When done right it certainly works like a charm, but the downside to the lock mitre joint is the requirement for a separate setup and machining run for each edge, which alone can take more time to cut and tape up a single pair of small boxes with simple mitres.
Lets face it, most DIYer’s have little in the way of tools/space etc. I think the one invaluable tool is your router. Most of my boxes are simple butt joints, so which ever pair of panels are the largest (front/back into sides or visa versa) then I “overcut” these 5 mm all round. Make sure the glue up is accurate to the internal dimensions. The initial result looks pretty rough but routing off the overhangs produce perfect flush joints and a great looking(?) box – vola.
Cheers - Phil
Cheers - Phil
I've got 4 routers which probably is OTT but used properly they're incredibly accurate and give a fine cut. I leave one permanently mounted on my router table and others for different jobs. I seem to spend most of my time making jigs essential in my opinion for accuracy.
The HIFI site
The HIFI site
Because I don't have a table saw or much space (or ability with technique either) I first
got a small tool which could do many things. And I found the router forums website
which, like diy audio, has a regular group of very helpful and skilled users.
Router Forums - Router and Woodworking Discussion Community
Here is the zip tool which can be used with a good straight edge (also called a saw board) or shop made t-square for straight cuts as well as many router functions:
Marvel 40 3-in1 Router Kit
Butt joints are adequate for most speaker jobs. Clamps and a good carpenter's square plus a cutting tool can get you started.
got a small tool which could do many things. And I found the router forums website
which, like diy audio, has a regular group of very helpful and skilled users.
Router Forums - Router and Woodworking Discussion Community
Here is the zip tool which can be used with a good straight edge (also called a saw board) or shop made t-square for straight cuts as well as many router functions:
Marvel 40 3-in1 Router Kit
Butt joints are adequate for most speaker jobs. Clamps and a good carpenter's square plus a cutting tool can get you started.
Apply clamps first. Apply beer later to help cover up the mistakes made while clamping.
FWIW I built a shooting board similar to the one in the plan I linked to.
I modified the plan a little, in my version the board you put your panel is raised 6mm on one side. I did this modification to avoid cutting in a 90 degree angle and to help to distribute the stress on the plane blade a littles better. The other side should work for 90 degree angles as well, but I haven't tried it yet.
Some observations:
You can be really precise but it takes a lot of time.
I would not want to start with a 90 degree angle of the cut, you would probably need a couple of hours for only one board. However if you have an electric sabre saw or are able to cut close to 45 degrees by hand* it is a good way to trim pieces to the same size and a pretty exact angle.
You'll need a REALLY sharp and precise plane. I'm using two one to even out the bigger mistakes I made while cutting and another one for the last millimeter.
* I'm using this tool: Precision Saw Guide for 90° and 45° cuts - Basic Model Directions
Here is picture of the board, it's for boards up to 95cm long and 21mm thick.
I modified the plan a little, in my version the board you put your panel is raised 6mm on one side. I did this modification to avoid cutting in a 90 degree angle and to help to distribute the stress on the plane blade a littles better. The other side should work for 90 degree angles as well, but I haven't tried it yet.
Some observations:
You can be really precise but it takes a lot of time.
I would not want to start with a 90 degree angle of the cut, you would probably need a couple of hours for only one board. However if you have an electric sabre saw or are able to cut close to 45 degrees by hand* it is a good way to trim pieces to the same size and a pretty exact angle.
You'll need a REALLY sharp and precise plane. I'm using two one to even out the bigger mistakes I made while cutting and another one for the last millimeter.
* I'm using this tool: Precision Saw Guide for 90° and 45° cuts - Basic Model Directions
Here is picture of the board, it's for boards up to 95cm long and 21mm thick.
OT but I ran into a strange problem. I'm making a router base for a Zip tool called the Marvel 3 in 1. But I wanted to get as close to flush but not go past. Result is the base would be a little proud of the surface. This was noted after I cut the center hole.
The only solution I've come up with not being able to use any sort of tramel is to cut a disk of sandpaper shaped to the opening on the sub base and spin the piece while holding the disc in my hand. Fiber pr pressed baord is pretty dense stuff. it is slow going but it's the only way to get the evenness.
The only solution I've come up with not being able to use any sort of tramel is to cut a disk of sandpaper shaped to the opening on the sub base and spin the piece while holding the disc in my hand. Fiber pr pressed baord is pretty dense stuff. it is slow going but it's the only way to get the evenness.
I made a t-square as described by Bill Hylton in one of his router books.
Your cutting device should cut straight with a good straightedge. Consider making one from a melamine shelf. Those laminated things are straight and true. The way to check for straightness is lay the piece on a table in a well lit room, place a straightedge on edge and see if any light comes through. The aluminum straight edges for measuring from the hardware store should do. Plus a roofer's t-square for those long jobs. The roofers square should be checked in the store with a carpenters square. And _that_ against another carpenters square. In other words check one square against another for manufacturing blemishes.
Tuning table saws and such is another subject. But some swear that a sawboard made from a straightedge piece of wood is the most true cut there is using the handheld carpenter's saw. Radial arm saws are not very reliable.
The advantage that lumber yards have that do custom cutting is proper outfeed tables and infeed tables as well so there's no shimmy in handling.
One last thought: is your fence pretty snug on the table saw? I don't work on very big pieces on my own (without help) but using a shop made t-square with pressure applied from the opposite side should keep a cut in alignment.
Your cutting device should cut straight with a good straightedge. Consider making one from a melamine shelf. Those laminated things are straight and true. The way to check for straightness is lay the piece on a table in a well lit room, place a straightedge on edge and see if any light comes through. The aluminum straight edges for measuring from the hardware store should do. Plus a roofer's t-square for those long jobs. The roofers square should be checked in the store with a carpenters square. And _that_ against another carpenters square. In other words check one square against another for manufacturing blemishes.
Tuning table saws and such is another subject. But some swear that a sawboard made from a straightedge piece of wood is the most true cut there is using the handheld carpenter's saw. Radial arm saws are not very reliable.
The advantage that lumber yards have that do custom cutting is proper outfeed tables and infeed tables as well so there's no shimmy in handling.
One last thought: is your fence pretty snug on the table saw? I don't work on very big pieces on my own (without help) but using a shop made t-square with pressure applied from the opposite side should keep a cut in alignment.
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