Greets!
Yeah, there's lots of coatings that will seal to a greater or lesser extent, but I prefer the Burndy, T&B, etc., anti-oxident paste that's used for power line transmission connections that should be available at any jobber electrical distributor supplier. Since it's designed to protect terminations against corrosion/arcing damage in harsh environments for decades, it's my 'no-brainer' choice for maximizing long term joint conductance/protection. That, and starting with a good termination, something you don't get with banana plugs, spring loaded, etc., terminals.
GM
Yeah, there's lots of coatings that will seal to a greater or lesser extent, but I prefer the Burndy, T&B, etc., anti-oxident paste that's used for power line transmission connections that should be available at any jobber electrical distributor supplier. Since it's designed to protect terminations against corrosion/arcing damage in harsh environments for decades, it's my 'no-brainer' choice for maximizing long term joint conductance/protection. That, and starting with a good termination, something you don't get with banana plugs, spring loaded, etc., terminals.
GM
May I have some cabinet construction tips too ? My Fostex FE206E arrived today (whoohoo !!) and plan to build a Dallas II out of plywood.
My local Lowe's has 3/4" 7-ply birch plywood but the description says nothing about "Baltic". Is this the stuff to get ? What glue should I use ? What stain ? What varnish ? Low cost is important to me; bang for the buck rather than "the best".
I got some insight from reading about the fudge Sigma's but still have questions.
Layout: Should I draw on the cabinet side with pencil or scratch with an awl ?
Sawing: I do not own a table saw. I plan to use a saw board for many cuts. The store has a saw that can make straight cuts. How many cuts can I reasonably ask them to make for me ? Should I make the 45* cuts with the saw board ? Should I build a 12" high miter box and cut them with a hand saw ? Should I use a jig saw ?
Gluing and clamping: I don't really want to use screws thru the outside cabinet into the foldings, do I need anything to keep the inside boards from shifting ? How can I ensure they remain straight up 90* while the glue dries ? How can I clamp the inside foldings ?
Finishing: separate thread after more research.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
My local Lowe's has 3/4" 7-ply birch plywood but the description says nothing about "Baltic". Is this the stuff to get ? What glue should I use ? What stain ? What varnish ? Low cost is important to me; bang for the buck rather than "the best".
I got some insight from reading about the fudge Sigma's but still have questions.
Layout: Should I draw on the cabinet side with pencil or scratch with an awl ?
Sawing: I do not own a table saw. I plan to use a saw board for many cuts. The store has a saw that can make straight cuts. How many cuts can I reasonably ask them to make for me ? Should I make the 45* cuts with the saw board ? Should I build a 12" high miter box and cut them with a hand saw ? Should I use a jig saw ?
Gluing and clamping: I don't really want to use screws thru the outside cabinet into the foldings, do I need anything to keep the inside boards from shifting ? How can I ensure they remain straight up 90* while the glue dries ? How can I clamp the inside foldings ?
Finishing: separate thread after more research.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
What you found for plywood is not baltic birch, but should work fine if it is void free, that is the important part. You will probably not find baltic birch in a big box store, it comes in 5'x5' sheets. Titebond is what I always use, but any kind of wood glue will do the trick. If they have a panel saw and can cut accurately with it I would get them to cut as much of it as they can, since you don't have a table saw. They probably cann't do 45 degree cuts with it though. I would use the saw board for the 45 degree cuts. Lots of questions... you can countersink your screws and then put in wooden plugs over the screws. This can look nice and does not require you to have a boat load of clamps. That should get you started.
Joe
Joe
What you've seen is called "Handy Panel". I've used it a couple of times and the results have been good. It may have a gap or two in the plys so be prepared if you plan to have exposed edges. Also, it is much harder than standard plywood and will cut slow so it's best to have a sharp saw blade.
If it's not void free, avoid it. Edges aren't the concern, but voids inside the panel are. Any loose material in a void will be like a little wooden tamborine built into your speaker and will result in buzzing. You don't want to go to all the trouble building a rear horn and end up with panel buzz.
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