Bora is a nice guy from Serbia - Yugoslávia

Naf,
post704.

the output devices are mounted on the inside of the L angle aluminium bracket.
It is extremely difficult to ensure a flat face here for the devices to contact for good Thermal Conductance (low Thermal Resistance).

If the PCB and output devices are turned upside down then the devices contact the outside face of the L. This face can be checked and altered to ensure it has a goof flat surface for good heat flow.

A further advantage of using the outside face it that the devices can be mounted much closer to the heatsink. Maybe as much as 8mm closer. That reduces the Thermal Resistance considerably. This helps the output stage to run less hot and more reliably.


After reading this I checked the L aluminium brackets I am using in my amps and, of course, you are right. In a next amp I will follow your advice and mount output devices on the outside face of the L, it looks better but not perfectly flat.
dado
 
Dr Bora/Viktor,

Is this schematic still valid as a working amp? I assume the LEDS are 5mm RED color.

Regards!
 

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Just for you nazirdigi...Work carefully and you will not have problems.
Dear Victor !!!
About Legend basic amplifier you post no. #636
Please send me schematic of "Legend raspored", because I see components are different with "Legend basic rev.5 by Dr. Bora".
Sorry, my english very bad !!!
My email: viethungna@gmail.com.
Thanks and best regard !
 

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About Legend basic amplifier

Dear Victor !
About Legend basic amplifier.
Why "Legend raspored" and "Legend basic rev.5 by Dr.Bora" are different components? (Please see attach files)
Please send me schematic of "Legend raspored".
Sorry my English very bad.
my email: viethungna@gmail.com
Thanks and best regard !
 

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hi sir Bora please give me schematics diagrams, pcb, and some picture power amplifier 1000w since 10 years which installed. thanks

In most cases, I am happy to help if I can and if I have time, but I am not very happy to realize that some people are seeing me as a kind of a DIY Juke-Box... press the button of your wish (without a coin!) and solution will come out.
All I was willing to share with public is already given (free) on my WEB site.
 
sir bora,
please share the link of your version of leach amp
thanks,

Hi Engel,

Have you visited elab.ph? Here's the link of our local forum that mainly discusses the Leach Amp, our Leach masters can help you out..:)

Leach Low TIM Amplifier V4.5

Originally my Leach DIY was also the version of our kind hearted Dr. Bora. He was able to sent me the DIY files and gave a some construction tips. Unfortunately I lost all the files from a terrible PC malfunction, I did all I could to retrieve and save the files...sought the help of my PC tech brother but to no avail, it was a hardware failure...:headbash:

I ended up using Brian Pingres design which also uses TO-247 (2 pairs/channel) It was an excellent built and performs well. My thanks
to Brian! and to Dr, Bora for showing me the way!

:drink:
 
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abeeter,
thanks i also lost that file,thanks for the link,the only problem with leach is mica capacitor,did you manage to find?

Nope, I used ceramic caps, mica is quite expensive and is non available on the shelf from the local suppliers. I don't have any measuring tool that tells the difference between using ceramic and mica, the amp sounded excellent to me. However I am planning on replacing them with polystyrene types, I found a few local supplier that sells them (Alexan, Watson) and Brian uses polystyrene caps on his build.
 
can i use mje15032/33?
do quasor realy need 350v 15034/35

Yes you can. I use 15034/35 frequently because I have them
and they are well on a safe side for most supply voltages, but you can use 15032/33.

@ abeteer
Use Polystyrene (Styroflex) caps when ever you can, for they are not inferior to Mica at all!
Use IRFP240 because it is very possible that other types might give you trouble with instabilities.