I was able to resolder the resistor but didnt change anything, so i pulled the guts out of the heatsink and pulled the mentioned board and found that D1,D2, and D3 had all lifited from the board. so i resoldered them and tested with the meter and get an ohms reading, switched the leads and no reading so im assuming they are ok, could it be something as simple as this?
Ok I replaced all the 1d's and 2d's on the little board (talk about eye strain)
But the 2 IC's on the board get pretty hot but thats to be expected.
Fire it up and no more voltage to the speaker outputs.
Waiting on my new Hakko 808 desoldering tool so i can bring all the outputs down into the board to keep them from possibly touching the clips when installed then I'll be able to test in the heat sink.
But the 2 IC's on the board get pretty hot but thats to be expected.
Fire it up and no more voltage to the speaker outputs.
Waiting on my new Hakko 808 desoldering tool so i can bring all the outputs down into the board to keep them from possibly touching the clips when installed then I'll be able to test in the heat sink.
An Edsyn DS107 is a very good, inexpensive desoldering tool. If you get tired of trying to keep the Hakko clean and working properly, try the Edsyn.
If you're eyes aren't great, try the cheap reading glasses that you can find in virtually any pharmacy.
If you have trouble soldering small SMD parts, solder paste and a hot-air rework station ($60) will make it much easier.
If you're eyes aren't great, try the cheap reading glasses that you can find in virtually any pharmacy.
If you have trouble soldering small SMD parts, solder paste and a hot-air rework station ($60) will make it much easier.
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