Hi guys,
Finally i found a Design which lets me get 15l + while still staying easy transportable, i gonna fix all the electronics to the wall with the chassis and transport all 6 walls separated from each other.
I want to get alot of Bass down to 70hz or sth with a peek around there (BR design) for hella kickbass
Three Problems:
1. Which driver? cheaper than 70$ would be great
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-fullrange/fostex-ff125wk-5-full-range/
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-fullrange/fountek-fr135ex-5-full-range/ (a little too expensive :/)
Or do you guys have something else for me?
Efficiency around 88dB would be best compromise between Bass and Efficiency
2. Which Amp?
Class D ofc, But i need a mono Amp or one that can be bridged and get me up to 15W power with low disortion on a 8Ohm driver
Aswell it needs to be able to handle around 25.2V Input Current from a fully charged 22.2V 6Ah Lipo Battery
3. What about Dampening or those stuff? I wont be able to fit much of that into it, so how much do I need to fit into the box for getting the best compromise between that stuff and portability?
Thanks for your Help
Finally i found a Design which lets me get 15l + while still staying easy transportable, i gonna fix all the electronics to the wall with the chassis and transport all 6 walls separated from each other.
I want to get alot of Bass down to 70hz or sth with a peek around there (BR design) for hella kickbass
Three Problems:
1. Which driver? cheaper than 70$ would be great
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-fullrange/fostex-ff125wk-5-full-range/
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-fullrange/fountek-fr135ex-5-full-range/ (a little too expensive :/)
Or do you guys have something else for me?
Efficiency around 88dB would be best compromise between Bass and Efficiency
2. Which Amp?
Class D ofc, But i need a mono Amp or one that can be bridged and get me up to 15W power with low disortion on a 8Ohm driver
Aswell it needs to be able to handle around 25.2V Input Current from a fully charged 22.2V 6Ah Lipo Battery
3. What about Dampening or those stuff? I wont be able to fit much of that into it, so how much do I need to fit into the box for getting the best compromise between that stuff and portability?
Thanks for your Help
Since you are questing about mono/stereo, what about a dual voice coil such as the monacor SPH 170 TC or 135 or 200...but 170 would be ok, I guess.
Sure, you need a mid/tw
Another ride!
So.. What advantage would a dual voice coil get me? Can i connect the left and right channel seperately to one coil each and solve the Problem?
I found LiPo Batteries with 18.4V output current so i would go with this Amp: http://www.amazon.com/30Watt-Class-Audio-Amplifier-TPA3118/dp/B00S98MIXM
The Monacor SPH 170 TC is the right choice for that enclosure size?
The 2 inputs should be paralleled as the two coils will receive the same signal. Guess what happens if you pilot them with different signals ? The worst case would be two signals in anti-phase with each other.
That was just a solution in case you didn't find any mono amplifier in the market.
But it's intended as subwoofer (as a replacement of the subwoofer path in 2.1 systems) or woofer which needs adequate complement for the mid and treble.
Or you can just parallel the two coils of a DVC speaker to get half Z.
...maybe fullrange was the way to go, as you first interpreted
What do you mean with " i gonna fix all the electronics to the wall with the chassis and transport all 6 walls separated from each other."
I would go with a woofer+tweeter setup for a boombox. Since you're often off-axis, the treble from a FR would be quite dull.
TPA3123 or TPA3116 with a 6S lithium pack is a good option. Have a look at 4 ohm drivers to get more power at the same voltage.
I would go with a woofer+tweeter setup for a boombox. Since you're often off-axis, the treble from a FR would be quite dull.
TPA3123 or TPA3116 with a 6S lithium pack is a good option. Have a look at 4 ohm drivers to get more power at the same voltage.
What i mean is that I transport the 6 walls of the box separately. they gonna be fixed with some silicon and such stuff to get it working properly. I will have to tighten the stuff together every time I want to listen to something.
I have enough problems with the theoretical part when i am only using 1 Driver xD
Is it rly going to be that bad with a fullrange driver? I dont want perfect sound, just medium sound quality with quite some kickbass.
Why 6S? the have a maximum voltage of roughly 25V and depending on the drivers (which mostly use max 24V) and their quality that stuff gonna get a little too hot.
from what material do i make the Bassreflex pipe?
I have enough problems with the theoretical part when i am only using 1 Driver xD
Is it rly going to be that bad with a fullrange driver? I dont want perfect sound, just medium sound quality with quite some kickbass.
Why 6S? the have a maximum voltage of roughly 25V and depending on the drivers (which mostly use max 24V) and their quality that stuff gonna get a little too hot.
from what material do i make the Bassreflex pipe?
Huh, why would you do that? That's a huge PITA.
With one driver you often also need to use notchfilters for a good response. A 2 way system doesn't have to be much more difficult. But I get why you want a fullranger.
There are plenty of good FR's for ~30 dollar, have a look around.
You could go 12V and use a tripath amp, you don't really need the extra power.
A PVC pipe can be used as port.
With one driver you often also need to use notchfilters for a good response. A 2 way system doesn't have to be much more difficult. But I get why you want a fullranger.
There are plenty of good FR's for ~30 dollar, have a look around.
You could go 12V and use a tripath amp, you don't really need the extra power.
A PVC pipe can be used as port.
First, whats a PITA?
I am doing this cuz 15l are not tranportable if you dont have a car. I want to carry the box with me when i am for example studying informatics and afterwars wanna meet up with some friends.
Tell me more about Notchfilters pls, I am a total newbie in all this stuff.
Do you have knownledge of some great drivers around 5" - 6" for my project?
With the knownledge of Hoffmans Iron Law i guess efficiency around 88dB would be great to achieve the Kickbass with still enough Runtime on around 92Wh Lipo.
What exactly is a tripath AMP?
Sorry for having that many questions.
I am doing this cuz 15l are not tranportable if you dont have a car. I want to carry the box with me when i am for example studying informatics and afterwars wanna meet up with some friends.
Tell me more about Notchfilters pls, I am a total newbie in all this stuff.
Do you have knownledge of some great drivers around 5" - 6" for my project?
With the knownledge of Hoffmans Iron Law i guess efficiency around 88dB would be great to achieve the Kickbass with still enough Runtime on around 92Wh Lipo.
What exactly is a tripath AMP?
Sorry for having that many questions.
Hi Illusion,
I would recommend you the kit from quint-audio with the aurasound ns-3.
QUINT | Kompaktlautsprecher
Small size and a nice sounding speaker system for small budget.
The bass is very nice and more boomy when you put the br-channel blowing to the bottom.
I would recommend you the kit from quint-audio with the aurasound ns-3.
QUINT | Kompaktlautsprecher
Small size and a nice sounding speaker system for small budget.
The bass is very nice and more boomy when you put the br-channel blowing to the bottom.
A PITA is a pain in the ***, something you don't want to do because it's annoying and not handy. If you need something portable, make it smaller. Have a look at the Boominator (MINI) to get a feel of the terms that are used and what the design considerations of a boombox are.
Tripath is (or rather; was) a chipmaker. Their TA202x is suited for portable applications.
Tripath is (or rather; was) a chipmaker. Their TA202x is suited for portable applications.
Hey man, i know what i am doing
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
With those, or comparable i can build up the Speaker in 3 minutes or something. Thats the way for me, i dont want to carry a box full of air.
And those sets lack efficiency :/
Attachments
How are you going to do the electronics and cabling? I really advice you not to do this. Just scale the design down a bit to 8 liters or so. Get some Faital 4FE32's, put them in a 8 liter bassreflex and cross them first order with some dome tweeters if you want. Cheap, not too big, sounds good and has bass to ~70hz.
1) You have to carry around loose bits
2) You can't solder a lot of things because you have to use connectors
3) it won't be a strong construction, even when assembled. Probably won't be airtight too.
4) You can't reduce it so it has no air, because the pieces won't perfectly stack up. Space reduction will be 30 to 50% at best.
5) takes time to set up
6) looks ugly
But in the end it's your own decision.
2) You can't solder a lot of things because you have to use connectors
3) it won't be a strong construction, even when assembled. Probably won't be airtight too.
4) You can't reduce it so it has no air, because the pieces won't perfectly stack up. Space reduction will be 30 to 50% at best.
5) takes time to set up
6) looks ugly
But in the end it's your own decision.
1. Its gonna be carried in a rucksack anyway, maybe lose bits are an advantage since i dont have a big static cube to carry
2. I can aslong as they are fixed to the same Wall. I am an electronic engineer in spe so in that direction i know what i am doing.
3. believe me it will
Not 100% as strong as a usual box but i will be able to stand on it 4. True, but i am confident to save 60% or more, Battery/Charger/Driver have nearly the same height. And cmon 60% volume Saving is hella lot. Just to say we are tricking around Hoffmans Iron Law here
5) Jep, but when you are drinking for an evening around a campfire for example, what is the Problem with 5 minutes set up time (a Campfire / Barbecue / Tent takes more time to set up)
6) it doesnt has to look ugly, i gonna do what i can to let it look like an ordinary boy as much as possible.
So after clearing that, is this driver FOSTEX FF 125 WK - BREITBAND LAUTSPRECHER | eBay
An appropiate choice for the Project?
And what about Bafflestep, i dont understand heck of that :/
Big static tube?
Just set a goal on how big it can be and build a box that big. Don't build a box that's sligthly bigger and have a, with all respect, stupid construction. This is an amazing idea, but it will not work as well in practice as it does in your head.
You're not going to get 60% space reduction. The port and the drivers have to be fixed to one wall, you can't have 'no air'. Possibly 30-50% absolute max.
Having a solid box when you're drinking with friends is key. Imagine your slightly drunk friend unclamping one of the walls and the thing falls apart. It will look cool when assembling, I'll give you that
See the baffle as a mirror. It only reflects sound with a wavelength that's smaller than itself. As frequency gets lower, wavelengths get longer. So at a certain point the waves don't get reflected anymore and they radiate in all directions, so also to the backside. Now the acoustical energy is dispersed and this leaves less bass on the listening side. This can be corrected in many ways though.
Just set a goal on how big it can be and build a box that big. Don't build a box that's sligthly bigger and have a, with all respect, stupid construction. This is an amazing idea, but it will not work as well in practice as it does in your head.
You're not going to get 60% space reduction. The port and the drivers have to be fixed to one wall, you can't have 'no air'. Possibly 30-50% absolute max.
Having a solid box when you're drinking with friends is key. Imagine your slightly drunk friend unclamping one of the walls and the thing falls apart. It will look cool when assembling, I'll give you that
See the baffle as a mirror. It only reflects sound with a wavelength that's smaller than itself. As frequency gets lower, wavelengths get longer. So at a certain point the waves don't get reflected anymore and they radiate in all directions, so also to the backside. Now the acoustical energy is dispersed and this leaves less bass on the listening side. This can be corrected in many ways though.
Big static tube?
Just set a goal on how big it can be and build a box that big. Don't build a box that's sligthly bigger and have a, with all respect, stupid construction. This is an amazing idea, but it will not work as well in practice as it does in your head.
You're not going to get 60% space reduction. The port and the drivers have to be fixed to one wall, you can't have 'no air'. Possibly 30-50% absolute max.
Having a solid box when you're drinking with friends is key. Imagine your slightly drunk friend unclamping one of the walls and the thing falls apart. It will look cool when assembling, I'll give you that
See the baffle as a mirror. It only reflects sound with a wavelength that's smaller than itself. As frequency gets lower, wavelengths get longer. So at a certain point the waves don't get reflected anymore and they radiate in all directions, so also to the backside. Now the acoustical energy is dispersed and this leaves less bass on the listening side. This can be corrected in many ways though.
Well, i am rly confident, let me do my mistake then, i can build a static box if it doesnt work. And dude i dare my friends to touch it
Lets say i fix 5 Walls together from inside with those clamps or however i call em in english. The 6th wall needs a Screwdriver to fix it (but no normal screws tho, tighten them would take too much time). That way it looks like a normal box but is easily detachable.To the space reduction:
Lets say the box is around 30x20x20 cm big inside (will give us 12l Vol.; maybe 10 when packing all that stuff inside). So we have a Driver wich gets 5cm inside the box. We have a BR tube with something around that length if we use the right Diameter. We have a Battery 14x5x5 cm, a Battery Charger (with balancer) with height of 4cm and an AMP board. Now we fit all that onto the Wall with the Driver.
If we detach it, we got 5 Walls being 1.2cm thick and the Wall with the driver an all the electronics, thickness 5cm + 1.2cm. All in all its 6x1.2cm + 5cm = 12.2 cm Thick when transporting it, the box itself would be 20cm + 2x1.2cm = 22.2cm thick. All in all we reduce the used Space to 54,954954% of the original box.
Talking about air which we dont transport the calculation is another one:
We had 12l Volume of the box, the electronics itself need 5x30x20=3000(cm³) = 3(l) of room. Lets say 1l of that is the solid stuff we got (plastic, PCB, Driver Magnet etc.) so we are transporting 2l air when its disassembled. 2l/12l = 1/6 So we save 5/6 or 83.3% of unnessesarily transported air.
I hope you know understand what im talking about
Can you tell me more about the possible Baffle Step compensations?
Tho i guess it wouldnt be the biggest problem since 360° Bass is no Problem for outdoor use, right?
Last edited:
Trial and error. If you want to learn from your mistakes that's fine. This sounds like a fun project anyway.
Cool in theory, but I bet you it won't stack that nice in practice. And even if you manage 50% space reduction; why not make it 50% smaller. A decibel or 2 loss in SPL is not the end of the world. Which external dimensions are you looking to manage?
The often used solution to BS is a BSC circuit, which cuts down on the midrange to match the loss in bass. The brute force solution, also used in the Boominator, is to mount the other driver on the other side. Then you have the mirror effect happenening on both sides, so you have 360 degrees sound. When the wavelengths start to get longer and the bass disperses to the other side it happens on both sides and they fill in eachothers bass loss. The advantage of this is that you don't need to cut down the midrange so you have a theoretical 6db boost compared to a BS corrected monopole.
Cool in theory, but I bet you it won't stack that nice in practice. And even if you manage 50% space reduction; why not make it 50% smaller. A decibel or 2 loss in SPL is not the end of the world. Which external dimensions are you looking to manage?
The often used solution to BS is a BSC circuit, which cuts down on the midrange to match the loss in bass. The brute force solution, also used in the Boominator, is to mount the other driver on the other side. Then you have the mirror effect happenening on both sides, so you have 360 degrees sound. When the wavelengths start to get longer and the bass disperses to the other side it happens on both sides and they fill in eachothers bass loss. The advantage of this is that you don't need to cut down the midrange so you have a theoretical 6db boost compared to a BS corrected monopole.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.