Want to break the speakers in?
Step 1. Get yourself a copy of Pink Floyd's Live at Pompii, The Prodigy's The Fat of the Land and Massive Attack's Mezzanine. Then play, & crank up the volume. A couple of days of this treatment & you'll be a goodly way on the way, and at a position where you can move to...
Step 2. Go to Tom Danley's site; specifically here: http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/technical downloads.html read the note (& warning), download the sound-files, especially the fireworks, burn to a CD, and play. Gently. For the love of heaven go careful with the Fireworks -as TD notes, compression doesn't come into the equation: it's got a 70db dynamic range, peak to peak & is one of the most fearsome tests you will ever come across. 15in woofers the world over tremble at its name. You can slowly raise the volume, but keep a very close eye & ear on the drivers.
These recordings will do more to get your driver's suspension loosened up than anything else on the planet.
I talked to professional speaker builder/driver constructor about burning in procedures.
He said that the most important notes was to:
Play it like you normally do
Don't play too long each time
Let the drivers cool off properly in between session
Ha said that the two major components affected by burn-in is the driver suspension and the glued parts. By letting the speaker work and cool off the glued parts settles nicely and is also hardened in an appropriate matter. The first 40 hours should take about 7 days.
He said that the most important notes was to:
Play it like you normally do
Don't play too long each time
Let the drivers cool off properly in between session
Ha said that the two major components affected by burn-in is the driver suspension and the glued parts. By letting the speaker work and cool off the glued parts settles nicely and is also hardened in an appropriate matter. The first 40 hours should take about 7 days.
I don't know what type of glue you used but that dry time seems exsessive. What brand of glue did you use?
I use TiteBond 3 WaterProof. As a professional General Contractor I have used many brands and this one always has worked well for me.
This is from Titebonds website:
What is the clamping and drying time of Titebond Wood Glues?
For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours. For Titebond Polyurethane Glue, we recommend clamping for at least forty-five minutes. The glue is completely cured within 6 hours.
Six hours, At Lake Tahoe temperatures in the winter it never took longer than overnight to dry.
If the glued parts move after the glue has dried the bond will be broken and the joint will fail.
Perhaps I have misunderstood what was meant with the 40 hours and 7 days dry (break in time),
Could you please explain, why the long dry-time?
Ron
I use TiteBond 3 WaterProof. As a professional General Contractor I have used many brands and this one always has worked well for me.
This is from Titebonds website:
What is the clamping and drying time of Titebond Wood Glues?
For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours. For Titebond Polyurethane Glue, we recommend clamping for at least forty-five minutes. The glue is completely cured within 6 hours.
Six hours, At Lake Tahoe temperatures in the winter it never took longer than overnight to dry.
If the glued parts move after the glue has dried the bond will be broken and the joint will fail.
Perhaps I have misunderstood what was meant with the 40 hours and 7 days dry (break in time),
Could you please explain, why the long dry-time?
Ron
The main construction has been finished.
Perhaps just a word on my setup before I give my opinions. I run an HTPC based setup, with an EMU1212m running with ASIO through foobar as source. That is fed directly into my leach power amps.
VERY happy with the resulting sound. Bass is present in large quantities matching my Jamo D 590's, but it is a very different kind of bass. Very defined, tight and smooth.
Mids and tops are also good, but then that was to be expected. I don't hear any of the harshness others have described
Will begin veneering tomorrow
To follow a few highlights from the main build...
Perhaps just a word on my setup before I give my opinions. I run an HTPC based setup, with an EMU1212m running with ASIO through foobar as source. That is fed directly into my leach power amps.
VERY happy with the resulting sound. Bass is present in large quantities matching my Jamo D 590's, but it is a very different kind of bass. Very defined, tight and smooth.
Mids and tops are also good, but then that was to be expected. I don't hear any of the harshness others have described
Will begin veneering tomorrow
To follow a few highlights from the main build...
Attachments
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Some listening impressions so far:
They sound great!
Although I'm severly biased, I still need to say it.
Compared to the original design, my smallThors with jimangie1973's XO:s they have a silkier treble, a cleaner and faster midrange and the bass is not from the same world! Strong, deep and very fast.
This is a measurement I did yesterday in my living room. Perhaps it says mora about the room, but at least it confirms there is deep bass.
Audibly it's strong down to 25Hz, 20 is weaker and 16 is very weak indeed. Not bad and a considerable difference from the original design.
Some listening impressions so far:
They sound great!
Although I'm severly biased, I still need to say it.
Compared to the original design, my smallThors with jimangie1973's XO:s they have a silkier treble, a cleaner and faster midrange and the bass is not from the same world! Strong, deep and very fast.
This is a measurement I did yesterday in my living room. Perhaps it says mora about the room, but at least it confirms there is deep bass.
Audibly it's strong down to 25Hz, 20 is weaker and 16 is very weak indeed. Not bad and a considerable difference from the original design.
Byrd said:
Thats some serious work. Impressive.I relied on the glue.
Byrd said:
Me too. I used this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
