European taxes (hate them...)
Does anyone know how much the possible taxes can be when you import a nice chassis from Peter???
I put myself up in the Wiki, but I jope the taxes won't double the real cost...
Peter, maybe you can label it as made from leftovers, old ML parts, driftwood, unused aircraft parts etc..
Does anyone know how much the possible taxes can be when you import a nice chassis from Peter???
I put myself up in the Wiki, but I jope the taxes won't double the real cost...
Peter, maybe you can label it as made from leftovers, old ML parts, driftwood, unused aircraft parts etc..
Hmm. I agree with Zeno, Peter - I would have preferred you keep the price down as much as possible (without skimping, of course). I have no opinion about the copper center bar because I don't need it, but I think a 1/4" front panel is absolutely fine, as is 1/8" rear panel. In fact, the RCA's I plan to use won't fit a 3/16" panel.Peter Daniel said:
As for knobs, the ML is definitely my vote, if made 1.25" dia. Second choice would the Classe knob, but as BrianGT says, they need to be made shorter. Otherwise, I have some really nice knobs here that I would use. I'll try and post a pic later... Now did I miss something in the thread here... are the knobs a separate purchase, or included in the chassis price?
BTW... the finish on those panels looks great!
I don't mean to be a pest, but I think the internal panels really don't need to be anodized. In fact, I'm pretty sure a better thermal contact for heatsinking can be made without the anodized surface layer.
However, again about keeping the price down...Peter Daniel said:
I don't mean to be a pest, but I think the internal panels really don't need to be anodized. In fact, I'm pretty sure a better thermal contact for heatsinking can be made without the anodized surface layer.
Re: European taxes (hate them...)
I don't have problem with declaring anytrhing you want on the package. When shipping that type of stuff, I usually say No Commercial Value (but I can also declare any price value that you wish).
The difference in price on adding 1/16 of panel thickness is only $2, so I don't even think twice about it. 1/8 flat extrusion is rarely perfectly flat, so thicker rear panel provides better chances of getting things in shape. And frankly, I'm not aware of any RCA that is not compatible with 3/16 panel thickness.
It is actually more expensive to anodise one side only, as masking is required.
zeno said:
I don't have problem with declaring anytrhing you want on the package. When shipping that type of stuff, I usually say No Commercial Value (but I can also declare any price value that you wish).
hifiZen said:
The difference in price on adding 1/16 of panel thickness is only $2, so I don't even think twice about it. 1/8 flat extrusion is rarely perfectly flat, so thicker rear panel provides better chances of getting things in shape. And frankly, I'm not aware of any RCA that is not compatible with 3/16 panel thickness.
It is actually more expensive to anodise one side only, as masking is required.
Re: Re: European taxes (hate them...)
Well, I'm aware now I just checked the short Cardas RCAs and they fit 1/8 panel properly and using 3/16 would be pushing it too much.
I will make the panel 1/8 then. Good you mentioned that
It will also be easier for everybody to drill, if that's required.
Peter Daniel said:
Well, I'm aware now
I just checked the short Cardas RCAs and they fit 1/8 panel properly and using 3/16 would be pushing it too much.I will make the panel 1/8 then. Good you mentioned that
It will also be easier for everybody to drill, if that's required.
Re: Re: Re: European taxes (hate them...)
WRT anodizing, I didn't mean partial anodizing. What I meant was that we don't need any anodizing at all on parts that never see the light of day... e.g. the internal H-frame pieces. Of course the top, bottom, front and back would be fully anodized in all areas except the hole where they connect the electrode... I always understood that part.
Sorry to continue being a pest...
Yep, those are the ones I have. Actually, I didn't realize the difference in panel cost was so small, and SC makes a good point about drilling a recess in the backside. I'll also be missing the center bar, so more stiffness isn't a bad thing... I'm not concerned about drilling difficulty. I think there's not much difference between 1/8 and 3/16 in that regard.Peter Daniel said:
Well, I'm aware now
I will make the panel 1/8 then. Good you mentioned that
It will also be easier for everybody to drill, if that's required.
WRT anodizing, I didn't mean partial anodizing. What I meant was that we don't need any anodizing at all on parts that never see the light of day... e.g. the internal H-frame pieces. Of course the top, bottom, front and back would be fully anodized in all areas except the hole where they connect the electrode... I always understood that part.
Sorry to continue being a pest...
Here's how it looks after installation. The nut is slightly recessed and it actually looks better this way.
So it's up to you guys, what thickness to use for rear panel. Personally, I would go with with a thinner plate. If someone IS using short Cardas RCAs, I can make similar recess as part of my special services (free of charge of course
So it's up to you guys, what thickness to use for rear panel. Personally, I would go with with a thinner plate. If someone IS using short Cardas RCAs, I can make similar recess as part of my special services (free of charge of course
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Here's a photo of some nice knobs I have. The two on the left are from a local shop, about $14 CAD apiece, they are made in Japan and beautifully machined. The middle knob is about 1.25" dia, and has two set screws (much better than only one set screw).
The knob on the right is a Kilo knob, 0.75" dia, as that was the largest size digikey carried... again, it has two set screws. Kilo also makes knobs in the same style as the one on the left and the ML knobs, though I think I prefer the actual ML knob over the one in this pic and also the Kilo version... the ML has nicer proportions.
The knob on the right is a Kilo knob, 0.75" dia, as that was the largest size digikey carried... again, it has two set screws. Kilo also makes knobs in the same style as the one on the left and the ML knobs, though I think I prefer the actual ML knob over the one in this pic and also the Kilo version... the ML has nicer proportions.
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I just measured them with a caliper. The far left one is 28mm and the middle one is 29.5mm dia., so about 1.10" and 1.16", respectively.
I bought those about three years ago, and they've been sitting in my parts bin, awaiting a worthy project. I'll have to go visit the store again and see if they still carry them, and at what price etc. Perhaps the owner would be willing to sell a bunch, though I'm not sure I'm up for another big group order any time soon...
I bought those about three years ago, and they've been sitting in my parts bin, awaiting a worthy project.
I'll have to go visit the store again and see if they still carry them, and at what price etc. Perhaps the owner would be willing to sell a bunch, though I'm not sure I'm up for another big group order any time soon... - Status
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