Brines FT-1600 Mk2 Build

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chuyler1 said:
I'm curious, are the magnets strong enough to hold through a layer of veneer? As in, could you install the magnets before you veneer so they are invisible? Then put another set on your grill so it locks in place but when removed looks like it was never there.


I believe so...

I've just read that on either madisound or parts express website. It sounds like a neat idea. You might need to stick some felt to the grill to prevent marking.
 
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chuyler1 said:
I'm curious, are the magnets strong enough to hold through a layer of veneer? As in, could you install the magnets before you veneer so they are invisible? Then put another set on your grill so it locks in place but when removed looks like it was never there.

If you are using the magnets in pairs.... Here is an example (mFonken size box for Alpair 6 -- excuse the dust)

dave
 

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Tripmaster said:
Hi Bob

Which grill do you recommend?

Thanks

Richard

KG816


chuyler1 said:
I'm curious, are the magnets strong enough to hold through a layer of veneer? As in, could you install the magnets before you veneer so they are invisible? Then put another set on your grill so it locks in place but when removed looks like it was never there.

The 1/4"ers probably not. I use


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=329-045 which work very well under 10mil paper back veneer.

Bob
 
chuyler1 said:
I'm curious, are the magnets strong enough to hold through a layer of veneer? As in, could you install the magnets before you veneer so they are invisible? Then put another set on your grill so it locks in place but when removed looks like it was never there.


Tripmaster said:



I believe so...

I've just read that on either madisound or parts express website. It sounds like a neat idea. You might need to stick some felt to the grill to prevent marking.


absolutely with paper backed - probably even through the 2 ply wood backed veneers.

I fabricate the grill frames first, (1/4" or 3/8" MDF), with 1/8" pilot drilled through holes, then tape to the raw enclosure with 2" painters masking tape and drill through the frame and into the baffle with 1/4" brad point bit, using a stop collar to ensure depth in the baffle. This way all the holes are "perfectly" aligned. If the box is small enough to fit on your drill press, so much the better.

Add a drop of white glue in the countersink hole, and gently tap the magnets in place with a wood block. Test first on scraps, 'cause if the hole is wrong size, you'll have no fun trying to get that magnet out - they're very brittle.

Also ensure consistent polarity on all magnets in baffles and grille frame, otherwise, well you get the picture.

If ironing on the veneer, don't worry about a minor amount of scorching at the magnets, it'll sand out.


As Dave noted, with the magnets flush on the grill frames, the wrapped fabric will act as a bit of a cushion. I've also used 3/8" MDF for the frames, in which case just set them slightly below flush.


When it's all done right, it's fun to watch the grill magically snap into perfect alignment, with no visible means of support.
 
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chuyler1 said:

What products did you use to finish those? They look great.

I'll let chris answer that... i'm only allowed to be an occasional assistant in the shop... my time is better spent designing, drawing, making drivers, and installing drivers and bits.... a sneak peak of what we fired up today. First impressions were very favorable. These have magnetic grills too..

dave
 

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Thanks Dave

The speakers are complete! but the silicone manufacturer says the sealant will take 24 hours for 1.5mm of silicone to dry. He also said the silicone might not adhere to the supra baffles because the MDF isn't primed...argh!! :bawling:

Oh well, I better not stand the speakers up until tomorrow morning :whazzat:

Richard
 
chuyler1 said:

What products did you use to finish those? They look great.

Thanks

On the little red boxes, the veneer was paper back quarter cut white oak, stain was industrial alcohol based dark pigmented named "Port Mahogany".

On the micro-towers, the veneer was paper backed cherry, stain was ML Campbell Woodsong WS26124 Cinnamon.

On both, the top coat was ML Campbell Magnamax pre catalyzed Nitro cellulose lacquer (25 degree sheen, 4 coats, hand sanded between)

The cherry's pores are quite easily filled by the 3rd or 4th coat, the oak still retains much of the pore texture. One client had requested oak grain to be fully filled with water based polyurethane - it took at least 6 spray coats and looked like cheap plastic laminate.


Even if your layup skills are up to the challenge of working with contact cements, avoid solvent based adhesives on paper or wood backed veneers when the product will be finished with solvent based stains or top coats.
 
The day that I have been waiting for, and I'm far from disappointed! :)

Front-4.jpg


Front2upload.jpg


The speakers actually sounded surprisingly good from the start (not as thin, boxy and screechy as I was expecting) and and over the last four to five hours the bass has developed significantly. I've tried a variety of music and it sounds good with most easy going genres.

I really must thank Bob, you've been a great help and I thoroughly recommend your speaker instructions, very clear and easy to follow.

If you are looking for a relativity simple build, not too large and something the wife would like, it should defiantly be on your short list!

I've taken lots of photos during the build and if anyone is interested I'll be happy to upload them.

I'll post further information as the drivers break-in.

Richard
 
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