I like it. Went out and copied it right away!
Used six 6-32 x 1/2" socket head screws per side.
BK
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I know, and I tried! Unfortunately my local supplier only had zinc coated shown my pic at something like $0.45 per piece. Will likely update to black oxide at some later date.
BK
It would be appreciated if you could add the suggested amplifier power ratings for each of the chassis on the store page.
I've done my own calculations but sometimes it's nice to have confirmation.
Also I noted in an earlier post that Modu were going to have external testing done on the heatsinks but not sure if the figures quoted in the store are the initial or the 'tested' ones.
The store also only quotes figures for the 4U and 5U chassis and not 2U and additionally Modu quote figures for each of 200mm heatsinks (under accessories) on their website as used in the 4U and 5U chassis (0.38 and 0.28 respectively per heatsink apparently - and one guesses 2 by 200mm heatsinks per side for 400mm?) - which differ from the DIYaudio shop figures of 0.38 and 0.28 (assuming this is 'per 400mm side'?)
So, all in all, somewhat confusing :-(
I've done my own calculations but sometimes it's nice to have confirmation.
Also I noted in an earlier post that Modu were going to have external testing done on the heatsinks but not sure if the figures quoted in the store are the initial or the 'tested' ones.
The store also only quotes figures for the 4U and 5U chassis and not 2U and additionally Modu quote figures for each of 200mm heatsinks (under accessories) on their website as used in the 4U and 5U chassis (0.38 and 0.28 respectively per heatsink apparently - and one guesses 2 by 200mm heatsinks per side for 400mm?) - which differ from the DIYaudio shop figures of 0.38 and 0.28 (assuming this is 'per 400mm side'?)
So, all in all, somewhat confusing :-(
Hi Tony. Please see:
40mm Heatsink Information
"The 4U 300mm contains two heatsinks are each is rated at 0.31 C/W
The 5U 400mm contains four heatsinks and each is rated at 0.28 C/W"
The exact calculations are too complex for us to do more than just quote the stats we have and post what is known to work, but you'll notice on pages like this:
Deluxe 4U "Jack of all Chassis" (All Aluminum) - Full width with 40mm Heatsinks - Chassis
We have "Ideal for..." where we have got confirmation that a design works well in reality so we can put our confidence in the recommendation.
Hi Jason,
Thanks for the quick reply however if one doesn't want to use the 5U and build one of the amps mentioned then one's a bit stuck.
Anyway, I've put together the following table from available data which is hopefully correct which may be of use to members.
Disipante Height (mm) °C/W per H/S # Heat Sinks °C/W per side
2U (300) 80 0.45 1 0.45
2U (400) 80 0.67 2 0.34
3U (300) 120 0.40 1 0.40
3U (400) 120 0.50 2 0.25
4U (300) 165 0.31 1 0.31
4U (400) 165 0.38 2 0.19
5U (300) 210 0.20 1 0.20
5U (400) 210 0.28 2 0.14
If there are errors, or anyone has better information, please chime in.
Edit: Apologies, I had set the information out in a tabular format but it didn't materialise once posted. so to read e.g.:
Disipante 2U (400mm depth)
Height: 80 mm
°C/W per heatsink: 0.67
# of heatsinks per side: 2
Total °C/W per side: 0.34
Cheers
Thanks for the quick reply however if one doesn't want to use the 5U and build one of the amps mentioned then one's a bit stuck.
Anyway, I've put together the following table from available data which is hopefully correct which may be of use to members.
Disipante Height (mm) °C/W per H/S # Heat Sinks °C/W per side
2U (300) 80 0.45 1 0.45
2U (400) 80 0.67 2 0.34
3U (300) 120 0.40 1 0.40
3U (400) 120 0.50 2 0.25
4U (300) 165 0.31 1 0.31
4U (400) 165 0.38 2 0.19
5U (300) 210 0.20 1 0.20
5U (400) 210 0.28 2 0.14
If there are errors, or anyone has better information, please chime in.
Edit: Apologies, I had set the information out in a tabular format but it didn't materialise once posted. so to read e.g.:
Disipante 2U (400mm depth)
Height: 80 mm
°C/W per heatsink: 0.67
# of heatsinks per side: 2
Total °C/W per side: 0.34
Cheers
Last edited:
The 4U is good for the HoneyBadger, F5, F4, Aleph J, and any Burning Amp with 3 pair of devices per channel.
The 5U is Necessary for a F5Tv2(Stereo), a Burning Amp with more than 3 pair/channel, and a Monoblock F5Tv3.
Of course, there is no such thing as too much heatsink, especially for a class-A amp, so you could build any of the amps in the 5U.
Which I've recently found out having assembled by first Class A (15W JLH running at 1.6 amps) mounted to a 1.2°C/W heat sink (ambient at around 20°C).
The heat sink runs up to 92°C after about 1/2 hour. Good place to keep your coffee hot.
I had purchased the 2U (300mm) direct from Modu for this project but it's now being redesigned for a 'universal' power supply and I'll look at something bigger for the JLH 15W and an Hiraga 30W
I just recently bought the 5U deluxe version. Couple suggestions for future improvement: the holes on the mounting panel should be 4.5mm to accommodate easy installation of M3 clinch nuts: McMaster-Carr. Holes on the 4 holding bars should be 5.5mm for similar M4 nuts McMaster-Carr. It would also be great to get a bunch of these nuts along with the nice screws like McMaster-Carr in the set.
I'd like to do the same to my chassis, but have a question. How did you fasten the socket head screws? I don't see any nuts to tighten it down...did you use a special drill bit?
Did you also keep the silver steel piece that extends along the heatsink attached and drilled through it and then the heatsink to keep the holes aligned?
Thx
Neville
Yes, disassemble the case but keep the silver bracket bolted to the heatsink and drill new holes from the bracket side. Remove the silver bracket and tap threads in the silver bracket. Enlarge holes in the heatsink to accept the screws. Reattach the silver bracket using socket head screws. No nuts are used.
BK
drill
I put a hole in the lower right of the diyAudio 4U front panel for an LED lamp. I countersunk a hole in the back of the front panel for the LED holder.
To do this successfully, you need a stable drill press and very sharp bits. A hand drill and old dull bits is a plan for disaster. I practiced the cut on a piece of scrap aluminum first.
I put a hole in the lower right of the diyAudio 4U front panel for an LED lamp. I countersunk a hole in the back of the front panel for the LED holder.
To do this successfully, you need a stable drill press and very sharp bits. A hand drill and old dull bits is a plan for disaster. I practiced the cut on a piece of scrap aluminum first.