Hi everyone. Total newbie, first post. Did a search buyt didn't find anything. I'm good with woodworking and some wiring but not worth a crap at electronic disassembly. Does anyone sell LCD panels that have been taken apart but are still in working order? I did a search on ebay and couldn't find them. Seems like someone with some electronics skill could build a little business providing them. Has anyone heard of someone selling them?
Thanks!
Thanks!
No, no one really sells them like that. trust me i searched too.
i got lucky and found someone on this forum that had one already stripped. but that's not why i bought it. i bought it because it does not have an ffc issue.
stripping them is really easy if you're careful. i stripped two and put them back together. i did break 2 but only one was my fault. the samsungs have a **** load of foil paper glue that can tear the delicate side flappy-circuit things.
just try to find one that is DIY friendly. (use this forum that says DIY compatible) then take it apart!!!
because you need a backlight to see an lcd image they are sold that way.
i got lucky and found someone on this forum that had one already stripped. but that's not why i bought it. i bought it because it does not have an ffc issue.
stripping them is really easy if you're careful. i stripped two and put them back together. i did break 2 but only one was my fault. the samsungs have a **** load of foil paper glue that can tear the delicate side flappy-circuit things.
just try to find one that is DIY friendly. (use this forum that says DIY compatible) then take it apart!!!
because you need a backlight to see an lcd image they are sold that way.
i heard that panels can be very easy to disassemble, and very easy to ruin if you're not careful. i actually did buy a pre- disassbled sharp qa 1650 off ebay with a connection mod, so it worked out well for me. keep in mind that i had my eye on ebay for months, keeping watch for the elusive sharp qa 2500 with a buy it now under $150(doesn't exist). i bought an infocus 7600w that didn't work and a proxima 810 which i still have that does work but no composite input so i decided not to use it. i started picking up parts about six months ago and finally came across the 1650 about 2 months ago, so they're out there. you just have to be patient. on the other hand, if you've got a steady hand, i'm sure you could do it yourself. i'd just buy the cheapest panel i could, even broken, and take it apart, starting with all visible screws, for practice. it shouldn't cost more than $20-30 including shipping, and trust me, you're going to spend at least $100 on parts that you'll never use in this build before you're done. my parts list for what i'm using tallies to about $300 but i bet i spent closer to $500 if you include all the miscellanious lenses and other junk just experimenting or thinking that i was being "thrifty." either way, enjoy the process. it's a pain in the *** and slow sometimes but totally worth it when you take in all you've accomplished by the end of the day.
I was afraid of that. I am on phase 1 of my 2 phase project. I just received a 3M 9200 OHP that I got on eBay for $50. I also just bought an Ask Impact WSX that should be in this week. I;m going to build an inclosure like the one at InventGeek only I'm going to make mine with casters so I can roll it into the family room when we want to watch movies.
This is a touch off topic for this post but GEEZ you people must have HUGE houses! I think a 6' screen would be incredible in my living room.
Anyway, I'll keep looking around. If anyone has a dis-assembled panel I would be interested in buying it.
This is a touch off topic for this post but GEEZ you people must have HUGE houses! I think a 6' screen would be incredible in my living room.
Anyway, I'll keep looking around. If anyone has a dis-assembled panel I would be interested in buying it.
I will be happy to answer that but NOBODY FLAME ME PLEASE. I know that this is a rip off of Tom's Hardware and an affront to all true DIYers but it was one of the first things I found, the easiest, and so I still like it.
http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/HomeTheater/HomeTheater.aspx
This does actually work very well and is easier than Tom's Hardware because you don't have to tear up a panel. I know the contrast ratio is only 100:1 on my Ask Impact WSX but at 1024x768 but it makes a nice 6' picture. I can only get 14' away from the screen in my living room and If I did anything bigger than 6' you would have to keep turning your head to follow the action!
By the way. I found a local electronics repair guy that said he would take apart any LCD panel I bought for $20. I think that's more than reasonable.
Let me know what you think of the Invent Geek design.
http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/HomeTheater/HomeTheater.aspx
This does actually work very well and is easier than Tom's Hardware because you don't have to tear up a panel. I know the contrast ratio is only 100:1 on my Ask Impact WSX but at 1024x768 but it makes a nice 6' picture. I can only get 14' away from the screen in my living room and If I did anything bigger than 6' you would have to keep turning your head to follow the action!
By the way. I found a local electronics repair guy that said he would take apart any LCD panel I bought for $20. I think that's more than reasonable.
Let me know what you think of the Invent Geek design.
uh .... so basically there saying ... build a box and put the OHP and panel in side of it ... well that is a option to help fix light leakage but the box would be perty big ... that and if yer gunna build a box you may as well use a MH setup .. so its actually bright granted i have just a OHP and a sharp 1800 ontop of it .. and yes there are tons of light leaks and its not bright enough for me but its still looks good and it impresses other peaple instead of building a box like they did id just wuild a lightweight wood frame and cover it with cloth that wont let out to much light and do it that way lighter and easier if your just looking to stop some light leaking witch i will prolly do just to see how much it helps and cuts down the room light and help my picture some.
The wood frame with a cover is a good idea too. The other advantage of the invent geek box is that it cuts down on fan noise a little as well. I think I'll probable build it with the caster, paint it black, wheel it out on Family Movie Night and then put it back into the closet.
One idea I've been toying aroud with is building a player into it. I've got a 700mhz PIII with a NetStream 2000 Mpeg II decoder card. It has a pass through cable that runs through the video card and plays DVDs at 1024x768 (Yeah, I know the real resoultion is 720x480). It also sends DTS and Dolby Digital out of the Spdif Port. I thought I could make a rolling movie cart that I could roll out in front of the living room wall, plug into power, plug the SPDIF into my receiver, and have a sort-of High-Def DVD player. What do think, waste of time or not? I assume that would be better than sVideo out of my DVD player.
One idea I've been toying aroud with is building a player into it. I've got a 700mhz PIII with a NetStream 2000 Mpeg II decoder card. It has a pass through cable that runs through the video card and plays DVDs at 1024x768 (Yeah, I know the real resoultion is 720x480). It also sends DTS and Dolby Digital out of the Spdif Port. I thought I could make a rolling movie cart that I could roll out in front of the living room wall, plug into power, plug the SPDIF into my receiver, and have a sort-of High-Def DVD player. What do think, waste of time or not? I assume that would be better than sVideo out of my DVD player.
MH = Metal Halide
MH around here normally means Metal Halide, a type of HID (High Intensity Discharge) light source. These are the bluish-white street lights you will sometime see in areas where they need a reasonably white light source. The yellowish-orange lights are HPS (High Pressure Sodium, yes they do make LPS as well) and tend to be moderately more efficient, but are totally unusable as lights sources for DIY projectors because of the low Kelvin of the lamps. I have gone through over 2 dozen different MH setups (I also have several large saltwater reef tanks, which is MY primary use of these prior to finding this site4 months ago) and have wondered if people have experimented with different temperature bulbs (temperature is measured in Kelvin and reflects the color bias of the light)? I would assume that something along the lines of a Ushio 400w 10K bulb would be ideal.
MH around here normally means Metal Halide, a type of HID (High Intensity Discharge) light source. These are the bluish-white street lights you will sometime see in areas where they need a reasonably white light source. The yellowish-orange lights are HPS (High Pressure Sodium, yes they do make LPS as well) and tend to be moderately more efficient, but are totally unusable as lights sources for DIY projectors because of the low Kelvin of the lamps. I have gone through over 2 dozen different MH setups (I also have several large saltwater reef tanks, which is MY primary use of these prior to finding this site4 months ago) and have wondered if people have experimented with different temperature bulbs (temperature is measured in Kelvin and reflects the color bias of the light)? I would assume that something along the lines of a Ushio 400w 10K bulb would be ideal.
first and foremost, if you're using a projection panel with an ohp, there should be NO stripping neccessary. projection panels are designed to be used as the name implies. you simply lay the panel ontop of the ohp. the reason monitors have to be stripped is because all the guts are in the way of the light from the ohp passing through the image on the lcd. panels are built specifically to be used with ohps. second, if you build a box around your setup, it will be huge. castors are a good idea, but keep in mind your box will be from the floor to about the height of your chest if you expect to just "roll it out." you might as well buy a microwave cart and set the ohp on it. alot of these guys that go with a simple ohp setup just cut out four cardboard trapezoids and tape them together like a pyramid around the projection lens and the body of the ohp. later on you can always upgrade to mdf or something more solid.
Its the Tom's Hardware design that has you take apart an LCD panel and use it on an OHP. You also have to install fans to keep it cool. The InventGeek design just shows using the Projection Panel. I think they use a Proxima but the Ask Impact has the same specs.
As far as the box height it won't be nearly chest high. The Design I've drawn out on paper is 37". That isn't too bad and won't obstruct anyone's view.
My ultimate goal is a Lumen Lab projection box. I'm just working up to it slowly.
As far as the box height it won't be nearly chest high. The Design I've drawn out on paper is 37". That isn't too bad and won't obstruct anyone's view.
My ultimate goal is a Lumen Lab projection box. I'm just working up to it slowly.
i used the ohp panel cuz it was sure to work ... that and its got rca input for xbox : ) and i wouldnt have to buy a converter for 60bucks to use xbox on a lcd monitor the contrast and res is low for sure but if you never seen anything better yall still be amazed .....i really think its the best way for somebody just getting into this to try it out with a ohp panel first .. then build box and use lcd monitor later
I'll probably get a lot of "why would you do that" on this post but. . . .
Has anyone ever seen a design that uses a projection panel instead of a dis-assembled LCD screen? Is that feasible? Could you build a box with a light source, fresnel lens, glass, then a projection panel, then the focusing lens? Would the measurements be different than a standard design?
It just seems that you would then have a projector with native VGA, sVideo, and Composite inputs.
Has anyone ever seen a design that uses a projection panel instead of a dis-assembled LCD screen? Is that feasible? Could you build a box with a light source, fresnel lens, glass, then a projection panel, then the focusing lens? Would the measurements be different than a standard design?
It just seems that you would then have a projector with native VGA, sVideo, and Composite inputs.
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