Hi, they told me to add a state bacause they check the accuracy of the adddresses anyway...
I'll try tomorrow.
Btw, how to you use the Brown Dogs? Into a socket or straight onto the pcb?
Do you decouple each opamp on the adapter or did you leave the "old" caps at the double opamp pins?
Cheers,
Tom
I'll try tomorrow.
Btw, how to you use the Brown Dogs? Into a socket or straight onto the pcb?
Do you decouple each opamp on the adapter or did you leave the "old" caps at the double opamp pins?
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Zombie, good luck ordering 
I plan to use the adapters in sockets to start with, as I have some prototyping to do!
When I decide on final designs, I will consider soldering them in, at least for the CD-player upgrade I am planning on.
But if I can get hold of some good sockets or pin arrays, I think I'll use them in my preamp, where later modifications might come in question
As for decoupling, I haven't quite decided yet... I think I want 100nf & 4,7µF (and maybe more) decoupling on the board, and mica 470pf's or something like that on the adapter. If I can make it all fit...
Happy modding,
cdl
I plan to use the adapters in sockets to start with, as I have some prototyping to do!
When I decide on final designs, I will consider soldering them in, at least for the CD-player upgrade I am planning on.
But if I can get hold of some good sockets or pin arrays, I think I'll use them in my preamp, where later modifications might come in question
As for decoupling, I haven't quite decided yet... I think I want 100nf & 4,7µF (and maybe more) decoupling on the board, and mica 470pf's or something like that on the adapter. If I can make it all fit...
Happy modding,
cdl
import-stuff
Just to say that my Browndog adaptors arrived today, everything in the package etc. etc.
BUT I had to pay 35% surcharge... for stupid danish import taxes & "customs handling charges"!!!!!! Dammit
.
Sometimes, I sure do hate this self-content, self-sufficient, overpriced and overrated little narrow-minded country
.
Well... after all still cheaper than Farnell's adapters at least.
Cheers,
cdl
Just to say that my Browndog adaptors arrived today, everything in the package etc. etc.
BUT I had to pay 35% surcharge... for stupid danish import taxes & "customs handling charges"!!!!!! Dammit
.Sometimes, I sure do hate this self-content, self-sufficient, overpriced and overrated little narrow-minded country
.Well... after all still cheaper than Farnell's adapters at least.
Cheers,
cdl
Tips for soldering
Here's some tips that may be of use to you guys re: SMD soldering.
Soldering SMD is a bit like designing audio - what one thinks will work and has been told through years of education and experience is often wrong, so here's Andy's top tips for S&MD success: -
1. Buy a flux rework wand
These are a large felt tip pen, filled with rework flux - get a no-clean one for less mess
2. Don't use tiny soldering iron tips
Trying to solder each pin of an SOIC individually is a waste of time, and very fiddly, the technique to use means use of a surprisingly large soldering iron bit, preferably a 'horses hoof' shaped one of the sort you'd use for ordinary precision leaded soldering. Something about 3-4mm wide is perfect.
3. Use the 'drag soldering' technique
No, not dressing up in your wife's clothes (although if you feel comfortable, then who am I to argue...) but a technique where we throw out the first golden rule of soldering, i.e. that of applying solder to the joint, not the soldering iron.
Well, with SMD that's not the way to do it, so here's a better way, that sounds like a recipe for disaster, but once mastered will have you fitting SOIC's quicker than the time it takes to find your cutters to clip the legs on a standard DIP package
The reason for golden rule no.1 is that the flux evaporates / burns off once the solder is applied to the iron. Being the intelligent and thoughtful bunch that all DIY.com'ers are, you will have heeded no.1 above and bought a flux wand.
Here's the secret, please listen carefully, I will repeat this only once ...
1. Apply flux to land pattern of PCB.
2. Place device accurately on pads, and check the orientation
3. Check the device orientation again
4. Hold the device on the pcb using a suitable tool, by applying pressure from the top (tweezers, screwdriver, all work well).
5. Dab some more flux on the legs of one side of the device, make sure you don't move it - if you do, realign it.
6. Take your iron in your free hand, apply a nice dollop of solder to the tip.
7. Apply the iron to the first leg you've applied flux to and drag the tip along one side, spending about 0.5s per leg, until you reach the end. Don't worry about shorts, poor joints or anything at this phase
8. Repeat 5, 6 and 7 on the other side of the device.
9. Have a good look, you will have either: -
a. Perfectly soldered joints down both sides
b. Shorts between some legs
c. Unsoldered legs
d. A mixture of b and c
10. If you have b / c, then simply apply more flux to the offending side of the IC, and drag a clean iron tip along the entire side as before - the iron will now pick up excess solder and you should get perfectly soldered joints, indistinguishable from those done by a production reflow method.
If any joints need a bit more solder, repeat 10, but add a small dab of solder to the iron first.
It sounds scary and takes a few tries to get right, but works really well, with a bit of practice you'll get the hang of it, and it's real quick and reliable to do.
Andy.
Here's some tips that may be of use to you guys re: SMD soldering.
Soldering SMD is a bit like designing audio - what one thinks will work and has been told through years of education and experience is often wrong, so here's Andy's top tips for S&MD success: -
1. Buy a flux rework wand
These are a large felt tip pen, filled with rework flux - get a no-clean one for less mess
2. Don't use tiny soldering iron tips
Trying to solder each pin of an SOIC individually is a waste of time, and very fiddly, the technique to use means use of a surprisingly large soldering iron bit, preferably a 'horses hoof' shaped one of the sort you'd use for ordinary precision leaded soldering. Something about 3-4mm wide is perfect.
3. Use the 'drag soldering' technique
No, not dressing up in your wife's clothes (although if you feel comfortable, then who am I to argue...) but a technique where we throw out the first golden rule of soldering, i.e. that of applying solder to the joint, not the soldering iron.
Well, with SMD that's not the way to do it, so here's a better way, that sounds like a recipe for disaster, but once mastered will have you fitting SOIC's quicker than the time it takes to find your cutters to clip the legs on a standard DIP package
The reason for golden rule no.1 is that the flux evaporates / burns off once the solder is applied to the iron. Being the intelligent and thoughtful bunch that all DIY.com'ers are, you will have heeded no.1 above and bought a flux wand.
Here's the secret, please listen carefully, I will repeat this only once ...
1. Apply flux to land pattern of PCB.
2. Place device accurately on pads, and check the orientation
3. Check the device orientation again
4. Hold the device on the pcb using a suitable tool, by applying pressure from the top (tweezers, screwdriver, all work well).
5. Dab some more flux on the legs of one side of the device, make sure you don't move it - if you do, realign it.
6. Take your iron in your free hand, apply a nice dollop of solder to the tip.
7. Apply the iron to the first leg you've applied flux to and drag the tip along one side, spending about 0.5s per leg, until you reach the end. Don't worry about shorts, poor joints or anything at this phase
8. Repeat 5, 6 and 7 on the other side of the device.
9. Have a good look, you will have either: -
a. Perfectly soldered joints down both sides
b. Shorts between some legs
c. Unsoldered legs
d. A mixture of b and c
10. If you have b / c, then simply apply more flux to the offending side of the IC, and drag a clean iron tip along the entire side as before - the iron will now pick up excess solder and you should get perfectly soldered joints, indistinguishable from those done by a production reflow method.
If any joints need a bit more solder, repeat 10, but add a small dab of solder to the iron first.
It sounds scary and takes a few tries to get right, but works really well, with a bit of practice you'll get the hang of it, and it's real quick and reliable to do.
Andy.
Re: import-stuff
Hi cdl.
35%???
Here we pay 19%
cdl said:Just to say that my Browndog adaptors arrived today, everything in the package etc. etc.
BUT I had to pay 35% surcharge... for stupid danish import taxes & "customs handling charges"!!!!!! Dammit
Sometimes, I sure do hate this self-content, self-sufficient, overpriced and overrated little narrow-minded country
Well... after all still cheaper than Farnell's adapters at least.
Cheers,
cdl
Hi cdl.
35%???
Here we pay 19%
ALW, thank you very much for your tips on SMD soldering - I will definately follow your advice!
Well, Elso, technically it's "only" 25% taxes, but the rather hefty customs handling fee is added to that, sooo - all in all it turned out 35% of the 70$ worth of adapters I ordered - almost as outrageous as our 50% income tax rate
B.T.W. I am very interested in your clock, so once I finish messing around with my preamp...!
/cdl
Well, Elso, technically it's "only" 25% taxes, but the rather hefty customs handling fee is added to that, sooo - all in all it turned out 35% of the 70$ worth of adapters I ordered - almost as outrageous as our 50% income tax rate
B.T.W. I am very interested in your clock, so once I finish messing around with my preamp...!
/cdl
Re: import-stuff
BUT I had to pay 35% surcharge... for stupid danish import taxes & "customs handling charges"!!!!!! Dammit.
Sometimes, I sure do hate this self-content, self-sufficient, overpriced and overrated little narrow-minded country .
-----------------------------------------------------
That is why I advised earlier to phone up and ask them to send as samples by air postage.
The only thing about the adaptors is the VERY thin traces.
BUT I had to pay 35% surcharge... for stupid danish import taxes & "customs handling charges"!!!!!! Dammit
.Sometimes, I sure do hate this self-content, self-sufficient, overpriced and overrated little narrow-minded country
.-----------------------------------------------------
That is why I advised earlier to phone up and ask them to send as samples by air postage.
The only thing about the adaptors is the VERY thin traces.
Re: Tips for soldering
And what about smd desoldering?
ALW said:Here's some tips that may be of use to you guys re: SMD soldering.
Soldering SMD is a bit like designing audio - what one thinks will work and has been told through years of education and experience is often wrong, so here's Andy's top tips for S&MD success: -
1. Buy a flux rework wand
These are a large felt tip pen, filled with rework flux - get a no-clean one for less mess
2. Don't use tiny soldering iron tips
Trying to solder each pin of an SOIC individually is a waste of time, and very fiddly, the technique to use means use of a surprisingly large soldering iron bit, preferably a 'horses hoof' shaped one of the sort you'd use for ordinary precision leaded soldering. Something about 3-4mm wide is perfect.
3. Use the 'drag soldering' technique
No, not dressing up in your wife's clothes (although if you feel comfortable, then who am I to argue...) but a technique where we throw out the first golden rule of soldering, i.e. that of applying solder to the joint, not the soldering iron.
Well, with SMD that's not the way to do it, so here's a better way, that sounds like a recipe for disaster, but once mastered will have you fitting SOIC's quicker than the time it takes to find your cutters to clip the legs on a standard DIP package
The reason for golden rule no.1 is that the flux evaporates / burns off once the solder is applied to the iron. Being the intelligent and thoughtful bunch that all DIY.com'ers are, you will have heeded no.1 above and bought a flux wand.
Here's the secret, please listen carefully, I will repeat this only once ...
1. Apply flux to land pattern of PCB.
2. Place device accurately on pads, and check the orientation
3. Check the device orientation again
4. Hold the device on the pcb using a suitable tool, by applying pressure from the top (tweezers, screwdriver, all work well).
5. Dab some more flux on the legs of one side of the device, make sure you don't move it - if you do, realign it.
6. Take your iron in your free hand, apply a nice dollop of solder to the tip.
7. Apply the iron to the first leg you've applied flux to and drag the tip along one side, spending about 0.5s per leg, until you reach the end. Don't worry about shorts, poor joints or anything at this phase
8. Repeat 5, 6 and 7 on the other side of the device.
9. Have a good look, you will have either: -
a. Perfectly soldered joints down both sides
b. Shorts between some legs
c. Unsoldered legs
d. A mixture of b and c
10. If you have b / c, then simply apply more flux to the offending side of the IC, and drag a clean iron tip along the entire side as before - the iron will now pick up excess solder and you should get perfectly soldered joints, indistinguishable from those done by a production reflow method.
If any joints need a bit more solder, repeat 10, but add a small dab of solder to the iron first.
It sounds scary and takes a few tries to get right, but works really well, with a bit of practice you'll get the hang of it, and it's real quick and reliable to do.
Andy.
And what about smd desoldering?
Re: Re: import-stuff
Fmak,
Almost all these firms refuse to send by USPostal Service but send by UPS (Brrrrrrrrr) or Fedex.
I just received two 125 MHz oscillators, worth 26 US$, from Vite on Line PLUS US$ 40 for shipping and handling. Lucky for me the invoice in it only mentioned the goods so I did not pay any taxes.
fmak said:BUT I had to pay 35% surcharge... for stupid danish import taxes & "customs handling charges"!!!!!! Dammit
Sometimes, I sure do hate this self-content, self-sufficient, overpriced and overrated little narrow-minded country
-----------------------------------------------------
That is why I advised earlier to phone up and ask them to send as samples by air postage.
The only thing about the adaptors is the VERY thin traces.
Fmak,
Almost all these firms refuse to send by USPostal Service but send by UPS (Brrrrrrrrr) or Fedex.
I just received two 125 MHz oscillators, worth 26 US$, from Vite on Line PLUS US$ 40 for shipping and handling. Lucky for me the invoice in it only mentioned the goods so I did not pay any taxes.
Desoldering
For that you need special tools
For 8-pin SOIC though just flood one side with solder and lift, the repeat for the other side.
The key is loads of solder - lift a pad and you're stuffed, even with bent legs the SOIc could be re-fitted, if not broken.
The board is a little harder to replace
These are my favoured tools: -
www.metcal.com
Andy.
For that you need special tools
For 8-pin SOIC though just flood one side with solder and lift, the repeat for the other side.
The key is loads of solder - lift a pad and you're stuffed, even with bent legs the SOIc could be re-fitted, if not broken.
The board is a little harder to replace
These are my favoured tools: -
www.metcal.com
Andy.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.