Hi, I am normally in the car audio section, but have a home audio question. I had a Sunfire Super Junior 8". I was very impressed with it. I know Bob Carver's Sunfire brand builds the amp/cabinet, but who is the maker of the actual subwoofer? Are they available by themselves? Where? ... Thanks in advance...
What about this?
http://sound.westhost.com/linkwitz-transform.htm
and this...
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-intro.htm
Get your tools then
Mike
http://sound.westhost.com/linkwitz-transform.htm
and this...
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-intro.htm
Get your tools then
Mike
Makes sense. I read the above info. (partways) And will finish the read later tonight or tomorrow. Lots of good stuff in there. But I would still like to know who made the 8". That 8" sure got off. Would like to put a lot of them into a vehicle. I have a 32" subwoofer as my home audio sub. Use it in my shop at the moment. Just put a 34" sub into the car too. I like big subs, but the 8" sure impressed me. I like it loud, and 20 of those in a small car would do the trick. Or just two with a ton of power.
I sold Bob Carver an audio analyzer 2 years ago on Ebay. I don't think I have his email anymore, but will try to find it on Google. I thought I would try here first so I didn't have to bug him. I am sure he is a busy guy... But will keep checking back daily on this thread till I get a chance to hunt him down. Hopefully someone will know more about the Sunfire subs. Thanks everyone...
I sold Bob Carver an audio analyzer 2 years ago on Ebay. I don't think I have his email anymore, but will try to find it on Google. I thought I would try here first so I didn't have to bug him. I am sure he is a busy guy... But will keep checking back daily on this thread till I get a chance to hunt him down. Hopefully someone will know more about the Sunfire subs. Thanks everyone...
Hi tomtomjr,
They need tons of power to make them go. Surely you want to use efficient speakers in a car. Power is not your friend in speakers.
What you want is good excursion with whatever TS parameters you are looking for. These sub boxes simply treat the driver as a piston, they ignore Thiel and Small completely. The result is that they depend on brute force.
Your car amps may be rated for some high power rating, but this generally ain't so. Even with Class D, you can only draw so many watts from a car electrical system. You are not going to win that battle I don't think.
Have you compared this driver to one with a known efficiency? That might be a good first step.
As for contacting Bob Carver, just use his Sunfire email. No biggie.
-Chris
They need tons of power to make them go. Surely you want to use efficient speakers in a car. Power is not your friend in speakers.
What you want is good excursion with whatever TS parameters you are looking for. These sub boxes simply treat the driver as a piston, they ignore Thiel and Small completely. The result is that they depend on brute force.
Your car amps may be rated for some high power rating, but this generally ain't so. Even with Class D, you can only draw so many watts from a car electrical system. You are not going to win that battle I don't think.
Have you compared this driver to one with a known efficiency? That might be a good first step.
As for contacting Bob Carver, just use his Sunfire email. No biggie.
-Chris
anatech said:
I have plenty of power. I agree on drawing only so much power, but that is the fun of it. Doing the best you can with what you have. I have not done any major comparison side by side with this sub. I have heard it against my Velodyne 12" and a few others. This was a few years ago, but the Sunfire impressed me more than the others. The size is just so small. Enclosure is 11x11x11. Weight was about 40-lbs I think (enclosure, sub, ect). And is scooted across the floor. Had to reposition it after playing it hard since if moved. I like doing projects of car audio and have been doing it for approx 25 years. Since getting out of the car audio/home audio business, I mainly collect vintage and "odd" car audio. But do have a project going where I took the smallest Honda I could find (1972 Honda Z600) and put a 34-inch, 211-LB subwoofer into it. Granted, it is not going to be a high end sound quality system, but will suit my tastes for the odd and unusual. Still under construction. I will put some links below. Overall, I am just wanting to put together another project. When this one is done with the big subwoofer, the 8" idea looks like it would be a neat idea. One or two 8" subs, tons of power, moving massive amounts of air. Not for the purist, but for me and my oddball audio projects, it fits right in. Will contact Bob this week. I appreciate the input...
LINK TO VINTAGE / ODD CAR AUDIO COLLECTION (museum)
http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg278/tomtomjr/CAR AUDIO/?start=all
LINK TO MY CAR WITH 34-INCH SUBWOOFER (measures 36-inches)
http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg278/tomtomjr/1972 Honda Z600 Car/?start=all
LINK TO VIDEO OF SUBWOOFER IN ACTION (crappy vid, by you get the idea)
http://www.youtube.com/user/tomtomjr
tsmith1315 said:
Don't put it past tomtomjr.
If you're willing and able, there are alternators out there capable of 250+ amps real output, and that's rated at working temperatures. If you need more than that, use multiple units. Of course, that does soak up horsepower.
Hi Tim, Didn't know you cruised the home audio too. Cool. I am visiting here to figure out my next project. Took about 3 years to get together the current one. Figured if I start on a new one now (getting everything together) , I would have a jump on it... One or two 8" subs doing hair tricks... That would be a neat one...
Hi Tim,
I worked a great deal in the automotive sound area. Back when Alpine was just introduced and Marantz had some nice decks. Concord was another good brand back then. I had to fix all the botched installs and abused amps that came our way. It wasn't very pretty.
Even back then, most bigger systems were up against the issues surrounding high, high current flow. Everyone seemed to be fixated on getting and using as much power as they could. Not many figured out the secret of using efficient drivers in proper box volumes. Those systems sounded a lot better and were easier on the car too. I think the downfall of car audio (as opposed to noise) were those darn crank-em ups. The public didn't know what hit them and bought right into that stuff.
-Chris
The laws of physics = a boiling battery if he is successful. I guess that ultimately means it's not workable (= failure).
I worked a great deal in the automotive sound area. Back when Alpine was just introduced and Marantz had some nice decks. Concord was another good brand back then. I had to fix all the botched installs and abused amps that came our way. It wasn't very pretty.
Even back then, most bigger systems were up against the issues surrounding high, high current flow. Everyone seemed to be fixated on getting and using as much power as they could. Not many figured out the secret of using efficient drivers in proper box volumes. Those systems sounded a lot better and were easier on the car too. I think the downfall of car audio (as opposed to noise) were those darn crank-em ups. The public didn't know what hit them and bought right into that stuff.
-Chris
Hi tomtomjr,
I used to do warranty service on the Carver subs and have seen the Sunfire subs apart. Those woofers are pretty stiff outside the box too! The problem is the insane power they use to drive those subs. I think you should measure the SPL of each to get some comparison.
I really like the sound of motoring along in a '62 'Vett. They were nice roadsters back then. The newer ones are nice to drive too.
-Chris
I used to do warranty service on the Carver subs and have seen the Sunfire subs apart. Those woofers are pretty stiff outside the box too! The problem is the insane power they use to drive those subs. I think you should measure the SPL of each to get some comparison.
8" drivers can work really well. One fella put together a small pickup (B-2200?) using 16 Peerless 8" woofers and a couple tweeters. He took the sound quality all summer and SPL for about 3/4 of that summer. I told him to leave the system off until the SPL competition and he gained 2 dB approx. compared to when you used to roll in with the tunes rock'in. After a while his competition figured this out. Each woofer went into a 1 cu ft sealed box.
I really like the sound of motoring along in a '62 'Vett. They were nice roadsters back then. The newer ones are nice to drive too.
-Chris
Hi Chris,
Man, don't get me started. Fighting that mentality is pretty much what drove me to leave the business. Imagine trying to sell real HiFi at WalMart? Frustrating, but there were a few who got it.
I was just getting my feet wet then, 1980 or so. Started building proper enclosures in 1985. Few installers would listen to physics even then. My favorite quote: "You gotta have a deep box to get deep bass."
It's a must to use a battery that will accept the charge rate of the more potent alternator, and multiple batteries must be in equivalent condition. At such current levels, everything in the system requires critical attention. But it really can work.
I have a close friend in the high-output alternator business, and he was successful. I've designed a few integration tidbits for him over the years. His first prototype unit is still in his own car, untouched since 1990.
Hey tomtom.
Yep, I at least lurk regularly in most all forums except class D, digital, and video. Music and audio is a passion after all. I'll hush before I get us thrown out of here and back into car audio
When you get a plan together, post it for us all to admire!
Man, don't get me started. Fighting that mentality is pretty much what drove me to leave the business. Imagine trying to sell real HiFi at WalMart? Frustrating, but there were a few who got it.
I was just getting my feet wet then, 1980 or so. Started building proper enclosures in 1985. Few installers would listen to physics even then. My favorite quote: "You gotta have a deep box to get deep bass."
It's a must to use a battery that will accept the charge rate of the more potent alternator, and multiple batteries must be in equivalent condition. At such current levels, everything in the system requires critical attention. But it really can work.
I have a close friend in the high-output alternator business, and he was successful. I've designed a few integration tidbits for him over the years. His first prototype unit is still in his own car, untouched since 1990.
Hey tomtom.
Yep, I at least lurk regularly in most all forums except class D, digital, and video. Music and audio is a passion after all. I'll hush before I get us thrown out of here and back into car audio
When you get a plan together, post it for us all to admire!
About 14 years ago Bob came to one of our audiophile meetings to debut his new sub. It was his first, the one with 2 10" (he said 7") drivers, one passive, one active.
I asked him if I could buy one of the drivers, he said $100 IIRC, I never followed through, LOL...
Seriously though, those are some real inefficient drivers. They are eq'd to death and given gobs of power. You could do so much more for less if you just made proper sized boxes...
There are a lot of car audio drivers out there that have similar stroke to his drivers. I think if you look around you could find something....
I a pretty sure they are just a over-hung design with a long voice coil and alot of throw....
I asked him if I could buy one of the drivers, he said $100 IIRC, I never followed through, LOL...
Seriously though, those are some real inefficient drivers. They are eq'd to death and given gobs of power. You could do so much more for less if you just made proper sized boxes...
There are a lot of car audio drivers out there that have similar stroke to his drivers. I think if you look around you could find something....
I a pretty sure they are just a over-hung design with a long voice coil and alot of throw....
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