more about routers...
Hmm, well I got my Hitachi when they had the $25 off $150 or more Hitachi tools, free shipping on orders over $25, and no tax from Amazon.com I also get 3% back for using my Amazon visa so the total price was $129.98. Comes with an edge guide, height adjustment knob and a 1/2 shank 1/2 straight carbide bit. I've got a Ryobi cordless drill which is a great price at $59, but when the batteries died and I found out they cost almost as much as the drill does I upgraded to a Bosch.
I've seen routers die so I think it's really worth it to get the more powerful and better constructed Hitachi. I've also got the Porter-Cable 895 kit 'cause I'm planning on building lots of speakers and I'll like to keep one router on a router table and leave the Jasper jig on the Hitachi.
1/2" shank, yes, get all your bits in 1/2" shank if you can. The Japser Jigs are marked to work with 1/4" cut diameter straight bits so, here's a good 1/4" bit with a 1/2" shank: "Freud 12-102 1/4" Diameter by 7/8" Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/2" Shank". Just search for the part# 12-102 wherever you like to buy your Freud tools from...
The thing I'm having trouble with is finding a bit to with a nice gradual curve to make a wooden faceplate for tweeters. One of the reasons I want to do that is so I can take the face plate off to mount the tweeter as close as possible to the woofer but futher back to time align the phase...
usekgb said:
Hmm, well I got my Hitachi when they had the $25 off $150 or more Hitachi tools, free shipping on orders over $25, and no tax from Amazon.com I also get 3% back for using my Amazon visa so the total price was $129.98. Comes with an edge guide, height adjustment knob and a 1/2 shank 1/2 straight carbide bit. I've got a Ryobi cordless drill which is a great price at $59, but when the batteries died and I found out they cost almost as much as the drill does I upgraded to a Bosch.
I've seen routers die so I think it's really worth it to get the more powerful and better constructed Hitachi. I've also got the Porter-Cable 895 kit 'cause I'm planning on building lots of speakers and I'll like to keep one router on a router table and leave the Jasper jig on the Hitachi.
1/2" shank, yes, get all your bits in 1/2" shank if you can. The Japser Jigs are marked to work with 1/4" cut diameter straight bits so, here's a good 1/4" bit with a 1/2" shank: "Freud 12-102 1/4" Diameter by 7/8" Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/2" Shank". Just search for the part# 12-102 wherever you like to buy your Freud tools from...
The thing I'm having trouble with is finding a bit to with a nice gradual curve to make a wooden faceplate for tweeters. One of the reasons I want to do that is so I can take the face plate off to mount the tweeter as close as possible to the woofer but futher back to time align the phase...
Another tip
Bringing this back to the top for a tip I have...
If you'd like the extra flexability to have 1/32" increments using your Jasper, pick up some 'plywood' straight bits. You can find a 31/64" and 15/64" diameter cutters for this purpose. You'll have to do a little math to figure how they'd benefit you. This jig is really flexible, especially when your math skills allow you to quickly manipulate sizes using different bit diameters.
In terms of the 871s, I wasn't comfortable with the tiny bit of 'mdf meat' left for screw holes using a 1/4" wide recess, so instead I used a 1/2" wide recess and notched out an area for the terminal strip.
One last tip, when using this method of routing the rabbet (driver recess) using a straight bit, I don't then turn around and route the through-hole using the jig. I simply cut it out with a jigsaw. IMO, the only reason for a highly precise (and pretty) cutout hole is for its use as reference for a standard rabbet cut. It's much nicer making only one turn with the router.
Bringing this back to the top for a tip I have...
If you'd like the extra flexability to have 1/32" increments using your Jasper, pick up some 'plywood' straight bits. You can find a 31/64" and 15/64" diameter cutters for this purpose. You'll have to do a little math to figure how they'd benefit you. This jig is really flexible, especially when your math skills allow you to quickly manipulate sizes using different bit diameters.
In terms of the 871s, I wasn't comfortable with the tiny bit of 'mdf meat' left for screw holes using a 1/4" wide recess, so instead I used a 1/2" wide recess and notched out an area for the terminal strip.
One last tip, when using this method of routing the rabbet (driver recess) using a straight bit, I don't then turn around and route the through-hole using the jig. I simply cut it out with a jigsaw. IMO, the only reason for a highly precise (and pretty) cutout hole is for its use as reference for a standard rabbet cut. It's much nicer making only one turn with the router.
Hmm, I guess the advantage of cutting the "rabbit" with the jig then using the jigsaw is that you don't have to attach (hold in place) the cutout circle that would be left if you were cutting all the way through using the jig.
But, the jig's marked to use a 1/4" bit and that doesn't leave a wide enough rabbit after you cut out the hole with the jigsaw.
But, the jig's marked to use a 1/4" bit and that doesn't leave a wide enough rabbit after you cut out the hole with the jigsaw.
Jim85IROC,
For now, just get a 3/8" rabbet bit with the bearing and cut your rebates. That's as close to 5/16" as your gonna get. Look into getting the Jasper jig; Great tool. Yeah, you can make one, but will it be setup to cut that many different sizes of holes? I think not.
I am of the camp that cuts the opening for the driver, then use a rabbet bit for the flange. You can cut the major diameter with a straight bit, then the minor diameter. Whatever works for you...
Remember, be safe, have fun, and don't forget, there's no right or wrong, just a big gray area in between!!
Griff
For now, just get a 3/8" rabbet bit with the bearing and cut your rebates. That's as close to 5/16" as your gonna get. Look into getting the Jasper jig; Great tool. Yeah, you can make one, but will it be setup to cut that many different sizes of holes? I think not.
I am of the camp that cuts the opening for the driver, then use a rabbet bit for the flange. You can cut the major diameter with a straight bit, then the minor diameter. Whatever works for you...
Remember, be safe, have fun, and don't forget, there's no right or wrong, just a big gray area in between!!
Griff
Ooops...
I have to correct myself on my previous message regarding the use of the Jasper jig. Doing some of this so-called simple math, I just figured out that my previous 1/32" increment statement is wrong. Using an odd diameter x/64" bit actually gives you 1/64" accuracy, so finding/using an odd diameter x/32" bit would then give the 1/32" accuracy (by accuracy I mean sizing difference). The good news is that the hole will not simply be bigger or smaller by the same difference as the new bit compared to the 1/4" bit. Ex. using a 15/64" bit will yield a circle that is 1/64" smaller than the pivot hole used, using a 1/2" bit will yield a hole that is 1/4" bigger. Hope this helps.
I have to correct myself on my previous message regarding the use of the Jasper jig. Doing some of this so-called simple math, I just figured out that my previous 1/32" increment statement is wrong. Using an odd diameter x/64" bit actually gives you 1/64" accuracy, so finding/using an odd diameter x/32" bit would then give the 1/32" accuracy (by accuracy I mean sizing difference). The good news is that the hole will not simply be bigger or smaller by the same difference as the new bit compared to the 1/4" bit. Ex. using a 15/64" bit will yield a circle that is 1/64" smaller than the pivot hole used, using a 1/2" bit will yield a hole that is 1/4" bigger. Hope this helps.
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