. We would need to heat the SS in a non-boraxed crucible, carefully skim off the top, and subsequently discard the crucible. You see, the borax stops anything from sticking to the crucible, but we want stuff to stick, this often is the stuff we don't want, the impurities. Carefull weight measurements of all the discarded stuff needs to be made to ensure a high purity silver content. I will be happy with 99.99. As well, zero crystal silver is achieved by cooling the silver immediately after application. This means every connection needs someone with an air source to cool the silver now.

I am curious at your caution about silver. Silver is a better conductor of an electrical signal then copper. Silver oxide conducts electricity, where copper's does not. Surely this would be better then solder which is tin?.

I am not sure the observations regarding silver coated copper can apply to pure 7N zero crystal UPOCC silver, if that is where your observations come from ( I am now assuming, sorry). My thoughts; silver has a slightly lower resistance, therefore the signal will travel ever so slightly more quickly, as well higher frequencies travel on the outer skin (of a wire) where lower frequencies travel more to the center. If the thickness of the silver plating is not sufficient, the higher frequencies will arive, there will be a break, and then the rest arrives. For this reason pure Silver will be used everywhere. The only caution I have for myself is that all of the crossover components are copper. It I am not happy, and if I do not get goosebumps, then that too will need to be changed. This project may be another year away. The journey.
 
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