That is a blanket statement and is not true in many cases. If you can provide the the T/S parameters for your driver, some of us can give you a solution. Perhaps Arty has them but would like to see the response curves as to see why it would be considered dreadful.
in a 30 L sealed box it can manage a decent ~55 hz at -3 dBL , and can handle 140 watt input without getting into trouble. But, the response is like a hill,
55 hz to 78 hz it has a big jump , past +3 dBL, then it falls down 3 dBL when it hits 160 hz.
so it could be described as a bump, nothing more. with a passband of 55 to 160 hz, a huge lump with roughly 3 dBL peak.
in a car this would be good, the cabin gain would aid it to get reasonably low, and it can handle power.
now, what about 62 liter sealed?
it will get down to 42 Hz, that is on par with 6.5" inch midbass units. so not a subwoofer to be honest. The "lump" response does get to be elongated witch is verry nice, but the powerhandling drops down to 65 watt at best under 40 Hz.
at best with its 87 dBL sensitivity you should not expect more than about 103 or 104 dBL or so , and thats all.
Still not a subwoofer, maybe a bass speaker. Still not loud, and still big.
the thing is, this can be done with a 6.5" midbass unit in half the box size.
so why bother with this unit ?
55 hz to 78 hz it has a big jump , past +3 dBL, then it falls down 3 dBL when it hits 160 hz.
so it could be described as a bump, nothing more. with a passband of 55 to 160 hz, a huge lump with roughly 3 dBL peak.
in a car this would be good, the cabin gain would aid it to get reasonably low, and it can handle power.
now, what about 62 liter sealed?
it will get down to 42 Hz, that is on par with 6.5" inch midbass units. so not a subwoofer to be honest. The "lump" response does get to be elongated witch is verry nice, but the powerhandling drops down to 65 watt at best under 40 Hz.
at best with its 87 dBL sensitivity you should not expect more than about 103 or 104 dBL or so , and thats all.
Still not a subwoofer, maybe a bass speaker. Still not loud, and still big.
the thing is, this can be done with a 6.5" midbass unit in half the box size.
so why bother with this unit ?
R1S412 is not suited for ported boxes.
maybe one can get away with a 4th order bandpass, but it would be.. HUGE , least to say. and would have a group delay so high, you would rather be deef than to listen to that.
the amount of delay correction and other additional circuitry would anytime question the project.
why not just use car speakers in a car, i must ask?
they where designed to work there properly, i don't see the need to force them to do something they where never ment to.
maybe one can get away with a 4th order bandpass, but it would be.. HUGE , least to say. and would have a group delay so high, you would rather be deef than to listen to that.
the amount of delay correction and other additional circuitry would anytime question the project.
why not just use car speakers in a car, i must ask?
they where designed to work there properly, i don't see the need to force them to do something they where never ment to.
a quick addition ,
DLD 500+
DLD 500+ - DLD Shop
could be used in a house. 65 ish liter, tuned to something like 38 hz might work.
but just might.
still would have a 24ms group delay or so around 34 hz, but.. its a narrow peak, and its at a quite low freq, it may get away with it without busting the bass into pieces.
a solid 105 DBL at 30 hz with a clean 150 watt amp is about what i would expect from this driver. this is roughly the -3DBL point too.
70 usd for this driver makes it a good choice, but do notice:
i did not try it. i have no idea how accurate are the driver specifications vs real life.
so i would not go and blindly build it anyways.
i added this to showcase that it may just happen you could use a car sub in your livingroom, but its generally a pretty bad idea.
DLD 500+
DLD 500+ - DLD Shop
could be used in a house. 65 ish liter, tuned to something like 38 hz might work.
but just might.
still would have a 24ms group delay or so around 34 hz, but.. its a narrow peak, and its at a quite low freq, it may get away with it without busting the bass into pieces.
a solid 105 DBL at 30 hz with a clean 150 watt amp is about what i would expect from this driver. this is roughly the -3DBL point too.
70 usd for this driver makes it a good choice, but do notice:
i did not try it. i have no idea how accurate are the driver specifications vs real life.
so i would not go and blindly build it anyways.
i added this to showcase that it may just happen you could use a car sub in your livingroom, but its generally a pretty bad idea.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.