Here is a picture of the new rev.3 power supply board with the snubber setup:
front
back
The standoffs make it easy for mounting to the chassis, which is the reason for the slightly larger pcb.
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Brian
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
front
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
back
The standoffs make it easy for mounting to the chassis, which is the reason for the slightly larger pcb.
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Brian
A few more pics here:
http://chipamp.com/diyaudio/
I didn't install the LED yet on the board, as I am low on them, and will be getting another shipment Friday.
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Brian
http://chipamp.com/diyaudio/
I didn't install the LED yet on the board, as I am low on them, and will be getting another shipment Friday.
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Brian
Member
Joined 2002
homer09 said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Brian
Brian or anyone else,
I have an avel lindberg in my GC currently hooked up to the old style PS board. The wires are as follows: Blk 0v to ac2H,,, Ora 0v to ac1H,,, Red 25v to ac ac2N and finally Yel 25v to ac1N.... I bought the upgrade PS and would like to know how to make the correct connections as on the new PS board there is an ac1 (w/ line over it) and ac1 (without line over it) an ac2 (with line) and ac2 (without line). Is the designation on the old supply of H and N meaning Hot and Neutral? If so which on the new PS board would equate.
Thanks.
Pete
I have an avel lindberg in my GC currently hooked up to the old style PS board. The wires are as follows: Blk 0v to ac2H,,, Ora 0v to ac1H,,, Red 25v to ac ac2N and finally Yel 25v to ac1N.... I bought the upgrade PS and would like to know how to make the correct connections as on the new PS board there is an ac1 (w/ line over it) and ac1 (without line over it) an ac2 (with line) and ac2 (without line). Is the designation on the old supply of H and N meaning Hot and Neutral? If so which on the new PS board would equate.
Thanks.
Pete
Brian,
My GC works just fine but something I noticed with other people using the Avel trans is that they have the wires that are marked 0v going to the ac1 and 2 N and the other 25v going to ac1 and ac2 H. Is it a problem that mine is opposite. My 0v wires go to the H connections and 25v to the N.
Pete
My GC works just fine but something I noticed with other people using the Avel trans is that they have the wires that are marked 0v going to the ac1 and 2 N and the other 25v going to ac1 and ac2 H. Is it a problem that mine is opposite. My 0v wires go to the H connections and 25v to the N.
Pete
budwiser said:
The polarity of the wiring isn't too important, as long as you keep the same polarity notation for each of the windings. (AC is non-polar, but I like to match the polarity in wiring up the primary and secondary windings with respect to the AC hot coming from the wall)
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Brian
WHat to use as guide to build briangt 3875 rev C?
Have purchased the Rev C Briangt kit (not snubberized).
Where to start? There is no manual.
On Brians site there is:
Rev C board layout with parts list and positioning
Manual for previous rev
I havent seen any photos of rev C 3875 units, although the ones on brians site are not typically identified, so could be any variety...
Is there a schematic for this somewhere? The one on brians site is for the snubberized version. Any other information to absorb before beginning the build?
Ransom Peek
Have purchased the Rev C Briangt kit (not snubberized).
Where to start? There is no manual.
On Brians site there is:
Rev C board layout with parts list and positioning
Manual for previous rev
I havent seen any photos of rev C 3875 units, although the ones on brians site are not typically identified, so could be any variety...
Is there a schematic for this somewhere? The one on brians site is for the snubberized version. Any other information to absorb before beginning the build?
Ransom Peek
No LM3875 rev C Manual
No, the manual posted is for previous revisions. There is a separate note with pcb board diagram and rev C parts list, and a schematic for snubberized version.
So, for standard version, rev C, do we use the old manual and the pcb layout and parts list and sort it out with that?
Ransom Peek
http://www.chipamp.com/lm3875.shtml
No, the manual posted is for previous revisions. There is a separate note with pcb board diagram and rev C parts list, and a schematic for snubberized version.
So, for standard version, rev C, do we use the old manual and the pcb layout and parts list and sort it out with that?
Ransom Peek
http://www.chipamp.com/lm3875.shtml
Well so simple and straight!
I'm real "teapot" in electronics, although I used a lot of soldering and assembly the "monkey" way - just repeating others successes.
Well, I want to do the same and build my copy of this excellent device.
Since I'll repeat the layout from posted images in CorelDraw vector drafting program I need real size of the board?
Can anybody help me with this?
Thanks in advance.
greetings to all audiophiles
I'm real "teapot" in electronics, although I used a lot of soldering and assembly the "monkey" way - just repeating others successes.
Well, I want to do the same and build my copy of this excellent device.
Since I'll repeat the layout from posted images in CorelDraw vector drafting program I need real size of the board?
Can anybody help me with this?
Thanks in advance.
greetings to all audiophiles
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