Except that that story isn't true.
John only had one US partner David Hyre and David would never and didn't rip anybody off. John and David opened a factory in Peru and weren't on site to manage it properly and it went under. John sometimes says that his Peru Manager "ripped him off" but the reality is more like he just didn't manage the finaces very well and when the money ran out there wasn't any more to come from the US. So they had to close it down.
John only had one US partner David Hyre and David would never and didn't rip anybody off. John and David opened a factory in Peru and weren't on site to manage it properly and it went under. John sometimes says that his Peru Manager "ripped him off" but the reality is more like he just didn't manage the finaces very well and when the money ran out there wasn't any more to come from the US. So they had to close it down.
This is a bit off-topic, but a lot of software engineers in the silicon valley cut their teeth on the rave scene in the 90s, so when they grew up and got real jobs, they found themselves buying prosound gear. For instance a friend of mine had THIS in his living room for years.
Compared to the Mackies, the Summas look ten times better.
Another friend-of-a-friend used SPL Bass Tech 7s at raves, at played them at home in the mean time.
When one of my friends saw the Summas she said they looked like "modern art." Of course she'd seen the zany set ups used by some of my other friends, so maybe she was just happy that I didn't have my big JBLs in the living room
Compared to the Mackies, the Summas look ten times better.
Another friend-of-a-friend used SPL Bass Tech 7s at raves, at played them at home in the mean time.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
When one of my friends saw the Summas she said they looked like "modern art." Of course she'd seen the zany set ups used by some of my other friends, so maybe she was just happy that I didn't have my big JBLs in the living room
Why aren't you guys using a product like Slick Sand or Feather Fill to seal, prime, and fill gaps all at once? It is pretty much sprayable polyester body filler. You can brush it on too. Would only need a couple coats to get everything right before final guide coat and block sanding before paint. And only would have to buy 1 product...
Here's a trick that works well for me:
I don't like bondo because if you use too little hardener, it's sticky and lumpy, and it will ruin your waveguide.
If you use too much, it hardens WAY too fast. On a hot day it can harden in 3-5 minutes.
So *my* solution is to combine bondo with the hardener which comes with fiberglass, and add about 10% fiberglass resin. From what I've read, bondo is just fiberglass resin combined with styrofoam beads, and that's why this works.
This combination yields a mix that has the consistency of cake frosting, and it takes about 12hrs to harden. That gives you plenty of time to apply it, and it doesn't end up all gummy and sticky.
The best part is that you can apply it in very VERY thing coats, which is ideal when it comes time to do the sanding.
I don't like bondo because if you use too little hardener, it's sticky and lumpy, and it will ruin your waveguide.
If you use too much, it hardens WAY too fast. On a hot day it can harden in 3-5 minutes.
So *my* solution is to combine bondo with the hardener which comes with fiberglass, and add about 10% fiberglass resin. From what I've read, bondo is just fiberglass resin combined with styrofoam beads, and that's why this works.
This combination yields a mix that has the consistency of cake frosting, and it takes about 12hrs to harden. That gives you plenty of time to apply it, and it doesn't end up all gummy and sticky.
The best part is that you can apply it in very VERY thing coats, which is ideal when it comes time to do the sanding.
Similar but not as bad as paste body filler IMO. But I have a pretty high tolerance for those smells after working in custom car audio for as long as I have.
John, the ingredient that gives paste body fillers their thickness mainly comes from talc.
Which I almost always put on my hands and arms when working with fiberglass materials...keeps the itching away.
John, the ingredient that gives paste body fillers their thickness mainly comes from talc.
Which I almost always put on my hands and arms when working with fiberglass materials...keeps the itching away.
A word of warning here. Those smells are dangerous. Not so much now but down the road. I used to ignore such things and now I have no end of trouble with my sinuses - may even have to have an operation. Thats why I switched to epoxy for most things like this. I use a thined epoxy (a littel acetone) and either talc or the 3M "wonder" glass spheres - all available cheap from US Composites in FLA. The spheres sand very nice, talc is too hard and tends to be harder than the MDf which makes sanding a problem. But its tough to get the epoxy very thin, thats when I use surfacing putty, but I don't like that stuff because of shrinkage.
But be careful with the strong chemicals they can cause no end of problems later in life.
Another trick that I use is to use wax paper. Place it on the sticky filler and smooth it out with a wooden stick. when it dries just peal off the wax paper and you are very close to the correct surface. This allows you to push the filler into the gap which is a good thing.
But be careful with the strong chemicals they can cause no end of problems later in life.
Another trick that I use is to use wax paper. Place it on the sticky filler and smooth it out with a wooden stick. when it dries just peal off the wax paper and you are very close to the correct surface. This allows you to push the filler into the gap which is a good thing.
Frank, I used "Gorilla Wood Glue". You can get it at Home Depot. Actually I looked for something that is water resistant, doesn't expand when drying and can be cleaned up with water.
Why didn't you answer when I asked for it? Now it's too late. But anyway, water-cleanup for rolling or brushing is an absolte must for me, so those products wouldn't have fit.
Best, Markus
winslow said:
Why didn't you answer when I asked for it? Now it's too late. But anyway, water-cleanup for rolling or brushing is an absolte must for me, so those products wouldn't have fit.
Best, Markus
talc vs. glass
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness
Note: talc = mohs hardness 1
Glass = mohs hardness ~ 5.5 somewhere between apatite and feldspar
must be something really soft to be softer than talc.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness
Note: talc = mohs hardness 1
Glass = mohs hardness ~ 5.5 somewhere between apatite and feldspar
must be something really soft to be softer than talc.
Would be nice to have threshhold levels and/or the possibility to measure that. But what I still don't understand: why is there an image shift when all diffractions and reflection arrive after 1-2 ms at the listening position? Summming localization occurs with correlated signals arriving within 1-2 ms. After that the hearing "blocks" correlated signals (see Blauert).
Best, Markus
gedlee said:
Hi Earl:
Except that you only recently decided to enter the DIY kit market. That changes the perspective somewhat, in that you were using the foam plugs for years prior, so amortization distribution would be higher during those years than if you had 'planned' to make kits at some point.
All rather nonsense to talk about, but I hate to decline the opportunity for argumentation, something that many of us (on this thread particularly) share with me.
Something else with router usage- if you're making more of these by hand- it looks as if you didn't do it with a router table, is that accurate? A router table proper makes all the difference in the world for straight-line operations in particular, not to mention, assists in repeatability and plane integrity (depth setting for the roundover bit being the pertinent issue here).
Anyway, enjoy your trip, and quit chatting with nerds online.
And remember folks: Arguing online is like boxing a kangaroo- even if you win, you still look like an idiot!
Re: talc vs. glass
Glass bubbles
http://ippnet.com/EN/main/products/FIBREGLASS/4943/1076.html
auplater said:
Glass bubbles
http://ippnet.com/EN/main/products/FIBREGLASS/4943/1076.html
Cause you were/are stuck with the water based stuff. But other guys might would want to check it out.
Also, Gorilla Glue and those kinds of urethane glues are not as strong as your typical yellow wood glue. Been a few tests in wood working magazines that show it is a weaker bond b/c those types of glues do not penetrate the actual wood. Whereas something like Titebond 2 has good penetration into the wood.
Also, Gorilla Glue and those kinds of urethane glues are not as strong as your typical yellow wood glue. Been a few tests in wood working magazines that show it is a weaker bond b/c those types of glues do not penetrate the actual wood. Whereas something like Titebond 2 has good penetration into the wood.
markus76 said:
Titebond 3 meets these criteria - but like any glue that can be cleaned up with water, it is water-based and will expand MDF. Aside from that, it's great - long open time, short clamp time, and *waterproof*. They say "don't use it below the waterline", but for any speaker application, it's great.
Regards.
Aengus
FWIW It was Chile.
Here is Dan Wiggins's explanation.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1247865#post1247865
Re: Re: talc vs. glass
yeah Frank, I googled it too...
Doesn't change the facts about hardness
must be talking about this...
http://thebreastexpert.com/surgery-questions.htm 
The fact they use the term "silicon(e) dioxide" says all that need be said about this reference. There is no such thing as silicone dioxide. Silicon dioxide is quartz, and is even harder,,, mohs 7
John L.
FrankWW said:
yeah Frank, I googled it too...
Doesn't change the facts about hardness
must be talking about this...
http://thebreastexpert.com/surgery-questions.htm
The fact they use the term "silicon(e) dioxide" says all that need be said about this reference. There is no such thing as silicone dioxide. Silicon dioxide is quartz, and is even harder,,, mohs 7
John L.
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