I just did a little experiment with parts i had handy. An FE206e, a ceramic magnet about the same diameter of the backplate & about the same thickness of the 206 magnet.
Below are Fuzzmeasure generated data, for stock, w magnet (attract / series), and w magnet (repel / bucking -- note that it repels until it gets real close then sucks right on)
Fs/Qm/Qe/Qt
stock 44.52 / 5.58 / 0.36 / 0.34
attract 44.50 / 5.74 / 0.42 / 0.39
repel 44.33 / 5.56 / 0.33 / 0.31
dave
Below are Fuzzmeasure generated data, for stock, w magnet (attract / series), and w magnet (repel / bucking -- note that it repels until it gets real close then sucks right on)
Fs/Qm/Qe/Qt
stock 44.52 / 5.58 / 0.36 / 0.34
attract 44.50 / 5.74 / 0.42 / 0.39
repel 44.33 / 5.56 / 0.33 / 0.31
dave
I have two FE164's back-to-back and they repel until the centers are far apart (then they snap together).
The measurements for the "stock" FE206E sure are off from the spec sheet, which has:
Qms: 3.73, Qes: 0.18, Qts: 0.18
Would these differences be explained by the presence of cone surface mods on your driver, maybe?
Fostex specs:
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/fe206erev.pdf
The measurements for the "stock" FE206E sure are off from the spec sheet, which has:
Qms: 3.73, Qes: 0.18, Qts: 0.18
Would these differences be explained by the presence of cone surface mods on your driver, maybe?
Fostex specs:
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/fe206erev.pdf
Thanks for all your replies, especially Scott. From reading all the posts on this forum, it appears there is agreement that the Austin A126 is the best enclosure design for the FE126E given standard room size/placement.
Unfortunately, I need something smaller and will have to accept compromises. So far I have built the standard Fostex recommended 10.5L bass reflex enclosure tuned to 61hz, a 6.7L bass reflex enclosure tuned to 92hz, and even a sealed 2L enclosure for comparison. The 6.7L enclosure works OK. However, I do not like the inarticulate resonating bass sound from the ports.
I am still playing with the idea of a paper mache back loaded horn, but it would be difficult to get the mold shape precise. Basswood carved in sections would be great or solid wire copper soldered to a shape could work. I am still stuck at the design stage though and learning how to use Hornresp software. I am trying to see if a 1/2 wave horn with a compression ratio between 1:1 and 2:1 would work. I think it will be too big though and take to much time to make. At this high design level, an enclosure is much more akin to musical instrument making, not box building.
As such, I may try to adapt the Fonken or miniOnken enclosures (http://www.planet10-hifi.com/fonken.html) to work with the FE126E . I am curious about their near aperiodic design. I have some 1/2" 11 ply baltic birch that could be used. Has anyone tried this? Maybe there is an answer in the other threads. Please help.
Unfortunately, I need something smaller and will have to accept compromises. So far I have built the standard Fostex recommended 10.5L bass reflex enclosure tuned to 61hz, a 6.7L bass reflex enclosure tuned to 92hz, and even a sealed 2L enclosure for comparison. The 6.7L enclosure works OK. However, I do not like the inarticulate resonating bass sound from the ports.
I am still playing with the idea of a paper mache back loaded horn, but it would be difficult to get the mold shape precise. Basswood carved in sections would be great or solid wire copper soldered to a shape could work. I am still stuck at the design stage though and learning how to use Hornresp software. I am trying to see if a 1/2 wave horn with a compression ratio between 1:1 and 2:1 would work. I think it will be too big though and take to much time to make. At this high design level, an enclosure is much more akin to musical instrument making, not box building.
As such, I may try to adapt the Fonken or miniOnken enclosures (http://www.planet10-hifi.com/fonken.html) to work with the FE126E . I am curious about their near aperiodic design. I have some 1/2" 11 ply baltic birch that could be used. Has anyone tried this? Maybe there is an answer in the other threads. Please help.
schn0354 said:
Then you need a corner horn, since horn size is directly related to required mouth and corner allows 1/8 mouth
Yes. It doesn't work. Other than a horn, the 126 OB or aperiodic with bass help below its roll-off corner. IMHO this is best done in conjunction with biamping.
An SDX7 sealed + FE126 would work out fine & pretty small.
dave
schn0354 said:
Well, not all of us have tried every iteration of Scott's designs for the FE126, so any sentence on a DIY site that includes both "it appears there is agreement"
- (the consensus could change from day to day) "that the X-box is the best enclosure for X-driver" could engender some lively discussion, particularly from commercial designers who see everything that happens on that big network of tubes. . As others will have said, the Fonken series have been fairly well optimized for the FE127E's parameters, and when you say that you "need something smaller, and will have to accept compromises", can I assume that room size and/or WAF are included in the calculus?
If so, then I humbly proffer for consideration that the time and expense involved in perhaps several iterations of "compromised" or bass augmented systems (with the attendant cost of X-O and amps) could well be greater than starting from a clean slate, with a driver more well suited to enclosures small enough for your situation.
The Floorstander Fonken has a teeny footprint (smaller than the standard Fonken on any type of stand), can virtually disappear, and comes fairly close to the subjective musicality of the Fonken. We have yet to take measurements of the FS version.
Brynn, with FE126E and some series R could work well enough, and she has a cute little footprint.
FE126E in Fonken
Well, I built one MDF test enclosure according to the Fonken drawings. You guys say it is not a good match for the FE126E. I do not doubt your experience from experimentation. I am aware a back loaded horn is best due to the low qts and .3 mm xmax, but I just had to hear the difference myself as I have nothing to compare it to.
Compared to the Fostex recommended 10.5 L bass reflex @ 61Hz and a 6.7 L bass reflex design @ 92 Hz, the Fonken enclosure sounds dramatically better. The midrange is more clear, and the low end is extended and very musical. Tracks with bass cello and bass guitar sound good. I was surprised by the amount and quality of bass. As a side benefit, the efficiency is also increased. I would really like to hear it with the more appropriate FE127E. Now if this were for home use, I would simply build the A126 design. I do hope to do this within the next year and that is the main reason for experimentation with this driver.
Unfortunately it is designed as a self contained portable music device (CD player/radio) to go in a road truck at my father's work. None of the tractor trailers have radios and none can be permanently installed per company policy. No Ipods are allowed for obvious safety reasons and all they have is 12 volt power lead to tap into. I considered 4 ohm auto speakers, but almost everything is designed for infinite baffle (mounted on doors or parcel shelf) or with large 30 L sealed enclosures. Efficiency and quality is also poor on most auto speakers. The FE126E drivers are supplied with a CD player from a 2006 Toyota Corolla purchased for less than $50. Volume is more than adequate for a small room, less a small truck cabin with 5 - 15 watts RMS. Call me crazy, but my father is tired of silence.
Well, I built one MDF test enclosure according to the Fonken drawings. You guys say it is not a good match for the FE126E. I do not doubt your experience from experimentation. I am aware a back loaded horn is best due to the low qts and .3 mm xmax, but I just had to hear the difference myself as I have nothing to compare it to.
Compared to the Fostex recommended 10.5 L bass reflex @ 61Hz and a 6.7 L bass reflex design @ 92 Hz, the Fonken enclosure sounds dramatically better. The midrange is more clear, and the low end is extended and very musical. Tracks with bass cello and bass guitar sound good. I was surprised by the amount and quality of bass. As a side benefit, the efficiency is also increased. I would really like to hear it with the more appropriate FE127E. Now if this were for home use, I would simply build the A126 design. I do hope to do this within the next year and that is the main reason for experimentation with this driver.
Unfortunately it is designed as a self contained portable music device (CD player/radio) to go in a road truck at my father's work. None of the tractor trailers have radios and none can be permanently installed per company policy. No Ipods are allowed for obvious safety reasons and all they have is 12 volt power lead to tap into. I considered 4 ohm auto speakers, but almost everything is designed for infinite baffle (mounted on doors or parcel shelf) or with large 30 L sealed enclosures. Efficiency and quality is also poor on most auto speakers. The FE126E drivers are supplied with a CD player from a 2006 Toyota Corolla purchased for less than $50. Volume is more than adequate for a small room, less a small truck cabin with 5 - 15 watts RMS. Call me crazy, but my father is tired of silence.
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