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Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"

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I'm thinking about trying these Mundorf caps. Worst case scenario, I can reuse them in another amp. I just don't know how they will fit. They are not over priced either.

Anyone know the length or can measure it for me from solder point to solder point? Is it more than 38mm? I'm at work and would like to order them now, I don't have the circuit board with me.
 
Got it just about done. Need to install the CC's and one or two other components that I won't install till the chassis is figured out.

In the past, I found a site that make custom panels out of some material that's black on the surface and white or red under so when you engrave it, the lettering shows up in that color. Can anyone point me to a site that does something similar? I suppose it would be like a custom panel.
 

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Here's my first attempt at Pete's DCPP amp design, I just need to put the finishing touches on it and put it in a case once I have tested it. It will be put in a Hard Maple DIY case I am building. I am making two of these, one for myself and one for a fellow vinyl junkie that has never experienced tube amp sound.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMMJQG9QcSdS81uiMPmymN_mIYH_s2rLuc8Ty7Q

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO8v915-duBWawgHNBZd0RceN-txXXw-tRxkOek


That is exactly it, thanks Jeff!
 
I used Front Panel Express for my top plate. It is excellent quality. I had a friend powder coat mine. It is not the cheapest but knowing that it would be done according to Pete Millett's specs was worth it to me. It is also thick enough to dissipate heat fairly well from the mosfets. I have a heatsink I plan to put on at some point but that thick top plate does a good job of dissipation on its own. It gets warm but not hot. The one thing I will point out is the holes for the driver tubes(6CB6) are just large enough for the pin base of the tube to fit through. I soldered the sockets on the board so they would be more or less flush with the top plate. My enclosure is just 4" 3/4 red oak flooring I had left over from a flooring project. I plan to make another enclosure from black walnut and add an ALPS volume control.

2017_DCPP Amp.jpg
 
I used Front Panel Express for my top plate. It is excellent quality. I had a friend powder coat mine. It is not the cheapest but knowing that it would be done according to Pete Millett's specs was worth it to me. It is also thick enough to dissipate heat fairly well from the mosfets. I have a heatsink I plan to put on at some point but that thick top plate does a good job of dissipation on its own. It gets warm but not hot. The one thing I will point out is the holes for the driver tubes(6CB6) are just large enough for the pin base of the tube to fit through. I soldered the sockets on the board so they would be more or less flush with the top plate. My enclosure is just 4" 3/4 red oak flooring I had left over from a flooring project. I plan to make another enclosure from black walnut and add an ALPS volume control. View attachment 622425

Hey this is really cool, im glad you posted this. I have a few questions if you don't mind me asking since you used FPE.

- First of all, how did you get them the details of where to cut the holes? Did you do that yourself using their designer program? Is there a file you can share that I can use?
I see that Pete includes a drawing file on the DCPP page, were you able to use that? I don't want the holes on top for the power, rca and output, I plan to put those on the back.
- What was the final cost for you? I wanted to get a ballpark price.
-What thickness in mm did you use?

I was planning to use the 3mm thick aluminum material and have it engraved and filled with black filler. The engraving would be for the tubes only.

I may have more later but im glad to see it works for you since that's basically what I want to do. Regarding the ALPS pot for volume, is there info on how to add one? Would it need to have more circuitry installed as a pre-amp?
 
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Pete even supplies the AutoCAD files if you want to go that route.

My amp is in a standard Hammond chassis with the accompanying baseplate, drilled by hand and with Greenlee socket punches.

I was just looking at the Hammond chassis, it looks really good. I really want to do something custom since I have the tools and carpentry skills but this might be a great way to finish this project sooner than later. The chassis they provide really hit on all keys!

Thanks for this, I wasn't aware that Hammond made such a chassis.
 
I have a few questions if you don't mind me asking since you used FPE.

- First of all, how did you get them the details of where to cut the holes? Did you do that yourself using their designer program? Is there a file you can share that I can use?
I see that Pete includes a drawing file on the DCPP page, were you able to use that? I don't want the holes on top for the power, rca and output, I plan to put those on the back.
- What was the final cost for you? I wanted to get a ballpark price.
-What thickness in mm did you use?

Regarding the ALPS pot for volume, is there info on how to add one? Would it need to have more circuitry installed as a pre-amp?

I used FPE for my panel and used Pete's PDF drawing to lay out where the board would reside. I used different transformers and moved/removed/add other bits; for everything but the board, I pulled out a ruler and did about a dozen test layouts. I think my panel was around $180 but I don't recall for certain. I think I went for 4mm and used the anodized/chromated option.

I have plenty of gain, so I added a stereo pot before the 6CB6 grid leak resistor and that was it.

The amp I built
 
Just cracked open FPE software to make the panel. A 14x13" of 4mm thick aluminum is $101, not a single hole has been added.. Am I missing something here? Has aluminum suddenly become a commodity because it seems like this will cost a lot when I start adding holes and such.

Also, im just not finding that FPE doesn't support DXF... Not sure how to get the DXF data into FPE so I can edit out what I don't want and put it on the proper sized panel? Any help please.
 
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Just cracked open FPE software to make the panel. A 14x13" of 4mm thick aluminum is $101, not a single hole has been added.. Am I missing something here? Has aluminum suddenly become a commodity because it seems like this will cost a lot when I start adding holes and such.

If they didn't have a minimum charge, they wouldn't make any money. Did you spec. anodize for a finish?

Also, im just not finding that FPE doesn't support DXF... Not sure how to get the DXF data into FPE so I can edit out what I don't want and put it on the proper sized panel? Any help please.

No idea if you can import DXF intp FPE. If you've already got a design saved as a DXF, send it to a waterjet place and see what they charge. It won't be anodized thou.

jeff
 
Yeah I suppose this is true, I just didn't realize the minimum would be $100. I have it anodized with the natural silver finish. I don't think that's clear coat.

Either way, the problem is that I can't figure out how to import the dimensions for the holes that need to be machined. Without this, I don't think ill be using their services because im not in the mood really to sit down with calipers and manually plot it all out. The work was already done and they should find a way to import the most common formats to overlay such as SXF or create a converter for their custom format.
 
Yeah I suppose this is true, I just didn't realize the minimum would be $100. I have it anodized with the natural silver finish. I don't think that's clear coat.

It's just called "clear". The cost of anodizing is also absorbed into the minimum charge, which can be more than $100, just for the set-up.

Either way, the problem is that I can't figure out how to import the dimensions for the holes that need to be machined. Without this, I don't think ill be using their services because im not in the mood really to sit down with calipers and manually plot it all out. The work was already done and they should find a way to import the most common formats to overlay such as DXF or create a converter for their custom format.

I've never used FPE, but I always assumed that you used their software to draw the panel.

jeff
 
Just cracked open FPE software to make the panel. A 14x13" of 4mm thick aluminum is $101, not a single hole has been added.. Am I missing something here? Has aluminum suddenly become a commodity because it seems like this will cost a lot when I start adding holes and such.

Also, im just not finding that FPE doesn't support DXF... Not sure how to get the DXF data into FPE so I can edit out what I don't want and put it on the proper sized panel? Any help please.

It looks like youre sorted now anyhow, but for future -

The charge will be as the 14x13 sheet is a precision job, just like any of their other work. It will be cut on the same panalised run, on the same hardware, etc. So, youre not paying for the 14x13 part, but more the 14x13 space that it takes up on that run, if you see what i meen?

You can just about get dxf into fpd, but its not editable once its there.

If you get the dxf into hpgl (.plt etc) format, then import into fpd as an HPGL object, then its in there, but not editable.

...and, possibly (im not sure) can only be used as the engraving layer, rather than the milling layer.


Plenty of other machine places (including me - of course! ; ) work from dxf though, so, if you cant get what you want from fpd's software, then its easy enough to find someone else.
 
I've decided against using PE, too expensive. For that price, I can purchase a nice aluminum case off ebay and punch the holes myself. It wont be super clean but ill also go further with my money..

That being said, the project is on hold for a little bit while I take care of other things. Having a baby and a house are full time chores all the time.

I've been listening to my Primaluna amp a lot, it sounds better and better. I bought Gold Lion KY88 bulbs and im getting some white noise randomly from the right channel, wondering if one of the bulbs are bad..
 
Wow so many replies and I didn't get a single notification.

JWags, please upload the images to the forum or link us directly to the photo album, looks like your links are broken. I would love to see what you've done.

Does anyone have a "favorite" solder flux? I am still out on the verdict. I love using liquid Kester 551 but I also like the paste stuff. It's easier to work with the Kester liquid flux though.
 

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