Building a Pearl 2

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Joined 2003
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Well, I worded it badly, point was it was fine gain wise using BA3 power amp, Pearl 2 phono and B1.

The Pearl indeed feeds into B1, which then drives the BA3 power amp.

Regarding F5, I also was not as clear as I meant to be.

While F5 has less gain than BA3 amp, even if playing at same volume, I still preferred using Pearl 2 into BA3 FE, then into either BA3 amp, or AlephJ.

A lot will depend on speakers, listening preferences etc, all things being equal, I like a bit of gain!

Russellc
 
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Joined 2019
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Well, I worded it badly, point was it was fine gain wise using BA3 power amp, Pearl 2 phono and B1.

The Pearl indeed feeds into B1, which then drives the BA3 power amp.

Regarding F5, I also was not as clear as I meant to be.

While F5 has less gain than BA3 amp, even if playing at same volume, I still preferred using Pearl 2 into BA3 FE, then into either BA3 amp, or AlephJ.

A lot will depend on speakers, listening preferences etc, all things being equal, I like a bit of gain!

Russellc
you were saying BA3 FE sounded better to you than the B1 in that chain, correct? Though I have plenty of gain with Pearl + B1, I’ve still been interested in building the BA3 FE. Appreciate the insights!
 
If I use my B1 with Pearl 2 into BA3, I have plenty of gain. That is using a "high output" moving coil, 2.5 if I remember. With F5, it worked but so nearly so we'll. BA3 FE cured that nicely.

It isn't all about the gain, even at same over all volume it just sounded better to me. Try a BA3 FE, everyone needs an extra preamp around!

Russellc

Russellc,

How have things been going, I hope all is well.

If you supply the BA3 I will be all over it. But for me, there are no funds from my side for one.

Worst case over here if I do not find that either I made a mistake in building the Pearl boards even though the voltage reading look in range to me or dropping that resistor value does not work is going into my Yamaha CX-A5100.

James
 
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Joined 2003
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you were saying BA3 FE sounded better to you than the B1 in that chain, correct? Though I have plenty of gain with Pearl + B1, I’ve still been interested in building the BA3 FE. Appreciate the insights!

Into BA3, B1 and Pearl seemed fine..(still have a preference for gain, maybe no good reason but imagination) but with F5 (less gain than BA3 amp) way deeper into throttle, but fine volume wise with Pearl...other sources I wanted more throttle. Even with Pearl2 (standard build) I liked it better with BA3 FE extra gain. Just seems to have more "body" or strength to the sound. That may just be my preference?

Anyway, BA3 FE is a great pre to have around when gain needed. And there is the P3 thing for more fun...still haven't setup a focusrite.

….and, it can drive F4.

Russellc
 
With the help of 6l6, his build guide, and the schematic, I was able to find some spare parts and put together this Power supply for my Pearl 2. I just used some spare diode boards from thePower Supply boards and wired some Nichicon Gold caps together. I am getting 31V and -31V... The cord I made with some spare braid sleeve I had, some heat shrink, and some connectors I found on Amazon. I am proud to say this was the first time I really spent a lot of time reading a schematic and trying to understand exactly what components needed to be where and why.

I've built a BBa3FE, F5, F6, F4, M2x, and the amp camp. I think this one is going to be the most rewarding!

Let me know if anything looks incorrect. I am working on the Pearl boards and other chassis right now!
 

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Thank you! I just finished pre drilling all holes for the Pearl Board chassis and tested the regulators. I get right around +-24V on each resistor check point!

Time for bed then I’ll finish stuffing the phono tomorrow after work. I just have to stuff the boards, wire the rcas, add the grounds to the centers of the PCBs, then bias..

My two carts I’ll be using will be a Dynavector 10x5 and Denon DL-103 and both should be good with a 1K resistor load. Not sure about capacitance if any for MC carts.
 

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Thank you! I just finished pre drilling all holes for the Pearl Board chassis and tested the regulators. I get right around +-24V on each resistor check point!

Time for bed then I’ll finish stuffing the phono tomorrow after work. I just have to stuff the boards, wire the rcas, add the grounds to the centers of the PCBs, then bias..

My two carts I’ll be using will be a Dynavector 10x5 and Denon DL-103 and both should be good with a 1K resistor load. Not sure about capacitance if any for MC carts.

Your builds look great! I'm guilty of the same thing, I want to dive into stuffing boards before understanding the schematic.

MC cartridges don't care so much about capacitive loading and I leave that spot open.
 
Your builds look great! I'm guilty of the same thing, I want to dive into stuffing boards before understanding the schematic.

MC cartridges don't care so much about capacitive loading and I leave that spot open.

Can I follow the post notes on #1287?

C15 - Leave out ( I put a jumper in by mistake)
R15 - Jumper
C22 - Leave Out, no jumper
R20 - Leave out, no jumper
C7 - Can cause issues. Wayne after the Pearl 2 article was published recommends leaving out.
 
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Bad news on the Pearl. I finished stuffing the boards today, plugged it into my DBT, and flipped it on. The red leds came on on the phono boards, but as I started to get my DMM for testing I noticed smoke.

After investigation I noticed it to be coming out of the dropping resistors (attached to my 4 PSU caps) in the power supply and NOT the phono boards.

I tested each board individually, checked my solder connections, and re-checked my wiring but each time I test I get the the same issue with DBT light on and dropping resistors on my PSU heating up quickly.

I also tried disconnecting and testing my power supply again and its fine. I did confirm the regulators were good before stuffing everything else.

I am using a 60W bulb and do not have anything bigger for my DBT.
 
DBT is my Dim Bulb Tester.

Without Pearl Connected I am getting +-31V. I tested the pearl board regulators BEFORE installing the rest of the parts and was getting +-24V on the 10 ohm resistor test points.

You can see in the picture of my PSU caps the orange dropping resistor that is slightly burned.
 

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