If anyone is interested in the DIYfidelity resistors they do accept paypal payments. I'm getting one!
It seems to be stereo because on the second page of the assembly instructions it shows two in and two out pins, but there is only one ground... is this OK?
Oh, and thank you for the nice, detailed suggestions!
It seems to be stereo because on the second page of the assembly instructions it shows two in and two out pins, but there is only one ground... is this OK?
Oh, and thank you for the nice, detailed suggestions!
Here is a link to a stepped attenuator that uses SMD resistors.
http://www.dact.com/html/attenuators.html
Looks nice, a bit pricey though at around $180 USD on the DIYcable site. They also sell a remote control attenuator kit for a whopping $405 USD
.
http://www.dact.com/html/attenuators.html
Looks nice, a bit pricey though at around $180 USD on the DIYcable site. They also sell a remote control attenuator kit for a whopping $405 USD
.To IndyAudi
This is stereo attenuator
To Nuuk
I've checked on Australia Post site and postage (economy air) to UK is A$8. Same postage for US.
To Kanaddict
First step doesn't have series resistor, just 1 paralell to GND, thus 22*4+2=90
The attenuator is not silky smooth as DACT (in mechanical terms), but it's not bad either. Just a tad notchy. Sound is very,very good. It's mutch better than ALPS and lightyears ahead of any graphite pot.
This is stereo attenuator
To Nuuk
I've checked on Australia Post site and postage (economy air) to UK is A$8. Same postage for US.
To Kanaddict
First step doesn't have series resistor, just 1 paralell to GND, thus 22*4+2=90
The attenuator is not silky smooth as DACT (in mechanical terms), but it's not bad either. Just a tad notchy. Sound is very,very good. It's mutch better than ALPS and lightyears ahead of any graphite pot.
I ordered the 50K one because that's what Jan from 41 Hz (to whom I bought the AMP3 kit) says it's suitable... Should I just change my order? What difference can it make to have 10, 25 or 50 The sound volume will just increase faster or slower at each position of the attenuator or is there more to it? If someone can clarify this so that I can still chage my order if necessary, as they will only be shipping monday.
Thanks
The sound volume will just increase faster or slower at each position of the attenuator or is there more to it? If someone can clarify this so that I can still chage my order if necessary, as they will only be shipping monday.Thanks
I like these PEC pots but I've only been able to find the 1 watt 20K mono military ones
as below.
If anyone can point me in the right direction for the 2 watt stereo ones I would be very
appreciative.
http://www.precisionsales.com/precomp.html
as below.
If anyone can point me in the right direction for the 2 watt stereo ones I would be very
appreciative.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.precisionsales.com/precomp.html
vmac011 said:
I have found Dale resistors to be very clean and neutral sounding so am not surprised at your post.
Years ago the DACT attenuators also were very notchy. I fixed them by putting in lighter detent springs. Later Elma offered this as an option on there switches and DACT has used this lighter version ever since. I would think the same fix could be done to this switch. Just make sure the springs are equal if it uses 2 and strong enough to keep it from hanging between positions. While you have it open spray the inside liberally with WD40 and it will keep working properly for many years.
Roger
The attenuator is aprox. 40-45mm in diameter. There are two ways of assembling.
1. as shown on DIYFidelity site http://www.diyfidelity.com.au/product_info_more.php?assembly=attenuator_assembly2.php&products_id=32
2. as per picture below. This way you save few MM in diameter.
vmac011 said:
Thanks !
I'll ask them to solder it for me. They charge $20.40 AUD. Knowing me, it would take me more then hour to sorlder it and make sure that each value are at the right place. So, one hour of my time worth the extra $20.40 AUD
The attenuator would fit in the case I saw last fryday in a surplus store ($10) . It's a stong metal case that would need an appropriate face plate. For my GC chassis, I used a video recorder case and I made the face plate with wood and it look very good. This time I'm stugling with myself, doing the same kind of DIY chassis or buying a nice chassis. A DIY chassis would cost me about $30 and an aluminium chassis with the knobs would cost me about $130. Making the chassis, I would save $100, but the amp won't look so good
There is not much peoples who see my system....if I buy the nice chassis, it would be for my own pleasure Thanks again !
Daniel
There was a very thorough discussion about these Dale-based attenuators a while back when everyone was making Gainclones.
A lot of folks got really excited about them because the offered very good performance for the price. As people started buying and using them, though, many discovered that the switch would often produce loud popping/ electrical switching noises when switched (and not necessarily at all rotational positions) that, when amplified, was sufficiently annoying that they eventually switched to something else. It was even determined that the switches were make-before-break types, so the culprit was thought to have been contact damage from excessive heat when the technician assembled them.
There was some fear, as well, that the loud pulse could damage high efficiency speakers.
I bought one of these before all this came to light, but I haven't had the chance to use it, yet.
It would be very useful to hear if anyone is still experiencing this type of popping on the more recent units being purchasing.
Apart from the popping, these attenuators were said to sound very good.
Best,
KT
A lot of folks got really excited about them because the offered very good performance for the price. As people started buying and using them, though, many discovered that the switch would often produce loud popping/ electrical switching noises when switched (and not necessarily at all rotational positions) that, when amplified, was sufficiently annoying that they eventually switched to something else. It was even determined that the switches were make-before-break types, so the culprit was thought to have been contact damage from excessive heat when the technician assembled them.
There was some fear, as well, that the loud pulse could damage high efficiency speakers.
I bought one of these before all this came to light, but I haven't had the chance to use it, yet.
It would be very useful to hear if anyone is still experiencing this type of popping on the more recent units being purchasing.
Apart from the popping, these attenuators were said to sound very good.
Best,
KT
Popping noises
The noise is generated from a voltage transient being generated and fed to the input. This can be caused by 2 things;
1) There is DC present on the volume controls input,
2) The switch opens up while switching between steps.
1 can be fixed by tracking it down and eliminating the source. A quick and dirty solution would be to add film caps into the path before the control.
2 can be fixed with a good replacement that doesn’t open up or a 27k res. can be added from the output to ground thus preventing it from ever opening all the way.
Roger
The noise is generated from a voltage transient being generated and fed to the input. This can be caused by 2 things;
1) There is DC present on the volume controls input,
2) The switch opens up while switching between steps.
1 can be fixed by tracking it down and eliminating the source. A quick and dirty solution would be to add film caps into the path before the control.
2 can be fixed with a good replacement that doesn’t open up or a 27k res. can be added from the output to ground thus preventing it from ever opening all the way.
Roger
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