Hi,
What about the ribbon cables ? They are of 30 AWG value. Check out the link at: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/22791.pdf
Best regards,
Bins.
What about the ribbon cables ? They are of 30 AWG value. Check out the link at: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/22791.pdf
Best regards,
Bins.
Imo, twisting or braiding is ok per channel. The aim with that is only to make the possibility of crosstalk due to parallel runs less. Unless of course you have a non-metallic and unshielded arm tube! Then the issue of shielding comes into play. Otherwise the whole run is shielded anyhow, so parallel is fine.
The issue with some of the suggested methods is that going through the pivot and out of the arm tube is an area where maximum flexibility is required. No twisting or braiding there...
makaiyumtony, there is an issue with your method - the polyurethane you use will likely stiffen and harden over time, resulting in cracks in the surface... it may also effect the flexibility of the wire.
Imo, the Kynar is thin enough, but not flexible enough...
I'm not sure that the Mouse cord wire is actually thin enough... maybe. It has a heavy jacket, maybe with a thin jacket it would be good.
Note that the commercially used and sold tonearm wires usually have a very thin jacket?
Zen Mod wins my vote for best idea so far. Too bad they didn't make RF coils with silver litz or silver plated litz!
_-_-bear
makaiyumtony, there is an issue with your method - the polyurethane you use will likely stiffen and harden over time, resulting in cracks in the surface... it may also effect the flexibility of the wire.
Hello Mr. Bear
I know lacquer will crack easy so I pick polyurethane, I use 4N 28 or 30 AWG solid silver wire it is petty stiff compare to the strand thing but sound better for my Clearaudio Unify tonearm flexibility is not a problem, I made it 4 feet long through the pipe and come out from the top of the pivot and hang up vertically and direct solder to the MC step up. because of twist tie and twist again with the twisted and wrap with thin teflon tape outside too even crack will not short . my cable already 6 years old still problem free and I believe that cables include inter connect or speaker's gives different sound because of different inductor insolate material and also the way it's construction , I don't think parallel will give good sounding, I did try 3N solid silver or 5N silver +3% gold still the 4N is the best all my friends in here include a SPJ arm, two Dynavector, graham, Well tempt, Linn, SME V. they all give up the come with and did in this way
tony ma
Hello Mr. Bear
I know lacquer will crack easy so I pick polyurethane, I use 4N 28 or 30 AWG solid silver wire it is petty stiff compare to the strand thing but sound better for my Clearaudio Unify tonearm flexibility is not a problem, I made it 4 feet long through the pipe and come out from the top of the pivot and hang up vertically and direct solder to the MC step up. because of twist tie and twist again with the twisted and wrap with thin teflon tape outside too even crack will not short . my cable already 6 years old still problem free and I believe that cables include inter connect or speaker's gives different sound because of different inductor insolate material and also the way it's construction , I don't think parallel will give good sounding, I did try 3N solid silver or 5N silver +3% gold still the 4N is the best all my friends in here include a SPJ arm, two Dynavector, graham, Well tempt, Linn, SME V. they all give up the come with and did in this way
tony ma
Attachments
Hello Tony,
I am having the 30 AWG Kynar silver wire (CSA: 0.05mm², Diameter: 0.25mm). The wire with the outer insulation seems not so flexible for the tonearm wiring. As you recommended, I am planning to remove the outer insulation of the wire and coat it with a thin layer of PU. But, I need some clarifications before proceeding:
1. Will the twisting of the wires affect the PU coat ?
2. How many twists per inch is recommended ?
3. Will the PU coating affect the wire flexibility and hence the arm movement ?
4. What is the best way to apply the coating - Spray/Direct Dip-n-Dry/Sponge Applicator ?
Best regards,
Bins.
I am having the 30 AWG Kynar silver wire (CSA: 0.05mm², Diameter: 0.25mm). The wire with the outer insulation seems not so flexible for the tonearm wiring. As you recommended, I am planning to remove the outer insulation of the wire and coat it with a thin layer of PU. But, I need some clarifications before proceeding:
1. Will the twisting of the wires affect the PU coat ?
2. How many twists per inch is recommended ?
3. Will the PU coating affect the wire flexibility and hence the arm movement ?
4. What is the best way to apply the coating - Spray/Direct Dip-n-Dry/Sponge Applicator ?
Best regards,
Bins.
Hi Bins
Is it teflon ? you can peel a little bite and hole it on table with clam and pull, it will do in teflon, don't forget break in before to use, using cart signal to break in cause too long (weak signal). radio line out + 2k resistor load at the out-put side end, for 24H 2 weeks will be good enough
good luck tony
Hello Tony,
It is not Teflon, it is Kynar 460. Anyway, I will try...
Best regards,
Bins.
It is not Teflon, it is Kynar 460. Anyway, I will try...
Best regards,
Bins.
Hi Bins
I didn't count but I can show you the size of the tool that can help the job, in the picture tip 1" first holds 2" second holds 5" between 7", card broad is fine will not hurt coating, fingers hold wire to broad and pull slightly and turn, then tip point move to the last cross and turn, this will good for 28 to 30 awg solid silver, if the cable begin to tangle after a while that mean it twist too much too tie will break off, need longer tip
tony
Attachments
Hi BinsHello Tony,
Thanks. The process of removing the insulation from the 32 AWG wire is really a tough task.
Best regards,
Bins.
keep going more effort you pay more return you will have don't forget post the result after all, one more tips for hanging and coating, I use two small boards(PC board) drill hole in center, one hole with hook for hanging up the other hole for add weight in the bottom,solder two wires to the board side by side against the center hole, you can coat two wires at the same time. after dry through use multi meter to check the isolation of the whole lengh
tony ma
I experimented with a trick I came up with last week with good results.
Found and old pair of worn out wire cutters that would not cut the small gauge wire. Cable used was from a old mouse. Used a torch with mapp gas to heat the cutters for about 10 seconds YMMV. Used cutters to scorch insulation at length of cut then removed insulation for a perfect strip.
Brad
Found and old pair of worn out wire cutters that would not cut the small gauge wire. Cable used was from a old mouse. Used a torch with mapp gas to heat the cutters for about 10 seconds YMMV. Used cutters to scorch insulation at length of cut then removed insulation for a perfect strip
.Brad
Hello Tony,
Completed the work of coating the wires with the PU. It was a real test of patience.... Now, waiting for the coating to dry out completely so that I can make the twists.
Best regards,
Bins.
Completed the work of coating the wires with the PU. It was a real test of patience.... Now, waiting for the coating to dry out completely so that I can make the twists.
Best regards,
Bins.
Hi Bins
after the tonearm cable project you can go for the belt too, it also will give you a big surprise too, try more different material to meet your system, because every system react different, in my case a very thin elastic threat is the best, little force can stretch a lot is good for my old direct drive tt as the driving motor and pulley, still tonearm cable is more direct to the up-grad, after this done can catch the different sound of the different belts more easy later
regard tony ma
Hello Tony,
I am using Kevlar thread of 0.5 mm diameter as my turntable belt.
Best regards,
Bins.
I am using Kevlar thread of 0.5 mm diameter as my turntable belt.
Best regards,
Bins.