I see what you are saying, but you can't run the lm3886's at +-50v.... too high voltage. A better voltage would be +-30v and have a 1kva toroidal for both channels :-D heheh power ...hehe anyway, so at 50v swing (just to keep #'s even) and only 200 watts thats 4A. What Peranders was saying I think is that each chip is capable of 11-12 amps peak, and if they are paralleled...then ...thats your 30A figure. Each chip i think really only does 5A continuous, but still heat dissipation is such that they can't be run all that high. Thats my understanding. Someone correct me.
-Matthew K. Olson
-Matthew K. Olson
Sounds like a good idea for a pcb layout. I never got around to finishing mine.
Here is a picture of the Jeff Rowland Concentra:
The Concentra uses no servo, and 6 x LM3886 in non-inverted configuration, with a balanced driver chip, like the LM3886. (this is what I read, so correct me if I made a mistake)
--
Brian
Here is a picture of the Jeff Rowland Concentra:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The Concentra uses no servo, and 6 x LM3886 in non-inverted configuration, with a balanced driver chip, like the LM3886. (this is what I read, so correct me if I made a mistake)
--
Brian
Mattyo5 said:
you can get copper braid in the electrical section of Home Depot, I bridge the water filter coming into the house with a #8 copper braid. the #14 stranded can also be found at Home Depot in 100 foot spools. Rat Shack used to carry #18 stranded, but the PVC insulation is awful.
you can also find copper rod at HD -- this is really overkill -- in my anodizing power supply they use rectangular copper rod.
(btw, if you install a "whole-houe" water filter, as the case is plastic it's imperative to bridge the input and output of the filter. Somehow Ametek, the manufacturer of the filters, forgot to include this step in their instructions !).
A good idea for looking at power traces is a wire gauge calculator available here:
http://www.ultracad.com/calc.htm
It will allow you to calculate the equivilant gauge wire to the pcb trace width/thickness.
For a 2oz copper pcb, a 150mil wide trace is equal to 23.11 gauge wire. If you step up to 4oz copper, the same width would be equal to 20.12 gauge wire.
direct link to download software:
http://www.ultracad.com/wiregage.zip
vbrun300.dll needed for running program
http://www.ultracad.com/vbrun300.dll
(right click and download links)
Inversely, it would take a 490mil wide 2oz copper trace to equal the size of 18ga wire. cut this number in half for 4oz copper.
--
Brian
http://www.ultracad.com/calc.htm
It will allow you to calculate the equivilant gauge wire to the pcb trace width/thickness.
For a 2oz copper pcb, a 150mil wide trace is equal to 23.11 gauge wire. If you step up to 4oz copper, the same width would be equal to 20.12 gauge wire.
direct link to download software:
http://www.ultracad.com/wiregage.zip
vbrun300.dll needed for running program
http://www.ultracad.com/vbrun300.dll
(right click and download links)
Inversely, it would take a 490mil wide 2oz copper trace to equal the size of 18ga wire. cut this number in half for 4oz copper.
--
Brian
) only 16 A.
That UltraCAD site is pretty sweet, tons of information on there.
I found this paper on 90 degree bends in pcb design very interesting.
http://www.ultracad.com/90deg.pdf
I found this paper on 90 degree bends in pcb design very interesting.
http://www.ultracad.com/90deg.pdf
Mattyo5 said:
Maybe like this:? http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=187954
(BB - APPLICATION BULLETIN - sboa046.pdf)
Arne K
I am having trouble with my PCB Express software, I'm going to try to go over the PCB tomorrow.
Sorry to have taken so long to do it.
FYI: you can select the parts you have layered to make a part, then "Group as component" that way the parts will hold together and the circles of your electrolytic caps won't move seperatly from their holes!
-Matt
Sorry to have taken so long to do it.
FYI: you can select the parts you have layered to make a part, then "Group as component" that way the parts will hold together and the circles of your electrolytic caps won't move seperatly from their holes!
-Matt
Try some of the freeware like Eagle -- I believe that the Freeware version allows you to create parts === this means you could design the LM3886T for the correct 67 mil/200 mil spacing. You will find Eagle much better than the PCB Express software.zagisrule! said:
With Eagle you create the gerber files, drill files etc., zip the data and send it along to ExpressPCB or another proto-typing house, or you can make your own photo-mask and etch the boards at home.
If you are using the Eagle freeware you are somewhat limited in the board size -- if you are creative you can get around this limitation, however.
There is a demo-version of Ultiboard at the Electronicsworkbench site.
(for the record, I have the "paid for" version of Eagle, and the "paid for" version of Ultiboard.)
Yes, I use the "Paid" version of Ultiboard and also the "Paid" version of P-CAD. P-CAD is my favorite hands-down...I can barely stand to work in Express PCB, but I do every bonce in a while if I am giving the project files away (not many people have the pro-level software) on a forum. I like to share my work.
-Matt
-Matt
CAD viewer
There are a cad viewer to be found at:
http://www.cimmetry.com/cimweb.nsf/pages/HomePage2FramesEnglish
Covers most cad end EDA formats.
Regards/Stefan
There are a cad viewer to be found at:
http://www.cimmetry.com/cimweb.nsf/pages/HomePage2FramesEnglish
Covers most cad end EDA formats.
Regards/Stefan
no pcb, but the amp works!
Well, i don't have pcb's, but i did a ptp version of the bpa-200 amp w/ 6 chips instead of 4... and well...it works! I kinda have a ground hum...but of course thats just my luck. Some of the amp is in uh, clip leads right now, but as far as I can see, there is only 2mV dc on the output! Everything is very well matched apparently Anyway, i'm excited...would be much better to have this design w/ a pcb though. No sound impressions yet...Pics asap.
Zagis.... email me if you can.
later ya'll!
-Matthew K. Olson
Well, i don't have pcb's, but i did a ptp version of the bpa-200 amp w/ 6 chips instead of 4... and well...it works! I kinda have a ground hum...but of course thats just my luck. Some of the amp is in uh, clip leads right now, but as far as I can see, there is only 2mV dc on the output! Everything is very well matched apparently
Anyway, i'm excited...would be much better to have this design w/ a pcb though. No sound impressions yet...Pics asap. Zagis.... email me if you can.
later ya'll!
-Matthew K. Olson
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.