Chassis Discussion

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We're still waiting on some special stickers from FedEx which are required to actually do the chassis shipping, but we do now have approval to go ahead, so I'm going to make the new store live. Consider it "beta" until further notice and please report any problems or oddities to support@diyaudiostore.com.

If you're skittish about using beta software, I'd suggest waiting a week until any (inevitable) problems have been ironed out. I won't be doing any sort of promotion of the store until it's been proven in the field :)

Many apologies for the slow launch and thanks for your support!

The new store URL is: http://www.diyaudiostore.com
 
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We're still waiting on some special stickers from FedEx which are required to actually do the chassis shipping, but we do now have approval to go ahead, so I'm going to make the new store live. Consider it "beta" until further notice and please report any problems or oddities to support@diyaudiostore.com.

If you're skittish about using beta software, I'd suggest waiting a week until any (inevitable) problems have been ironed out. I won't be doing any sort of promotion of the store until it's been proven in the field :)

Many apologies for the slow launch and thanks for your support!

The new store URL is: The diyAudio Store – diyAudio Store (BETA)

Well, I just ordered a deluxe 4U, back panel kit and milled handles...Hopefully that was a real order! I just read this post after I ordered....:eek:

Russellc
 
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Can I get a description of the store "base plate" please (4u type)? Solid plate by what thickness and what is purpose? Is the bottom cover not sufficient for mounting boards and PT?

Thanks,
Jim

Great question.

Per: Chassis Baseplate – diyAudio Store (BETA)

"All baseplates are made of 1.2mm galvanized iron. The holes are spaced in a convenient 10mm x 10mm pattern and have diameter 4mm."

The material of the bottom cover depends on which chassis you choose. Some covers are 1mm steel (with paint added it's around 1.5mm) and some are 3mm aluminium. Some covers have 4 rows of holes for ventilation and some covers have 6 rows of holes. This information is in the specification section of the chassis, under the photos and option selection. The covers are all made of flat material. The baseplates have had flanges/flaps created by bending the edges in order to create more rigidity.

The covers in the Deluxe are aluminum with 6 rows - they have a bit more flex than the regular ones because we've chopped out more of the cover for ventilation, and aluminum was chosen because it has better electro-acoustic properties. For this reason, the 1.2mm galvanized iron baseplate with flanged edges makes a great choice for somewhere to put heavy transformers etc. With the Deluxe we decided to go for no-compromise - aluminum, as much air flow as possible and also a firm base to support the heaviest of transformers.

The baseplate also has 4mm dia holes in a 10mm x 10mm pattern. This makes it pretty simple to design things that can screw straight in. And if you need to rotate anything 90', that's no problem because it's an even grid. There is an odd total number of holes across the baseplate, so the exact center of the chassis baseplate has holes in it - this is by design so that it's easy to screw a PT straight into the exact center of the baseplate using the existing holes (you might need to route the hole out a bit but you've got a great pilot hole :). Almost all the diyAudio Store PCBs, such as the PSU board, use 10mm x 10mm mounting holes, so they can all screw straight in without any drilling. So, compared to using the cover to mount things on, the drilled baseplate makes your life a lot easier. It also means you don't end up with a lot of ugly holes in the cover of your chassis.

It's a matter of personal preference, and depends on how heavy your PT is, what else is in there, what your cooling requirements are, if you are going to use feet or just have it sitting flush, etc, so I don't think I can give an answer that will always be correct as it depends on your requirements.

PS I just noticed in the descriptions the 1mm panels are described as 1.5mm - I will correct that so all measurements are for the raw material used not the measured thickness after painting.
 
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6L6

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Base plate clearly visible in this photo - (and black aluminum bottom cover not installed)

IMG_3384.jpg
 
I want to use one of the DIYAudio chassis for a Tubelab SSE amp. I'd like the height to be as low a possible but the triad choke and motor run cap that are also part of the build so I imagine a 2U height chassis is the lowest I should order. Am I correct on that?

Also...is there any the chassis can be ordered with a 2 or 3 mm top plate with only mounting holes?
 
Using these Chassis with Lazy Cat's First One Amp modules...

I am building a First One v1.4 Amp designed by diyAudio member Lazy Cat.

I am wondering which of the diyAudio Chassis is needed for this build.

I have ordered the parts for a stereo build, yet I may add two more modules later on for a completed four channel amp.

According to Lazy:

"I suppose you could install 4 FO modules, just be aware that one FO module sinks 280 mA at idle, so the idle power dissipation has to be calculated and taken into account at specific chassis thermal capability."

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/248996-first-one-mosfet-amplifier-module-225.html

I am looking at the Dissipante xU series...

Which one would work for a stereo build?
Four channel?
and Six channel? :cool:

If this has been discussed already,:eek: then I apologize and a link is all that is needed.

I would like to post this information on Lazy's thread to help others who are considering these chassis for their First One builds.

Thank You for any suggestions You have. ;)
 

6L6

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Joined 2010
Paid Member
The 4U/300mm would be more than enough for 2 channel, and I suspect would be fine for 4, assuming you don't have very inefficient speakers and like to listen really loud...

Personally, I'd build in 3U and just use a 2nd chassis for the next 2 channels. Of course, it's a lot more expensive that way...
 
Switches things on and off again
Joined 2000
Paid Member
I want to use one of the DIYAudio chassis for a Tubelab SSE amp. I'd like the height to be as low a possible but the triad choke and motor run cap that are also part of the build so I imagine a 2U height chassis is the lowest I should order. Am I correct on that?

Also...is there any the chassis can be ordered with a 2 or 3 mm top plate with only mounting holes?

We are working on this. You should be able to make such an order customisation within a week or so.
 
Thanks 6L6

Personally, I'd build in 3U and just use a 2nd chassis for the next 2 channels. Of course, it's a lot more expensive that way...

I am all for one 3U chassis per stereo amp if that is the right size to get the full potential out of the First One modules (v1.4 Medium version) Is there any benefit to using the 4U for a 2 channel amp or is it completely overkill? I like the size of the 3U and I think a stack of 3U First Ones would look very nice. :D

Thanks
 
Which 3U?

6L6, You recommended the 3U chassis for a stereo build, which depth? 300 mm or 400 mm?

The 3U 400 mm has about a square inch less (1500 mm^) heat sink area then the 4U 300 mm chassis, but do I need that much to get the full potential from the modules? Price is not a factor.

Thanks again