Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it

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doctormord

doctormord

Member
Joined 2007
360customs.de
irribeo said:
Yes and there might be an ultimate upcoming by doxtormord&co ??? But not likely to have Oscons I guess.
Click to expand...

Nope, i'd choosen 2x EEHZA1V271P for the next board.

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They will literally last forever.

The OS_CON SVPK do less ripple current at nearly the same price. From the measurements, bulk capacitor brand/type/capacitance isn't a show stopper if they're somewhat low ESR with 100uF per side. No need to spend extra dollars here. :D

The choosen EEHZA1V271P is just the best i can actually get for a reasonable price. No snakeoil whatsoever. The leak current also is much lower than for organic caps.

I.e. The 35SVPK330M 330uF 35V leaks 2.3mA after 2 minutes, while the EEHZA1V271P does only 0.01*CV = 0.01 * 270uF * 35V = 0.095mA. That's a huge difference when running from battery.
 

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G

Gregje

Member
Joined 2009
Hi,

I have bough some time ago this red board from ayanhu81 shop on ebay.
DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Dual Channel Stereo 50W*2 BTL Mono 100W Audio Amplifier Board | eBay
I have seen some people in this thread using this board with satisfaction.
Well I experience quite audible hum and hiss. Hiss is audible only close to tweeters but hum is audible from the listening position.
Has anybody experienced this? Is the gain too high? Does anybody know how to change it?

Another thing maybe not related: I tried a number of smps: meanwell 24V 100W and a bunch of 12V laptop bricks of various amperage. Meanwell is fine but I do not think I need mch power, so I want to use a smaller laptop ps. Some (except for one) of the laptop bricks cause the amp to produce high pitch sound (probably above 10kHz), one brick (5A) was producing interrupted sound as if the thing turning on and off all the time... Finally I do not observe any correlation between the price and behaviour of the bricks.
 
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Gregje

Member
Joined 2009
Ok. Removed the heatsink and inspected resistors connected to pin 7 and 8 (39K and 100k). That is 39dB gain according to TI specs sheet. Removed both and replaced 39K with 4.7k and open (specs says 5.6k and open to get 20dB - didn't have 5.6k in smd format).
Hum is gone:)
Pics will follow once the e-mail from my phone gets to my comp:confused:

I will investigate the weird ps bricks again. Cannot find them now. They were here an hour ago...
 
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Gregje

Member
Joined 2009
This is how is looks like under the heat sink. The resistor are between the chip and the input socket. In this is group of 3 smd elements the bottom one is a capacitor, the middle one R6 is 39k and the top one R9 is 100k. As I said, the 100k goes, 39K gets replaced. And I am a happy camper.
 

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irribeo

Member
Joined 2013
The added "bootstrap" snubber just above your post is useless or probably worse.
Replace inductors, adjust gain, check for funny parts (wrong value parts in random positions). Cutting groundplane connection from signal ground to powersupply ground is easy, adding a compact "bootstrap" snubber isn't easy. Temperature of ampboard gets down when replacing electrolytics for lower impedance ones. Consensus is you should check/fix your Wiener :)
 
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