rob3262 said:
There is no speaker that I know of designed like this. There are two- and three way designs, but not with these drivers.
I'm just planning to play around with the drivers I've got.
Since I know approximately zip about the design issues with the TL I was just curious to see if it was possible at all to build the box this way.
Hi Scottmoose,
After reading many threads, websites and reviews over a number of weeks I have finally decided to construct an Ariel/small thor speaker to your design as described in the "Ariel Construction" thread
I wish to do this to keep the L Olsen's original Driver selection, xover and clear precise sound but enhance the bass by using the ML-TL as you described ( and it will be much simpler to construct!!)
When I compared the The Ariel 6c drawing to that produced by Dave (to your spec) I noticed the following changes to the internal dimensions
Ariel 6c 6.5" W x 10.75 D x 48.5" H
Small Thor 7.5" W x 11.25 D x 48.5" H
I wish to keep the Ariel speaker layout and xover but I would be greatful if you could help/recommend a course of action for the following queries that I have:
Q1. If I reduce the width of the Small Thor to that of the Ariel do I then need to compensate by changing the other cabinet dimensions? and if so what should they be?
Q2. Maintain the small Thor dimensions and recalculate the position of the speakers using the golden ratio?
If my speakers are half good as the examples that I've seen on this site I will be more than happy, from the images they look better finished that speakers costing several thousands of pounds and all the constructors should be proud of themselves.
If you guys are interested I could post some photos as I progress
I look forward to your reply
Regards
After reading many threads, websites and reviews over a number of weeks I have finally decided to construct an Ariel/small thor speaker to your design as described in the "Ariel Construction" thread
I wish to do this to keep the L Olsen's original Driver selection, xover and clear precise sound but enhance the bass by using the ML-TL as you described ( and it will be much simpler to construct!!)
When I compared the The Ariel 6c drawing to that produced by Dave (to your spec) I noticed the following changes to the internal dimensions
Ariel 6c 6.5" W x 10.75 D x 48.5" H
Small Thor 7.5" W x 11.25 D x 48.5" H
I wish to keep the Ariel speaker layout and xover but I would be greatful if you could help/recommend a course of action for the following queries that I have:
Q1. If I reduce the width of the Small Thor to that of the Ariel do I then need to compensate by changing the other cabinet dimensions? and if so what should they be?
Q2. Maintain the small Thor dimensions and recalculate the position of the speakers using the golden ratio?
If my speakers are half good as the examples that I've seen on this site I will be more than happy, from the images they look better finished that speakers costing several thousands of pounds and all the constructors should be proud of themselves.
If you guys are interested I could post some photos as I progress
I look forward to your reply
Regards
Karl,
Are you tired of your Thors' already? and have you canabilized them for your future project?
New speaker project layout reminds me of this: (JK)
On a thread related note, I started building my new X-overs for my small Thors. About Damn time! Things move slowly for some of us.....
Pictures when I'm done.
Ron
Are you tired of your Thors' already? and have you canabilized them for your future project?
New speaker project layout reminds me of this: (JK)
On a thread related note, I started building my new X-overs for my small Thors. About Damn time! Things move slowly for some of us.....
Pictures when I'm done.
Ron
Attachments
Renron,
not at all. I'm really happy with them. I'm just itching to build something and I think it's an interesting idea if it's possible to get the box right.
From what I've understood the MLTL is dependant on the distance between the drivers and the port. Which perhaps would make it possible to fold the box in order to get it shorter.
But then again - perhaps not.
not at all. I'm really happy with them. I'm just itching to build something and I think it's an interesting idea if it's possible to get the box right.
From what I've understood the MLTL is dependant on the distance between the drivers and the port. Which perhaps would make it possible to fold the box in order to get it shorter.
But then again - perhaps not.
Finished one of two boxes today.
It's very hard to see, but there is a clear Lexan cover on the box above the crossover components. To keep little fingers out.
I was hoping that UPS would deliver the silver coated copper 20ga wire today so I could rewire the drivers inside my speakers, maybe on Monday. I can't wait to give them a listen. The crossovers are bi-wired with seperate grounds because my AQ speaker cable is designed that way.
Ron
It's very hard to see, but there is a clear Lexan cover on the box above the crossover components. To keep little fingers out.
I was hoping that UPS would deliver the silver coated copper 20ga wire today so I could rewire the drivers inside my speakers, maybe on Monday. I can't wait to give them a listen. The crossovers are bi-wired with seperate grounds because my AQ speaker cable is designed that way.
Ron
Attachments
last one
Back side, or bottom however they end up fitting best.
Still in shock how big those Obbligato caps are....
They were all burn in for 1 week prior to installation.
Please no flames, if you don't agree caps burn in then fine, leave me to enjoy my delusions while I talk to Harvey the rabbit......
Ron
Back side, or bottom however they end up fitting best.
Still in shock how big those Obbligato caps are....
They were all burn in for 1 week prior to installation.
Please no flames, if you don't agree caps burn in then fine, leave me to enjoy my delusions while I talk to Harvey the rabbit......
Ron
Attachments
Forgivness requested
Camaudio,
I just re-read the last few pages of this thread, I realize I was rude to you with my post #817. I apologize for for my curtness. You were just making a joke. I was too dumb to realize it at the time. Damn, I can't even blame it on beer as I don't drink.
Apology offered.
Ron
Camaudio,
I just re-read the last few pages of this thread, I realize I was rude to you with my post #817. I apologize for for my curtness. You were just making a joke. I was too dumb to realize it at the time. Damn, I can't even blame it on beer as I don't drink.
Apology offered.
Ron
Ron,
Looking at your new crossovers makes me glad I've chosen to go full active!
Those things are huge
and the caps are rated to 630vDC? Holy cow! How many amps have greater than 100v rails? even with back-emf and solar wind it would be unlikely to come close to 50% of that voltage rating. They do look nice though... Did you get a listen yet?
Looking at your new crossovers makes me glad I've chosen to go full active!
Those things are huge and the caps are rated to 630vDC? Holy cow! How many amps have greater than 100v rails? even with back-emf and solar wind it would be unlikely to come close to 50% of that voltage rating. They do look nice though... Did you get a listen yet?
rob3262 said:Ron,
Looking at your new crossovers makes me glad I've chosen to go full active!
Did you get a listen yet?
Rob,
Yeah, Agreed. I thought about going active and came pretty close to going that route, but was shut down by the dreaded WAF! She has enough troubles deciphering the compendium of stereo / video components we have now. ......and I just added an OPPO BD-83 that needs it's own remote.
After voicing the new crossovers the speakers are in an entirely different class. Very rich and full sound while being able to pick out each instrument on the sound stage. Depth, width. height and tonality (timber) were increased. I had Clarity SA caps with Goertz coils in the original crossover and it sounded extremely detailed and somewhat glairy on the high end.
With the new XO the detail is lessened by the richness of the midbass, my wife, who has better ears than I, says the sound is like a soft warm rain. I think it has a warm tube aire kinda presence. No subwoofer needed for stereo listening.
How do you describe sound..........?
The interior of the XO box is 8x12 it's a big box but will hide behind / inside the next entertainment center, it does not bother me, it's pretty cool looking I think. Tony Gee gave the Obbligato caps a 10 rating and has nice things to say about their "sound". I'm very happy with the Obbligatos especially considering their price point compared to a Mundorf Supreme Silver/oil which were rated about the same.
Happy Camper,
Ron
Hi
I am new to DIY speakers and could use some help.
I am ready to build the Fat Thor cabinets and I have a few questions before I start.
I have the upgraded Xovers from Madisound and would like to know the best place to put them, as these are down firing and I won't be able to mount them under the cabinets?
These will be used on a rug so is down firing a good idea? Or should I build a differant version. I want good bass.
Anyone have any ideas on how the make the pedestals, pictures would be great?
I am sure I will have some more questions later on .
Thanks
Frank
I am new to DIY speakers and could use some help.
I am ready to build the Fat Thor cabinets and I have a few questions before I start.
I have the upgraded Xovers from Madisound and would like to know the best place to put them, as these are down firing and I won't be able to mount them under the cabinets?
These will be used on a rug so is down firing a good idea? Or should I build a differant version. I want good bass.
Anyone have any ideas on how the make the pedestals, pictures would be great?
I am sure I will have some more questions later on .
Thanks
Frank
Help with Thor's
Frank,
By stating "downfiring" I guess you are referring to the "port"?
If yes, then the next question I have is how close to the rear and corner walls do you intend to place the speakers?
You will find that the "Fat Thors" will have PLENTY of Bass for stereo listening. Still will need a sub for movie FX duties though.
If you can live with external crossovers that is the recommended location from those of us with experience in speaker building.
If you can't live with an external Xover then you'll find plenty of room inside the "Fat" Thor's box to locate the XOs. Be warned and make sure you can access them later when you want to tweak the parts, ie: voice the speakers.
I have voiced mine and they are superb!
Just for sheep (auto edit won't let me say the word that rhymes with hit) and grinns, what brands are the inductors & capacitors in the "upgraded" XOs? Settle down folks,.............I'm just askin'
Keep us informed with your progress.
Ron
fc911c said:
Frank,
By stating "downfiring" I guess you are referring to the "port"?
If yes, then the next question I have is how close to the rear and corner walls do you intend to place the speakers?
You will find that the "Fat Thors" will have PLENTY of Bass for stereo listening. Still will need a sub for movie FX duties though.
If you can live with external crossovers that is the recommended location from those of us with experience in speaker building.
If you can't live with an external Xover then you'll find plenty of room inside the "Fat" Thor's box to locate the XOs. Be warned and make sure you can access them later when you want to tweak the parts, ie: voice the speakers.
I have voiced mine and they are superb!
Just for sheep (auto edit won't let me say the word that rhymes with hit) and grinns, what brands are the inductors & capacitors in the "upgraded" XOs? Settle down folks,.............I'm just askin'
Keep us informed with your progress.
Ron