Car sub using Eminence 3012LF-4

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OK, I must be missing something. I'm looking to build a small, lightweight subwoofer to augment the factory system in my 2017 Civic Si sedan. I started by using the JBL cabin gain chart to roughly estimate the cabin gain (assuming same basic interior as a 1996 Accord). I then found a lightweight driver that was reasonably efficient and had the right parameters to give me the needed in-car response (somewhat flat from 20Hz to 100Hz). I ended up with a 1 cubic foot sealed box in order to get a flat in-car response with a Eminence 3012LF-4 driver. So far, so good...

I'm posting because this approach doesn't seem to line up with what's available in the marketplace for car subwoofers. The parameters of the 3012LF-4 are nothing like standard car subwoofers, which typically have low resonance frequencies and low efficiency. When I model those those drivers in sealed boxes, the response is nowhere near flat. What am I missing?

Brian
 

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You should be more worried, how you will let sub play in your car salon not in trunk only.
Almost all car subwoofers arent very musical, if they will have low Fs, then mms will be in sky, resulting in unarticulated bass.
Imho, cabin gain should be measured by fact, not in virtual program.
 
Hi Brian,

I’m interested to see how this turns out. Have you built it yet? If it works as planned, this subwoofer would be a good option for people looking for a lite weight subwoofer with good output. I have never considered the 3012LF-4 for subwoofer use in a sealed enclosure before, due to the high f3 of 90hz. Please let us know how this turns out.

Regards,
Matt
 
The Eminence 3012LF-4 will have much lower efficiency below ~80 Hz than your typical 12 inch ~90db hq car sub.
Also it has a low Xlim (need to set your subsonic relatively high and avoid a sealed enclosure).
For rock/metal/techno/disco this is a good choice though since it has low mms, low le and a good motor (should play pretty accurate and fast in the correct enclosure).
Also you will have to build a few test enclosures or modify an already existing one to get it right. No simulation will help you there.
Telescope like ports with variable length will come in handy.
 
I went down the same route in my Chevy PU truck. The first boxes I built of MFD with a sealable port (plumbing pipe) some songs sounded good ported others sealed. I could not stand the kick drum (thump, thump, thump) wither ported or sealed. So I ditched the MBF boxes and made a sealed chambered solid underseat edge glued maple box (not plywood). Now I am totally pleased with the sound and power. Anyways have a listen and look see for yourself here ---> YouTube

My opinion if your after accurate sound reproduction. Ditch the MDF other man made sheet goods and go for solid wood instead. Maple is a great choice. The box needs to be able to resonate the bass notes, not thump them.

If you like the Thump the go with resonate killing man made sheet goods boxes and put carpet on it to even further kill any resonate qualities that might have been there to begin with.
 
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Funny I should stumble across this thread because I was looking at exactly the same driver for car audio but in a 22ltr sealed box. It measures a bit flatter than the Eminence Lab12c once you add in cabin gain of a car, has the advantage of a powerful motor and light cone but with a little less xmax. I don't want to win any car SPL comps, so I don't think xmax is going to be a problem (According to my simulations it will do well over 130db with 400watts, when you factor in cabin gain)
And the other thing is it models with incredibly low group delay.
 
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