Box damping/bracing question... and maybe an idea?

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I believe that at one time Geddes was using melamine glue (Grainger carries it) as the viscous layer for CLD, though a thread linked to in an earlier post here seemed to indicate that he by then didn't think much of anything other than some cross-struts in a box was necessary. I think at one time (before that?) he switched from melamine glue to some other substance, but don't remember what it was, might have been something proprietary.

I think I read he uses damping in the cross-strut construction though...
 
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I'm not sure about that. I might just do a quote and let you decide, there might be further info somewhere.
Earl said:
A simple cross brace, from front to back and side to side, attached in the center does wonders for reducing the lower order modes - the worst ones. If this brace is rigid, like the oak that I use, then the brace will not compress (oak is VERY strong in compression along its grain) and it will thus connect the two opposite sides together fixing them to be a fixed distance appart. This will basically kill the monopole mode since the sides cannot all move outward or inward together as the braces won't allow this. What about the dipole mode? Well this one is killed too if the braces cross in the center and are attached together. Thats because in this configuration the center point is fixed in space and connot move and this elliminates the dipole mode.
 
You don't need to salvage a screw from a C clamp. Any screw, ideally fine threaded, will do so long as you can captivate nuts for it to bear against. Perhaps the best thing to do would be to cut threads into a steel or aluminum plate, which in turn can be screwed down to a damped panel.

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I guess I remembered a post similar to this one:
M

I make my own formulation of compound from elastomeric polyurethane, but its exact formulation is proprietary.

As I said for CLD to work you must put the object into shear. In a cross brace you can do this with two plates bonded together, but each plate adheres tightly to a different side. Virtually all vibrations across this object will be in shear. Sorry, but I don't have any measurements - I don't have an accelerometer.

Which doesn't mean he applies it to his own cross braces. My bad...
 
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Old thread but some serious builders in this one so i'll ask if anyone ever tried this technique described in this patent? US5639996A - Asymmetrically resonance tuned speaker-box
- Google Patents


I've just read from some thesis (or some thread, read many hours and forgot where was it :D) about cabinet resonances and the measurements basically said that bracing don't kill cabinet resonance but merely pushes it up in frequency. Dampening the resonances would be better.

In the enclosure described in the patent resonances are spread out by having different mass and varying thickness per panel to get them resonate in different frequencies. Also, there is a note that without bracing the resonant energy in the enclosure walls is dampened faster. Any thoughts?

I gotta try this, if no one says it doesn't work :)
 
Old thread but some serious builders in this one so i'll ask if anyone ever tried this technique described in this patent? US5639996A - Asymmetrically resonance tuned speaker-box
- Google Patents


I've just read from some thesis (or some thread, read many hours and forgot where was it :D) about cabinet resonances and the measurements basically said that bracing don't kill cabinet resonance but merely pushes it up in frequency. Dampening the resonances would be better.

In the enclosure described in the patent resonances are spread out by having different mass and varying thickness per panel to get them resonate in different frequencies. Also, there is a note that without bracing the resonant energy in the enclosure walls is dampened faster. Any thoughts?

I gotta try this, if no one says it doesn't work :)

I haven't read the earlier posts in the thread and only glanced at the patent but a few points...

The lowest frequency modes in a typical cabinet involve all the panels moving together in a "whole body" motion. The resonances involving panels vibrating like panels are at higher frequencies and generally radiate less sound.

Symmetry is often good not bad when it comes to modes because it can lead to the sound radiated by some modes cancelling when a pair of panels move the same amount in opposite directions.

If you have resonances within the passband of the relevant driver/s then a quiet cabinet will need to include extra damping significantly beyond what would be provided by wood. Doing this effectively usually involves finding out which are the troublesome modes and making modifications to target damping at them or eliminate/modify them with structural bracing.

Stiffness of the front baffle is always beneficial because it reduces the work put into cabinet by the vibrating drivers. Stiffness of the other panels is less important unless the objective is to raise the frequency of the lowest resonances above the passband of the drivers (e.g. subwoofer and possibly woofer cabinets).

Mass is rarely useful for doing something constructive with cabinet vibration unless taken to extremes.
 
Michael Green was of the opinion that it was better to have one large resonance and damp it as best you can than to have a train of smaller resonances.

He used the example of old European concert halls.

Makes sense to me. Coloration is a fact of life. i would worry the mega mini resonances idea would sound like mud - just as when too many colors are added together.
 
Michael Green was of the opinion that it was better to have one large resonance and damp it as best you can than to have a train of smaller resonances.

He used the example of old European concert halls.

Makes sense to me. Coloration is a fact of life. i would worry the mega mini resonances idea would sound like mud - just as when too many colors are added together.
Since all solid bodies have an infinite number of resonances I think one safely say...

If competent attention is paid to the construction of a speaker cabinet then it's sound radiation can be made low enough to be inaudible in the presence of the sound radiated by the drivers. Sound radiation from the cabinet may be a fact of life but audible sound radiation from the cabinet need not be.
 
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A panel is going to have the potential to ring no matter what you do. I have been taking measures to spread resonances and push them up high enuff, and with high enuff Q that they are extremely unlikely to ever get excited. This has worked extremely well.

If you are doing a multiway, it is certainly an attainable goal (for a woofer in a 3-way anyway) to pus resonances beyond the drivers bandwidth so no energy available at all for exciting box resonances.

The problem i have with trying to damp panel resonances is that the extra weight with no added stiffness both lowers the potential resonant frequencies, and broadens its Q so that it will accept more energy that might excite those resonances. Counterproductive to my mind.

dave
 
The goal is to raise or lower the cab, etc., resonance above/below its pass-band, so for lower frequencies it's more efficient to brace, raising the resonance above the pass-band, then damping, which requires a lot less since sound power falls at 1/f.

If you try to push it below the pass-band you typically wind up with mutiple layers of different materials, constrained layer, stone, concrete, etc., construction, which will be both massive and stiff enough to need no damping if designed with no major reflections [eigenmodes].

Beginning around 300 Hz, mass loading becomes viable as witnessed by pioneers building with tar damped tin and later, cast aluminum, fiberglass, etc..

GM
 
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