whats up - I just bought the radioshack dc power supply off of ebay. It's 25 amps at 13.5v ... will that be enough to power this at a decent volume ???http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QHXvTS...&s=0&cc=01&g=110&id=detailed_info&i=023PA2100
yeah that should get pretty loud. Wont run that amp at full output bridged though. But even if you get a highly inefficient 50% efficiency with that amp youll get 150-175watts anyways. Which is pretty loud.
Transients are what are problems with using power supplies. I found that with a 150watt amp I could push around 170watts with a sine wave, but when playing music the amp seemed to lack power. Hopefuly you wont have the same issue. If you do you may want to look into getting a stiffing cap to supply more short term power. I also did this with a .12farad cap and found that with the power supplies i was using it was worse.
the power supplies were 2 powerone 7amp continous 9 amp peak regulated supplies that i had seperated by a diode to supply more current.
Transients are what are problems with using power supplies. I found that with a 150watt amp I could push around 170watts with a sine wave, but when playing music the amp seemed to lack power. Hopefuly you wont have the same issue. If you do you may want to look into getting a stiffing cap to supply more short term power. I also did this with a .12farad cap and found that with the power supplies i was using it was worse.
the power supplies were 2 powerone 7amp continous 9 amp peak regulated supplies that i had seperated by a diode to supply more current.
I guess thats good...
Here's what I'm planning - Infinity perfect 6.1 set with custom oak laminate boxes running 100w each channel powered by that power supply with a digital display 1 farad cap and this sub http://www.recommendedbuys.com/electronics/speakers-and-subwoofers/sony-sa-wx700.htm. My only worries are that I wont get a full 100w to each channel and the sub will drown out everything else. Is there anything else you think I should try to address ?
Here's what I'm planning - Infinity perfect 6.1 set with custom oak laminate boxes running 100w each channel powered by that power supply with a digital display 1 farad cap and this sub http://www.recommendedbuys.com/electronics/speakers-and-subwoofers/sony-sa-wx700.htm. My only worries are that I wont get a full 100w to each channel and the sub will drown out everything else. Is there anything else you think I should try to address ?
as a general rule you want about twice as much power going to the sub as you do a single midrange. or at least thats what ive been told and it works well in application.
at anyrate i think you will be fine with that setup. most home recievers put out around 100watts or so a channel anyways. Or at least they claim.
I should mention that bass requires more power to repilcate than mids and highs as you well know so having more power on the sub is a good thing. Also, in order to get a 3db output gain you need to double the power to the speaker. So if you have a speaker that is 90db efficient at 1w/1m you get 93db at 2w/1m and so on. However for the music to be precieved as twice as loud you need about a 10db gain.
I think the setup you have there will work well and with everything dialed in will sound pretty good depending on the speakers of course
When it comes to adjusting things start with the bass/trebble controls flat and listen for awhile and determine whats missing. Then adjust the sub volume and crossover point on that until it sounds right. Then move onto there. The last thing you should do is touch the tone controls...
let me know if you run into any problems....although it sounds as though you are headed in the right direction.
at anyrate i think you will be fine with that setup. most home recievers put out around 100watts or so a channel anyways. Or at least they claim.
I should mention that bass requires more power to repilcate than mids and highs as you well know so having more power on the sub is a good thing. Also, in order to get a 3db output gain you need to double the power to the speaker. So if you have a speaker that is 90db efficient at 1w/1m you get 93db at 2w/1m and so on. However for the music to be precieved as twice as loud you need about a 10db gain.
I think the setup you have there will work well and with everything dialed in will sound pretty good depending on the speakers of course
When it comes to adjusting things start with the bass/trebble controls flat and listen for awhile and determine whats missing. Then adjust the sub volume and crossover point on that until it sounds right. Then move onto there. The last thing you should do is touch the tone controls...let me know if you run into any problems....although it sounds as though you are headed in the right direction.
i cant really say much about those amps. I have no experience with them.
However one brand that I do reccomend is linear power. Thats what i have been running and for the most part I am very happy with them despite the newest of them being 7-8years old.
at any rate if you buy linear power factory direct its about 50% off their MSRP listed. You get a 6year warranty, a extremely low failure rate of 1% and so on. They put out more power than rated, are used in sound quality competitions by many...and cost less than mainstreme brands
However one brand that I do reccomend is linear power. Thats what i have been running and for the most part I am very happy with them despite the newest of them being 7-8years old.
at any rate if you buy linear power factory direct its about 50% off their MSRP listed. You get a 6year warranty, a extremely low failure rate of 1% and so on. They put out more power than rated, are used in sound quality competitions by many...and cost less than mainstreme brands
You do NOT want to use a 9 or 10 volt power supply...almost all amps will shut off at anything less than 10V. Also, running 10V or less to a car audio amp is EXTREMELY hard on them, as the higher the voltage, the better, to a certain extent where too high will damage them. Ideal would be 14V, but 10V is not a good idea at all. Also, if the amp has an unregulated power supply, you will see MUCH more power from 14V than from 10V.
I have used the car battery/charger setup, and it worked fine for me, but I would watch the voltage carefully, as too low of battery voltage is hard on the batteries, amp(s), and chargers. If you do use batteries, make sure they are deep cycle, unless you use a massive charger that can keep the voltage high enough during long periods of music.
Overall, you will spend more money on getting a good power supply than it will cost to just go buy an amp made for 120V.
I have used the car battery/charger setup, and it worked fine for me, but I would watch the voltage carefully, as too low of battery voltage is hard on the batteries, amp(s), and chargers. If you do use batteries, make sure they are deep cycle, unless you use a massive charger that can keep the voltage high enough during long periods of music.
Overall, you will spend more money on getting a good power supply than it will cost to just go buy an amp made for 120V.
A 12-14.4V 25A regulated supply and a 1-2 Farad capacitor are enough for powering amplifiers rated at a total of up to 1KW RMS, as long as they are used to listen to 'normal' music [not SPL tracks or sub-bass earthquakes] and amplifiers are not allowed to enter clipping
'Normal' music signals produce high peak power consumption [up to 2KW for this case] but low average power consumption [this is the reason whu 300W are usually enough]
'Normal' music signals produce high peak power consumption [up to 2KW for this case] but low average power consumption [this is the reason whu 300W are usually enough]
if you keep the volume down enough you can run any amp really even with a much smaller power supply, however you will have no head room. A 1 farad cap does store a lot of energy, but a amplifier also requires a lot of energy...the stated 300watt amp above will keep that power system plenty busy. this is becuase when the cap is discharged on a transient the power supply will need to recharge the cap moving power away from the amplifier. Depending on the music the power supply may not catch up. So your average current draw needs to be below the current output of the power supply.
Yeah that's what I was thinking. The blaupunkt is gonna be run in stereo mode at 4 ohms, and I really need to get the full 100w to each channel. I do listen to a lot of bass-intensive music, but that'll be handled by the sub. I know for a normal, in-car setup 1 farad for each 1000w will be fine, but should I stick to that rule for this application if I want the amp to run at the expected output ???
im not really certain how they came up with that rule becuase the current demands from any particular amp will depend on its efficiency and its own internal capacitance. It sounds like a real rouch method of measurement to me.
Its very common in the car audio world for a stiffining cap to make a electrical system that is already boarder line be worse because the system has to charge the cap as well.
In your case i think the 1 farad cap is a fine choice. I can seem to get that PDF that was sent to me on those Infinity Perfects. the website must be goofed up or maybe its behind a password system? Can you save and send the actual PDF to me?
Its very common in the car audio world for a stiffining cap to make a electrical system that is already boarder line be worse because the system has to charge the cap as well.
In your case i think the 1 farad cap is a fine choice. I can seem to get that PDF that was sent to me on those Infinity Perfects. the website must be goofed up or maybe its behind a password system? Can you save and send the actual PDF to me?
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.