Sounding better and better. Of course the drivers still have less than 2 hours on them.
Things changed dramatically when I realized that with LR24 you need to reverse the midrange polarity. Oops.
I quickly made LR12 and Butterworth6 crossovers. Right now I like the LR12 best. I've attached my config for those curious.
I'm not happy with the Behringer when it comes to dealing with dipole cancellation and the hiss is pretty loud which I guess is the price I pay for using 100db/W drivers. In the short term I'm going to try adding a passive line level low pass that Larry Selmer cooked up for equalizing woofers. He's been hammering me pretty hard to try it and it would be quick and easy to try.
Listening to Dave Matthews' Some Devil.
What I've been noticing is how much impact the instruments have, something I don't believe I noticed with my Ellis 1801Bs.
On to the tweeter. The response does drop off pretty quick after you raise your head at least +/- 10 inches. However, I find it not that big of a deal, certainly not as much as I had worried. Maybe, I'll change my mind if I push the crossover lower than 3k.
Things changed dramatically when I realized that with LR24 you need to reverse the midrange polarity. Oops.
I quickly made LR12 and Butterworth6 crossovers. Right now I like the LR12 best. I've attached my config for those curious.
I'm not happy with the Behringer when it comes to dealing with dipole cancellation and the hiss is pretty loud which I guess is the price I pay for using 100db/W drivers. In the short term I'm going to try adding a passive line level low pass that Larry Selmer cooked up for equalizing woofers. He's been hammering me pretty hard to try it and it would be quick and easy to try.
Listening to Dave Matthews' Some Devil.
What I've been noticing is how much impact the instruments have, something I don't believe I noticed with my Ellis 1801Bs.
On to the tweeter. The response does drop off pretty quick after you raise your head at least +/- 10 inches. However, I find it not that big of a deal, certainly not as much as I had worried. Maybe, I'll change my mind if I push the crossover lower than 3k.
Feandhil/audiophilenoob :
The hiss is inherent in the DCX. I have it also, as do most people who are using the DCX as a crossover. The problem with using high sensativity drivers like the PR170 and the Fountek ribbons that UC and I are using is that the noise is much louder.. with 98+ db efficient drivers the noise is "noticable" at 3 meters during quiet passages. The noise does not change with volume, since its inherent in the DCXs outputs. The only way to get reduce the noise is to attenuate the outputs of the DCX and drive the inputs much hotter.
UltraChrome:
Have you used the "auto correct" function in the DCX yet? It will find the correct polarity for you, as well as calculate the correct short delay setting.. The biggest advantage of the DCX is that you can use the short-delay to compensate for driver accoustic center offset. I couldn't believe how much difference it made.
--Chris
The hiss is inherent in the DCX. I have it also, as do most people who are using the DCX as a crossover. The problem with using high sensativity drivers like the PR170 and the Fountek ribbons that UC and I are using is that the noise is much louder.. with 98+ db efficient drivers the noise is "noticable" at 3 meters during quiet passages. The noise does not change with volume, since its inherent in the DCXs outputs. The only way to get reduce the noise is to attenuate the outputs of the DCX and drive the inputs much hotter.
UltraChrome:
Have you used the "auto correct" function in the DCX yet? It will find the correct polarity for you, as well as calculate the correct short delay setting.. The biggest advantage of the DCX is that you can use the short-delay to compensate for driver accoustic center offset. I couldn't believe how much difference it made.
--Chris
Not in the same price range.... However you might look at these :
DEQX : http://www.deqx.com/
DBX DriveRack : http://www.driverack.com/PA.htm
The DCX is really in a price/performance point of its own...
--Chris
DEQX : http://www.deqx.com/
DBX DriveRack : http://www.driverack.com/PA.htm
The DCX is really in a price/performance point of its own...
--Chris
I was thinking about the Rane RPM26z because it has a digital input and volume control, however, in a previous thread someone explained that volume control wasn't full range or something.
I'd be willing to spend a kilobuck on a good digital crossover that had volume control if it meant I could dispense with a preamp.
At this point I'm going to get some resistors to attenuate the amp side and upgrade my grounded grid pre to 12AT7s for increased gain.
I did play with the auto-correct function but I'm not sure if I did it right. I believe I told it to correct polarity but it failed to do so.
I'd be willing to spend a kilobuck on a good digital crossover that had volume control if it meant I could dispense with a preamp.
At this point I'm going to get some resistors to attenuate the amp side and upgrade my grounded grid pre to 12AT7s for increased gain.
I did play with the auto-correct function but I'm not sure if I did it right. I believe I told it to correct polarity but it failed to do so.
ultrachrome said:
Here is the way I made it work :
0 Setup x-overs... you need to re-run auto-correct if you change the x-overs
1 Enable Auto Correct
2 Set volume relativly loud (it needs to be well above the noise floor to work properly
3 enable only the polarity correction, leave all others off
4 unmute all speakers
5 let it do its thing
6 repeat steps 1-5 but select short-delay instead of polarity
7 enjoy the results
Just be sure you do each adjustment individually or you end up with some strange results. Also, did you attenuate the midrange at all? I need to back this up with some FR measurements with speakerworkshop but I think the ribbon/pr170 sounds most natural if i attentuate the midrange 1.5-1.8db on the DCX.. I think you mentioned that you were attaching your DCX setup but I didn't see any attachments???
--Chris
Yesterday evening I got the tweeter flush mounted, hogged out my midrange cutout, added a 35 degree bevel on the vertical edges, and added some feet. The speaker wasn't very stable on my shag.
The the gf is a little happier with the look.
Today, I'm going to get rid of the EQ I'm using for dipole compensation and try a passive line level low pass crossover.
Attached is my current DCX config file.
The the gf is a little happier with the look.
Today, I'm going to get rid of the EQ I'm using for dipole compensation and try a passive line level low pass crossover.
Attached is my current DCX config file.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Banned
Joined 2002
Thanks. I'm also not sure if I like the way it looks yet. It is only my test baffle and I have a girlfriend to please.
The system is currently tri-amped with a Behringer DCX2496 crossover. The plan is to replace the behringer with an active two-way feeding the woofers and a passive two-way for the mid and tweeter.
The system is currently tri-amped with a Behringer DCX2496 crossover. The plan is to replace the behringer with an active two-way feeding the woofers and a passive two-way for the mid and tweeter.
Banned
Joined 2002
At least yours is clean mine is messy but my gf likes my speakers. soon to be finished too.
http://jleaman.ath.cx/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core:ShowItem&g2_itemId=80
http://jleaman.ath.cx/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core:ShowItem&g2_itemId=80
There's a reason why I cropped my photo. The living room is a disaster of cables, cd's, etc.
I like the shape of your speakers and if was doing non-dipole, I'd probably curve the sides. But since mine are dipole and I'm using 12" woofers, I don't know if I would have the space. As you can see the back edge of my speaker is about an inch from the fireplace mantle.
They're 7' feet a part but I have to sit 11' away. My room is funny that way.
I like the shape of your speakers and if was doing non-dipole, I'd probably curve the sides. But since mine are dipole and I'm using 12" woofers, I don't know if I would have the space. As you can see the back edge of my speaker is about an inch from the fireplace mantle.
They're 7' feet a part but I have to sit 11' away. My room is funny that way.
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