If you look in the DIY store at the SE bias and output set, it says for the BA-1 and BA-3. Am I missing something? I'm VERY green when it comes to this stuff.
P-BAS-S4V20 - Burning Amplifier Single-ended Bias and Output Set for the BA-1 & BA-3 (Requires a gain stage; Makes 2 channels; Rev 2.0) - Burning Amplifier Series - Power Amplifiers - Circuit Boards
Click on "burning amplifier configuration infographic" found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diyaudio-store/214012-burning-amplifiers.html
P-BAS-S4V20 - Burning Amplifier Single-ended Bias and Output Set for the BA-1 & BA-3 (Requires a gain stage; Makes 2 channels; Rev 2.0) - Burning Amplifier Series - Power Amplifiers - Circuit Boards
Click on "burning amplifier configuration infographic" found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diyaudio-store/214012-burning-amplifiers.html
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Don't worry about the green thing... we all started out that way! 
And a SE output stage driven with a BA-3 front end is one of those things that is supposed to work, in theory, but I'm just not sure if anybody has actually done it.
Are you interested in the fact that it's SE or something else? Just trying to figure out what you are after.
And a SE output stage driven with a BA-3 front end is one of those things that is supposed to work, in theory, but I'm just not sure if anybody has actually done it.
Are you interested in the fact that it's SE or something else? Just trying to figure out what you are after.
I just figured singe-ended would be easier for me to grasp.
EDIT: I should add that I will most likely be pushing different types of speakers with these, including some small full range Fostex horns. (And please, don't say I should just build a tube amp, or else I'd be in that forum instead.)
EDIT: I should add that I will most likely be pushing different types of speakers with these, including some small full range Fostex horns. (And please, don't say I should just build a tube amp, or else I'd be in that forum instead.)
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Ok. That's logical and completely understandable.
That said, I would suggest getting a BA-3 complimentary output stage PCB and building a BA-3 complimentary. For the following reasons;
1) There's a decent guide.
2) More output power in a smaller chassis (the SE needs to have lots of Fets and heatsink to make reasonable power)
3) More people have built it, so there's more support.
Matched Fets are available from member Buzzforb. Send him a PM. They should also be available in the diyAudio store in the no-too-distant future.
That said, I would suggest getting a BA-3 complimentary output stage PCB and building a BA-3 complimentary. For the following reasons;
1) There's a decent guide.
2) More output power in a smaller chassis (the SE needs to have lots of Fets and heatsink to make reasonable power)
3) More people have built it, so there's more support.
Matched Fets are available from member Buzzforb. Send him a PM. They should also be available in the diyAudio store in the no-too-distant future.
6L6, would I be able to get by using your build guide, but with the SE bias and outputs?
You just became my new best friend! Haha, but in all reality, anything huge I should know about?
My goal is to make this an integrated amplifier as well, and it's my understanding that all I really need to add is a stepped attenuator into the gain stage.
You just became my new best friend! Haha, but in all reality, anything huge I should know about?
My goal is to make this an integrated amplifier as well, and it's my understanding that all I really need to add is a stepped attenuator into the gain stage.
The BA3 preamp using the SE output has plenty of power for MP3's with a computer and DAC and Cd player but with my low output MM cartridge I did have to use another preamp to get the volume I wanted. The front end is really part of the amp as Nelson designed it so using another preamp is not unexpected. If my memory is correct my cartridge outputs 3.5 millivolts but I did try another cartridge with 5 millivolts and the front end had enough volume for it.
I am using a phono preamp also but there was not enough gain without another preamplifier. I would definitely put the front end in it's own enclosure. I have just built an F6 and am using the BA3 front end for it with plenty of gain. You may want to consider building the F6, fewer parts and use the BA3 front end as a preamplifier. I really liked the SE output burning amp but the F6 is the newest and latest. The front end is better than my tube preamplifier in a number of ways.
Originally Posted by wdecho
I did and it works great. I did make my BA3 front end as a preamplifier in it's separate enclosure.
I will make my BA3 this way,. I am just asking what is the better place for the attenuator. Many (All?) put it after the inputs, why can't put it just before the BA3 FE outputs ?
It could be better to attenuate once the signal is preamplified instead of atenuate it when signal is small (weak? sorry don't know how to tell that...
)Damien
I used 2 potentiometers on my BA3 front end where I would be able to adjust the balance. There is always some adjustment to be made to make the balance correct going from one source to another. With a little practice I have no problem adjusting 2. I want my volume controls on the preamplifier. The potentiometers are before any amplification at the front of the BA3 front end. Sounds good to me that way, another way could be better.
In post #1002, "S" isn't connected to anything. Is that correct?
Also, you can run "out" to the positive speaker terminal from any location, correct? In 6L6's built guide, he runs it from the bias board, but in post 1002, he runs it from the opposite end of the output board. Was this done to accommodate different arrangements in the chassis?
P.S. I just received my boards today. They look nice. I can't wait to start laying lead.
Also, you can run "out" to the positive speaker terminal from any location, correct? In 6L6's built guide, he runs it from the bias board, but in post 1002, he runs it from the opposite end of the output board. Was this done to accommodate different arrangements in the chassis?
P.S. I just received my boards today. They look nice. I can't wait to start laying lead.
E-Cap Supply Bypassing in External Chassis: More Harm Than Good?
Before I finish planning my power supply layout for the BA-3, I'd really like to see a consensus at this thread for or against supply bypassing electrolytic caps with (polypropylene) film caps for most BA-3 builds. And I think the best way to do this might be for those here with the most theoretical knowledge to analyze most of the posts at this thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/126697-bypassing-psu-capacitors-effective-2.html Particular members there like Eva, Andrew, KSTR, Ticktock's post #44, peufeu's post #45 jean-paul #52. It's not a huge thread so please check it out.
What's really scary for me is that because I want to put two BA-3 boards in one chassis the psu needs to go in another chassis. With a 3 foot power cable between them, I suppose that I can minimize resistance by using at least 16 gauge wire and low ESR E-caps. But how much inductance from this 3 foot cable will be a problem? That's why I thought of using bypass caps-and inside of the BA-3 chassis, as close to the BA-3 boards' DC input terminals as possible.
But then I searched to see what other diyaudio.com members knew of and experienced with bypassing and found the above thread. The opinions there seems about 60/40, with the majority against bypassing in lots of cases. And some of the majority there really know their stuff (Eva, jean-paul, KSTR). However, Eva does concede that every circuit needs to be individually assessed as to whether bypassing is appropriate, a waste of time and effort or will do nothing but harm (i.e. ringing, albeit in the MHz range).
Also, do you get lower inductance as well as lower ESR by paralleling two 2000uF E-caps rather than using just one 4000uF cap?
And even using low ESR E-caps, due to the 3 feet of power cable between the supply and the BA-3 chassis, should I add 0.1uF film caps to each rail, and as close to the BA-3 boards as possible?
Before I finish planning my power supply layout for the BA-3, I'd really like to see a consensus at this thread for or against supply bypassing electrolytic caps with (polypropylene) film caps for most BA-3 builds. And I think the best way to do this might be for those here with the most theoretical knowledge to analyze most of the posts at this thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/126697-bypassing-psu-capacitors-effective-2.html Particular members there like Eva, Andrew, KSTR, Ticktock's post #44, peufeu's post #45 jean-paul #52. It's not a huge thread so please check it out.
What's really scary for me is that because I want to put two BA-3 boards in one chassis the psu needs to go in another chassis. With a 3 foot power cable between them, I suppose that I can minimize resistance by using at least 16 gauge wire and low ESR E-caps. But how much inductance from this 3 foot cable will be a problem? That's why I thought of using bypass caps-and inside of the BA-3 chassis, as close to the BA-3 boards' DC input terminals as possible.
But then I searched to see what other diyaudio.com members knew of and experienced with bypassing and found the above thread. The opinions there seems about 60/40, with the majority against bypassing in lots of cases. And some of the majority there really know their stuff (Eva, jean-paul, KSTR). However, Eva does concede that every circuit needs to be individually assessed as to whether bypassing is appropriate, a waste of time and effort or will do nothing but harm (i.e. ringing, albeit in the MHz range).
Also, do you get lower inductance as well as lower ESR by paralleling two 2000uF E-caps rather than using just one 4000uF cap?
And even using low ESR E-caps, due to the 3 feet of power cable between the supply and the BA-3 chassis, should I add 0.1uF film caps to each rail, and as close to the BA-3 boards as possible?
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