I just received my order and hooked it up to a 12V battery supply, using the optical input from my DVD/SA-CD player. It sounds better than the player's internal DAC, which is what I was looking for.
I'm now debating whether to modify it as Franz has done, or leave it stock, in the box, with a rechargable battery supply. I am leaning toward no mods, at least at first.
I'm now debating whether to modify it as Franz has done, or leave it stock, in the box, with a rechargable battery supply. I am leaning toward no mods, at least at first.
analog_sa said:
Oh no! somewhat OT, but I just posted about modding a DITB.
Worse than any CD player you've owned? Which players?
Mine is fed from a PC (via a 'prosumer' audio card with good SPDIF), and generally it sounds very sweet to me and to most 'lay-people' who visit (an opera-buff I know absolutely loves listening to my rig) - it does at least some of the important things, such as timbre and female vocals, very well.
Definitely lacks deep bass and dynamics, I'd agree, but I'd much rather have 'musical' than 'hifi' sound, and I'm sure some modding could liberate a great deal more from it (an dual 18-bit R2R isn't to be sneezed at, IMO)
The output caps seem to be 4.7uF, so they should be large enough unless you are driving a very low load impedance. Other than the major series of mods described earlier in this thread, I doubt that any small mod would make a difference.
Apparently running it from a battery supply is recommended. That is what I plan to do.
Apparently running it from a battery supply is recommended. That is what I plan to do.
I just bought Dac in the boxDac In The Box
just to try out the hype with DAC's.
The sound was impressing against the analoge out.
But i found it sounding to much in the bass.
Now i dont have any experience of all those OP amps
but the LT1364C dont realy is the best for me i think.
Somehow the inner detail was lost but the treble was much
better, more softer, not so harch.
Sure a benefit with the Amp6 basic i run it true.
As a start in DAC this is realy great but if i want to move on
with another DAC and a different OP amp?
What are you experience of OP amps?
If i found this getting to much bass?
Solve
just to try out the hype with DAC's.
The sound was impressing against the analoge out.
But i found it sounding to much in the bass.
Now i dont have any experience of all those OP amps
but the LT1364C dont realy is the best for me i think.
Somehow the inner detail was lost but the treble was much
better, more softer, not so harch.
Sure a benefit with the Amp6 basic i run it true.
As a start in DAC this is realy great but if i want to move on
with another DAC and a different OP amp?
What are you experience of OP amps?
If i found this getting to much bass?
Solve
Question about Masi's output stage
Hi to everybody, I am new on this forum.
@ masi: I am messing around with the USB Version of this DAC, The PRO.DAC USB. As far as I can judge, the findings in this thread apply mostly also to this version.
I am powering it with a DY 7812 based linear supply.
I have the impression that in the standard configuration the lower frequencies get distorted at higher levels, and would therefore like to also add an external line stage with a dual-rail powered Op-Amp, to see if there is an improvement.
May I ask you if you have some findings from testing your mod? Would you recomend it? could you disclose some details on the circuit you have built?
Hi to everybody, I am new on this forum.
@ masi: I am messing around with the USB Version of this DAC, The PRO.DAC USB. As far as I can judge, the findings in this thread apply mostly also to this version.
I am powering it with a DY 7812 based linear supply.
I have the impression that in the standard configuration the lower frequencies get distorted at higher levels, and would therefore like to also add an external line stage with a dual-rail powered Op-Amp, to see if there is an improvement.
May I ask you if you have some findings from testing your mod? Would you recomend it? could you disclose some details on the circuit you have built?
masi said:It took a while to get my AC-voltage problem fixed - but it’s finally done.
Removing the four small SMD Caps in the output stage located on the bottom side of the board solved the problem.
I’ve e-mailed Eddie Wu about this issue. He told me it was the first time something like that happened and my purchase wouldn’t be charged.
Yesterday I’ve added an external output stage (a simple op amp based differential amplifier, +/- 12V supply). Although I first intended to keep everything inside the tiny little box I thought it might be better to redesign the analog section to get rid of the coupling capacitors. Well, first listening impressions confirmed that it’s been a worthwhile modification.
I'll do some serious listening tests next days ...
Regards, Mario
Hi mimax
Welcome to the community
The circuit I built is straight forward with the least possible part count, not because that's what I consider to be best, just because it saved time.
It's a very textbook differential amp directly attached to the DAC outputs. No coupling caps, no lowpass filtering, only one additional resitor at the opamp output (100-200 Ohm). The opamp in charge is a NE5532.
Sound quality even in this basic setup definitly tops the original. So, I really recommend to twaek it.
Since I never used it in its original setup I can't comment on high level distorions. Maybe somebody else can.
Regards, Mario
Welcome to the community
The circuit I built is straight forward with the least possible part count, not because that's what I consider to be best, just because it saved time.
It's a very textbook differential amp directly attached to the DAC outputs. No coupling caps, no lowpass filtering, only one additional resitor at the opamp output (100-200 Ohm). The opamp in charge is a NE5532.
Sound quality even in this basic setup definitly tops the original. So, I really recommend to twaek it.
Since I never used it in its original setup I can't comment on high level distorions. Maybe somebody else can.
Regards, Mario
Hello all, I'm new to the forums as well. I was happy to see that others had bought this and found it to be a pretty good little dac. i used it in a set up in my mom's house where I ran coax spdif from her computer through the attic and into the back of her entertainment center.
after about a year, the thing crapped out on me, though. I opened it up (should have just sent it back for the warranty) and found out that the regulator was dead. So I ordered a replacement and stuck it on. But there was another problem. There is a short somewhere, and the regulator gets very hot before it turns itself off.
Any tips on where I can find this short? Could it be one of the crystal chips failed? I was going to buy a new one, but it would be so much cheaper to fix.
Bill
after about a year, the thing crapped out on me, though. I opened it up (should have just sent it back for the warranty) and found out that the regulator was dead. So I ordered a replacement and stuck it on. But there was another problem. There is a short somewhere, and the regulator gets very hot before it turns itself off.
Any tips on where I can find this short? Could it be one of the crystal chips failed? I was going to buy a new one, but it would be so much cheaper to fix.
Bill
Guys,
I also just bought the USB version with CS4398 DAC. I powered it with the supplied 24V SMPS. It does not sounds quite good, with bloated lower end and can be quite harsh sometimes. The internal Lm317 regulator supplying 5V to all IC except opamps (24V) generate too much heat, which I think won't be reliable in the long run. To reduce the regulator heat, it need to be powered with lower supply e.g. 12V battery (opamp might not work in optimum). I've taken measurement at the output of the supplied SMPS. The high frequency ripple is very high. No good.
Isn't CS4398 the most high end DAC from Cirrus Logic? It can't be so bad after all I think. So I cut off the internal LM317 and the diode accross it to seperate 5V supply from 24V. Build an external 20V and 5V LM317 inductor regulated supply for the 24V SMPS and scrap the LT opamp for LM4562. Now most of the high frequency ripple had gone and boy the sound is very nice! The bass has tighthen up, harshness gone, vocal has more body and very good stereo seperation too. My next step would be to power the 5V regulator with a 12V SLA battery and increase the opamp supply to 36V, which will be optimum for LM4562.
I also found that when I use the USB input, it produces an anoying clicking sound whenever I skip to next song. Also does anyone know what is the function of the RJ45 port next the USB port?
Regards.
I also just bought the USB version with CS4398 DAC. I powered it with the supplied 24V SMPS. It does not sounds quite good, with bloated lower end and can be quite harsh sometimes. The internal Lm317 regulator supplying 5V to all IC except opamps (24V) generate too much heat, which I think won't be reliable in the long run. To reduce the regulator heat, it need to be powered with lower supply e.g. 12V battery (opamp might not work in optimum). I've taken measurement at the output of the supplied SMPS. The high frequency ripple is very high. No good.
Isn't CS4398 the most high end DAC from Cirrus Logic? It can't be so bad after all I think. So I cut off the internal LM317 and the diode accross it to seperate 5V supply from 24V. Build an external 20V and 5V LM317 inductor regulated supply for the 24V SMPS and scrap the LT opamp for LM4562. Now most of the high frequency ripple had gone and boy the sound is very nice! The bass has tighthen up, harshness gone, vocal has more body and very good stereo seperation too.
My next step would be to power the 5V regulator with a 12V SLA battery and increase the opamp supply to 36V, which will be optimum for LM4562. I also found that when I use the USB input, it produces an anoying clicking sound whenever I skip to next song. Also does anyone know what is the function of the RJ45 port next the USB port?
Regards.
Ipanema said:Guys,
I also just bought the USB version with CS4398 DAC. I powered it with the supplied 24V SMPS. It does not sounds quite good, with bloated lower end and can be quite harsh sometimes. The internal Lm317 regulator supplying 5V to all IC except opamps (24V) generate too much heat, which I think won't be reliable in the long run. To reduce the regulator heat, it need to be powered with lower supply e.g. 12V battery (opamp might not work in optimum). I've taken measurement at the output of the supplied SMPS. The high frequency ripple is very high. No good.
Isn't CS4398 the most high end DAC from Cirrus Logic? It can't be so bad after all I think. So I cut off the internal LM317 and the diode accross it to seperate 5V supply from 24V. Build an external 20V and 5V LM317 inductor regulated supply for the 24V SMPS and scrap the LT opamp for LM4562. Now most of the high frequency ripple had gone and boy the sound is very nice! The bass has tighthen up, harshness gone, vocal has more body and very good stereo seperation too.
I also found that when I use the USB input, it produces an anoying clicking sound whenever I skip to next song. Also does anyone know what is the function of the RJ45 port next the USB port?
Regards.
After using this DAC for a while would you recommend it to other users? I email you directly so far no response.
Hi ttan98,
Sorry, I seldom check the email on my profile.
I would said it is a good DAC with USB input to boot. I'm just curious to try out CS4398 when I made the decision to buy it.
Ifyou buy it, try to use lower supply voltage e.g. 12V from SLA battery to avoid heat problem. If you don't mind to mess it up, an external seperate supply to both DAC and opamp would further improve the sound. There is an empty DIL opamp slot on the PCB, where you can put in a nice socket to test out your favourite opamp. But you need to take out the LT opamp first.
This one look much better design but it uses only CS4397 and no USB input.
http://cgi.ebay.com/24bit-192KHz-DA...ryZ14978QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Regards.
Sorry, I seldom check the email on my profile.
I would said it is a good DAC with USB input to boot.
I'm just curious to try out CS4398 when I made the decision to buy it.Ifyou buy it, try to use lower supply voltage e.g. 12V from SLA battery to avoid heat problem. If you don't mind to mess it up, an external seperate supply to both DAC and opamp would further improve the sound. There is an empty DIL opamp slot on the PCB, where you can put in a nice socket to test out your favourite opamp. But you need to take out the LT opamp first.
This one look much better design but it uses only CS4397 and no USB input.
http://cgi.ebay.com/24bit-192KHz-DA...ryZ14978QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Regards.
Ipanema said:Hi ttan98,
Sorry, I seldom check the email on my profile.
I would said it is a good DAC with USB input to boot.
Ifyou buy it, try to use lower supply voltage e.g. 12V from SLA battery to avoid heat problem. If you don't mind to mess it up, an external seperate supply to both DAC and opamp would further improve the sound. There is an empty DIL opamp slot on the PCB, where you can put in a nice socket to test out your favourite opamp. But you need to take out the LT opamp first.
This one look much better design but it uses only CS4397 and no USB input.
http://cgi.ebay.com/24bit-192KHz-DA...ryZ14978QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Regards.
thanks, questions please,
1. the battery input to the box is 12V right?,
2. to supply separate power to DAC and op amp, do you have cut tracks? I think this DAC's weakness is the power supply.
3. I saw your Ebay suggestion, it has separate power supply and use an older decoder. I don't think it matters that much. It could be a good option. It is cheap as well.The problem is that not many people have try it. I don't know anyone.If it sound as good as DAC in the box I will go for it.
Hi ttan98,
Regards.
Yes, 12V. The internal LM317 will regulate 12V to 5V. The DAC will still work until the SLA battery drops below 8V.
External supply to LM317 is through a diode. You need to cut off the diode to seperate the supply. Use 12V to feed LM317 directly and external regulated supply to opamp through the DC in. For me, I remove the internal LM317 and use external regulated supply for both DAC and opamp. If you would like to use the supplied SMPS 24V wallwart, you need to use LC filter to get clean supply.
If you don't need the USB input option, you can try this one. From the picture, it seems to be a better design and also more room for tweaking later. If you get this one, pls post us your test result.
Regards.
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